brocki
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Posts posted by brocki
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Good idea.. I hadn't thought of that. But as said above, I did find a chart for a Firestone comparable tire. Interestingly enough, I have been inflating to 50psi loaded with the bike. Chart says I could be setting at 40 for the load carried, and I did go up to the next load number. I will re-adjust and monitor.
Richard, I see your point. But if that was still true, wouldn't you think you could still dig them out somewhere? Some of really do want to do it right. Anyway, I solved my problem
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On 11/30/2020 at 3:11 PM, richard5933 said:, and best I can tell from the it is that you should look for a Supplemental Tire Pressure Information placard which will contain inflation pressures for various loads. Perhaps yours has something similar.
Yeah Richard, I spent quite a long time with the fellow that weighed the truck going through the Owners manual. No luck. I find it rather distasteful that these manufacturers want us to buy their products, and I am NOT knocking any product here, but divorce themselves from helping the user from fear of being held liable.
I did find a Firestone chart through the Escapees/smartweigh program that covered their version of the same tire. If anyone is interested in this chart, just PM me and I will forward a link.
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I just had my toad (09 Ram 1500) weighed on all 4s as we carry a pretty heavy bike in it and I do want to inflate the tires more accurately than my guess. The truck has Michelin Defender tires and I can't find anything on the Michelin web site regarding inflation charts. Now I think I remember several years ago having the same issue for the same reason (same truck but different bike) and Michelin said in a "chat" that they don't publish them anymore. Is my memory wrong, or if not, have the lawyers taken over the whole world? Does anyone out here in our community have a chart for this tire in a 265/70R17?
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OK, I was half correct. I tightened the top and it helped a lot. What I thought was a missing screw on the bottom was just the screw countersunk way down in. It was not and is not missing. So here are some pictures of the top and bottom screws I have been working with. I don't see any others that would either lift the door or lift the whole hinge post. The L brackets you see, I added years ago when this problem started.
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Herman, thanks for the screw tip. I found one at the top that was loose and a matching one at the bottom that is completely missing. I tightened the one at the top and it greatly helped the situation. I will get another screw and put it in and perhaps the problem will be solved.
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On 8/18/2020 at 1:15 PM, hermanmullins said:Is it the door that is dragging or the drip rail? Both can be adjusted. The door by tighting the screws and drip rail by the screw slots.
Herman
As best as I can determine, the door is the part that is sagging so that it drags at the bottom at the opposite side from the hinge.
I'm not sure I know what screws you are referring to. I'll poke around looking for some screws.
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This is not a sliding door. It is a standard swinging door outward.
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This is not a new problem but a constant irritation.
For openers we are in our '07, 40 ft Tiffin Phaeton. The shower door is one of the old flat designs. We have had this design in 3 motor homes from the 90s on up. After a few years they seem to sag toward the handle side and then of course they grind against the lower track and get very difficult to open or close. Has anyone figured out a fix for this? Looking at the door, one does not see a visible sag, but there obviously is one. Looking for help (if there is any) for this, other than replacement.
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Thanks all for the feedback. I tried the furnace and the water heater, all in different parts of the RV and as expected, no ignition.. As I have no experience with propane devices or systems, we are going to agree with Manholt and let the experts take it from here. We are also under some time constraint in that the owner has to leave a week from now for the east coast with a sick daughter for medical treatment. Everything else has checked out and been tested fine so when this issue is corrected he is ready to go. Thanks all for the "direction".
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Regulator........... never thought of that. Not something we can really check out. I thought I would try to fire the water heater (it's on the other side of the MH to make sure we don't just have a pinched line crossing over in the unit. I can open the bleed valve a little and make sure I get vapor out of it.
Thanks. Back to work.
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A good friend bought a 2001 Isata Class B motor home. It is in very good shape and all indications are it was very well cared for and maintained. As they are new to RVing, we are helping them get it ready for travel and checking all the systems and explaining their operation to them.
Have encountered one problem. The gauge says the propane tank is full and the owner said he had it filled earlier this spring but we are getting very low flow at the stove and refer. It does NOT seem to have a manual master valve but an electric valve with the switch right near the tank. We know that we are turning on the correct valve/switch because with the valve off we get no flow. But with it "on"we are not getting enough vapor to maintain a flame at the stove nor enough to sustain ignition in the refer. I find no manual gauge for the propane tank, only the gauge panel which indicates the tank is full as the previous owner claimed.
Are we missing something here?
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Got it guys, thanks. BTW, looks like Doug responded also. I will follow his request.
Thanks again.
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On 5/17/2020 at 6:38 AM, hermanmullins said:If you haven't or don't remember getting an email from FMCA send a email to Doug Uhlenbrock and ask to have your certificate sent.
duhlenbrock@fmca.com.
Each certificate is numbered.
Herman
Herman, the email you gave me as written was "rejected" as non valid email address. Based on his name, it looks right. Any ideas?
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Thanks to all for the response. No, I don't remember getting any communication regarding the aftermath of the cancellation. We were registerd for Tucson but had no plans for Lincoln.
Herman, thanks. I will contact Doug Uhlenbrock. I'm sure that will clear it up.
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Well I may get yellled at or perhaps laughed at but: What is the disposition of all our reservations for the last cancelled spring convention? I have a fair amount of money floating around that I would like to know where it has landed.
At the request of the web site, I have emailed twice at least a month apart but got no replies. I have found that "due to Covid etc" is the current excuse for no communication from many. Anyway, I'm certainly not implying anything improper here, but I less than happy by the lack of communication.
If I just missed a big announcement, please fill me in. They do and have had my correct email address
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On 2/5/2020 at 5:39 AM, hermanmullins said:Glad you are on the road to fixing the door.
IMHO If it had been me I would have checked with as many RV dealers as I could. There have been so many Norcold 1200 replaced someone might have had a door you could buy from a scrapped unit.
Herman
Yeah, you're right I suppose. But I admit to the fact that operating out of one door kind of made out patience a little thin.
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Hmmmmm. Makes me wonder about my 2007 Cat C7 diesel. We travel all over the country as full timers and so far all is (running) well. From a practical standpoint, it doesn't seem we have much control over content in these fuels. If I am in California or Michigan, when we need fuel, we need fuel.
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After looking at much (and many) utube videos, all for other than 1200 series refers, I have given up on "fixing" and ordered a door and bushing on line. Should have the parts in about a week and as I have had the door off once, yuk yuk, it shouldn't be to bad switching the hinge portions and reinstalling. Got the door for about $425.00 on line. A little more than half of what Norcold wanted.
I'll lit you all know how this turns out.
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3 hours ago, RayIN said:The video Kaysmith posted is not a Norcold 12xx series. The 12xx has a plastic bushing directly in the door bottom instead of being outside the door. When the plastic door frame breaks, there are two choices buy new or have the plastic welded back in position.
If the actual door is not broken, only the hinge, Amazon has hinge repair parts: https://www.amazon.com/Norcold-625129-Door-Repair-Models/dp/B004RCP93U?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B004RCP93U The steel hinge pin is not included.
FWIW, Norcold 12xx parts list.
My Norcold 1200LRIM is now 20 years old, if anything expensive breaks I will buy a new Norcold 1200LRIM. I figure it''s life cycle is complete.
I have seen this kit other places but can't wrap my head around how it would apply as the plastic IN my door is already broken. All steel pieces are still OK in my case.
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Yup. Wife opened the right refer door and it fell off. Fortunately not on her foot. However a glass jar of Thai peanut sauce did not survive.
Found out from the web this has been happening for a decade. But haven't been able to find anyone who has a good workaround for a fix to prevent replacing the whole door.
The metal parts of the lower hinge is fine but the two little screws on the door portion of the hinge just screw in the plastic of the door. Obviously that plastic failed. I won't go on a rant which I could easily do about now.
I have tried to search our archives to no avail. I will also need the little plastic bushing that acts as the bearing but that is a listed part with Norcold and can be purchased. But there must be a way to repair that door to prevent having to buy another at an outrageous price. Any help here would be appreciated.
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On 12/13/2018 at 10:02 AM, ckcarpenter42 said:One of the Member Engagement Survey respondents suggested a feature be added to the Forum and would allow members to receive weekly emails of forum posts. The good news is that functionality already exists. All a user needs to do is to click on the Follow tab at the top right part of the screen for the topic category.
OK. Back years ago I used to GET a "digest" of new postings. Is this what you are referring to? I would like to get that again for unread content.
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On 2/8/2019 at 10:44 AM, WILDEBILL308 said:That is an interesting statement. Can you elaborate?
Bill
I bought them over 2 different times times from a dealer in Grand Rapids MI. I remember him saying this to me. I believe his meaning was that they were not designed to give a smooth ride but to be a hard working tire. I found that to be true and I never had any trouble with them and sold the unit in 2012 for the MH we have now.
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We rarely boondock as the Mrs. doesn't feel comfortable for whatever reason. I just watched the link mentioned above and think it is a very good primer. As the fellow says, "most of it is just common sense." Thanks for the post.
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We used Hankook tires on a Winnebago Adventurer in the mid 2000 teens. They were good stabile tires but they rode hard. After all they are really dump truck tires. I would say, at the price, I would buy them again.
Sunpass and EZPASS
in Type A motorhomes
Posted · Report reply
HOLY COW!!!! At the risk of sounding like the old curmudgeon, I have read, over the years different discussions regarding the EZ pass or whatever one is being discussed at that moment.
Bottom line, we have been on the road , full time, for almost 9 years and have had for the most part, no problem avoiding most toll roads. The few we do encounter, are a pain but not enough to try to navigate different automated systems for as much as we roam. If the states can ever get it together and settle on one system, I suppose I would willingly join. I don't really see that happening though.
One question for those of you that use the pass system in your RVs, do you find the toll roads get you where you want to go that much faster or more direct?