Strats

It affected all turn signal functions including the tow vehicle. The size is a standard flasher / hazard approximately 1" round that is interchangeable with the hazard flasher that is seen in the picture. It's a Must fuse X lead 20 amp max flasher. I replaced the original hazard flasher that was green with the more expensive Novita metal one because I was told it may control both the flashers and the turn signals., Obviously it didn't control both but I had it as a spare and used it to replace the turn signal flasher when I found it. I will get a couple spares for the future. The only good thing about the whole turn signal issue was that I learned about every square inch and nook and cranny of the coach searching for the flasher. I pulled relays and now know which one is needed to run the engine in the back passenger side next to the inverter and got a spare for that also.

Well after several months of looking around and checking the wiring with my probe, I was ready to take the coach into Freightliner because I'm leaving on a trip out west in a couple weeks and I don't like traveling with out turn signals. I have received a lot of help on forums, you-tube and here. I found a Freightliner help phone number that the previous owner of my coach wrote on the back of one of the manuals and thought I would give it a shot even though my local Freightliner couldn't or wouldn't help. I called and talked to a gentleman on a Sunday afternoon and had a 2 minute conversation that went as follows. What year coach? Do the emergency flashers work which they did. Is the round hazard flasher under the dash or outside on the firewall above the generator. It is outside on the firewall. He said to find the fuse panel that the flasher is in and follow the wires that feed that fuse panel and within the first 8" there should be another flasher that looks identical to the other but spliced into the wires and might even be in the black flex wire protector but will be with 8". I have been on top of that area 50 times but never looked in the main group of covered wires and I found it and fixed it in 5 minutes! I've been researching and looking for months to resolve this easy problem so thank you very much to the Freightliner Help Line 1-800-385-4357. Yes it is dirty and I need to fasten it all back right, this was temporary while searching for the problem. It was in the large conduit of wires and hidden out of sight. I like to give the solution to issues I ask about on forums so future Holiday Rambler Endeavor owners (Monaco) who have the same turn signals not working issues have a reference to go to with a quick, easy and inexpensive way to fix the problem without the frustration I have had. Fixed and done! dirty

Thanks Bill

Thanks for the responses, sounds great!

We are heading West also. Is Route 66 worth the additional drive time. Driving a 38' HR Endeavor DP with a toad. 15 days to make the drive. Already went through Yellowstone a few years ago so we want to stay around the Grand Canyon and Brice Canyon area as mentioned above. Does anyone have an itinerary they used with good RV parks along the way and at the GC. I can boondock for 3-4 days if necessary but overnight is preferred between stays at the RV parks. Any must see's and stays. I too have some back issues, 3-5 mile hikes at the most.

Do you have a email address or contact information.

Hey all, it's me again. Another tranny question. I'm painting some of the plastic molding pieces around the front windshield and other area's around the dash that have yellowed. When I took off the panel that houses the computer and shift control (6 speed push button with mode button) I noticed a cut ORANGE wire. I'm not sure if this is intentional or was cut during installation or during a repair. The computer wasn't mounted, just sitting inside the panel. Can anyone tell me if I should hook it back up. If it was done intentionally I don't want to fry something. Everything is working properly that I know of except turn signals and reverse lights. Shifts fine and lights up at night. Any idea's. I'm thinking about leaving as is!

I have never paid for a repair on any of my cars or my house. I do everything myself. I have a 1990 Mustang 2-door LX Sport coupe convertible with a 349 Stroker motor with 150 shot of nitrous that pushes 500HP at the crank. I rebuilt the motor and swapped the auto trans to a Tremek 5 speed with a centerforce HD clutch that runs the quarter mile in the 10's. I have a 85 red Corvette that I built the motor also, it has about 475HP to the rear wheels with a 700r tranny with a 2800 RPM stall converter that runs in the 11's so I can turn a wrench, I even installed a few mods on my Hemi 300C. I guess you figured out I like HP. Diesels are just new to me but I'll get the hang of it. I was hit on my motorcycle 15 years ago and broke my back and neck so my body will feel the lift pump replacement for a week or two. I'm limited on what I can do at 55 with a 95 year old body! The cold weather makes it worse! Thanks again. The Air Dog adds I saw with the air separator was genius. Since I had 6 filters I decided to wait until next time. I just want this coach to run good, I have plenty of fast toys!

I don't like when people ask for help and then they don't post the results of what they did to repair. I did a lot of research on the different lift pumps that were recommended such as Air Dog and Fass. Today was a nasty, cold, freezing rain day here in Cincy and I was tired of watching youtube video's of how to's so I went to the coach, turned on the furnace and a basketball game to see what was needed for the lift pump replacement. I was warm, nice and dry and the next thing I knew I had the old pump out and had a decision to make. Since I already bought a half dozen fuel filters that I didn't want to waste and was in the repair groove, I decided to put a stock lift pump back in to see if the VP44 was good or bad. Autozone had the lift pump with a lifetime warranty for 138.00 so what the heck. I'll upgrade the lift when I do the VP44. I installed the new lift pump, cleaned up the motor and it's now running better than ever. No bucking, no lag, climbs steep hills, good throttle response and fine at WOT. VP44 seems to be fine. I know these pumps aren't the best pumps but the peace of mind and the 4 hours of labor to replace it was well worth it. I can upgrade it next time in less than 2 hours since I'm familiar with it now so thanks again for all the help. Now back to figuring out the turn signal issue! Regards, Strats

Thanks for all the help. I will keep you informed as I move forward weather permitting. I'm glad it started going out just a few miles from home after a 2,500 mile trip with no tow needed. Looking forward to traveling this summer. If it was running I would be heading to a warmer climate this weekend! Thanks again. Sorry this thread covered more than tranny codes.

Mine looks more like this lift pump. More of a upside down bell look. I'm embarrassed how dirty this motor is!

I though the K&N would be a good idea, I learn more about diesels every day. I located the lift pump and will post a pic when I figure out how to post it, pretty greasy right there. Is it possible that the lift pump is bad and the VP44 is OK. The lift pump looks easy enough to replace, the VP44 doesn't look too difficult with the exception of the location under the bed and getting to it. I'm not sure about getting it from underneath. I will wait until the snow melts and the temps get above freezing. If I just replace the lift pump, can it be damaged by not doing the VP44 at the same time or if one is bad, both are bad?

I got it started today. Took a few tries but started and felt like it was ok. I drove it around the parking lot a couple times and then it died again. idled it back to my spot. I was hoping it had an air lock, I don't think so now! Again, thanks for your help. What is the part number for the Air Dog and VP44. I would like to up grade. It has a Banks intake and a few banks gauges but the previous owner said it was disconnected because of Cummins warranty on a head gasket but I would like to increase the fuel. I did put a K&N air filter and would be curious what it would take to hook the Banks up again, possibly a larger turbo also. I'm not sure what performance mods can be done!

It's barely running now. It won't idle long and definitely won't drive. I drained a little fuel out of the filter which made things worse.

Did you do the work yourself or have it done. If you don't mind what was the price either way without being to bold to ask Is that the pump that is timed with the motor timing?

Dodge Fits Cummins 12 valve P7100 Diesel Fuel Injection Pump 94-98 Is that the fuel pump on top of the lift? $794.95 Buy It Now Free Shipping Is that the fuel pump ontop of the fuel lift

Can I take the fuel lift off and take it to the Cummins shop on the other side of town or should I just go ahead and replace it it. This 1998 rig only had 68,000 miles on it but I don't want to just start replacing thing just to replace unless the part can go bad from sitting too long. 2,500.00 installed? What do you think the part is if picked up at Cummins and I install it would cost? Cummins is closed on the weekends. I would like to increase horespower when I can so is there a larger lift pump or performance lift pump I can install to help add power without changing injectors. I did buy a million mile Flowmaster cleanable non oil performance air intake filter. Can the exhaust break be taken of and cleaned up and be tested on the bench or is it common to just go bad and stick in the closed position. To be clear, It has a fuel pump and a fuel lift. If I understand, the lift comes up the frame on the freight-liner chasis and into the filter. Can I make a gauge in the bottom of the filter to check pressure where the drain valve is? Is the fuel pump located in front of the lift. Can I put a pressure gauge inline after the fuel pump and read the pressure. It should read how many pounds? I think you said 8. Are the pumps rebuidable or just the lifts. Thanks again.

Yes it ran better briefly when I replaces the filters. After a few miles it started cutting out again so I replaced the first filter thinking it may have caught some of the contaminated fuel in the tank it if had some. I have the filter I replaced it with the first time for less than 50 miles and the original filter from which I purchased the coach. I'm located in Cincinnati Ohio just a few miles away from corporate FMCA. I didn't realize it had a fuel pump and a fuel lift. I can just replace either or both if need be. I just don't want to start chasing my tail and not resolving the issue or issues!. I figured fuel and air to make it run. Thanks for your help!

37'-1998 Holiday Rambler. Freightliner chasis. Cummins ISB275 Turbo Diesel pusher with a Allison 6 speed. Mechanical. Both filters brand new. Actually replaced the front filter twice thinking it may have gummed up from some bad gas. Smoke looks more blue than white. When giving gas in first gear it doesn't want to go and just bogs out and starts to smoke. When in neutral it will rev up but when in gear it doesn't want to go. periodically it will go a little but then bog down again. I replaced the intake air filter also. Neither filter looked packed with junk. Yes it has an exhaust brake and it seemed to work fine when it ran. Starts right up and idles fine. just under load in gear it bogs down. I can't drive it on the road. It's either not getting enough fuel or I guess the exhaust brake could be locking closed. What is the fix with the brake, can it be bypassed or how is it checked? It almost seems like the ECU isn't communicating right. What would you do if it was yours. I really can't drive it to a mechanic and I do all my own work on my cars, just new to diesels and I don't have the cummins engine code reader. I have driven this over 3000 mile and it started on the way back from Florida. It seems not to be getting gas and thats why I started with the filters,

Not running right again. New fuel filters and air filter. Code 5--0. Barely going through the gears. It will die out and smoke blue then pick up again. Not really able to drive it on the road. I have been testing it in my storage area. Any idea's. ECU. When the batteries are turned off during storage, will the ECU reset or do you actually have to disconnect the battery terminals?

Can anyone tell me what code 50 is?

Thank you sir!

My coach has a fault code of O - - L 7 - - 0. I looked up the code on the fault code sheet for the 3000 MH transmission and it states to reset the ECU. Is this correct? I turned off both battery banks and that didn't reset it. I also disconnected the positive side on the engine batteries and it still didn't reset. Am I looking at the right code and if so how do I reset the ECU.

Thanks, I appreciate it. We really are enjoying the coach but just have a few glitches to take care of but was expecting to have to do a few things to get it the way I want it.