Posts posted by jc21014
On 5/17/2020 at 11:12 PM, dons2346 said:
To the OP.
Have you thought about having a virtual campout? There is a program/service called ZOOM that you could use to hold a virtual campout or whatever. Participants have to download the program to their computer and then someone has to issue an invitation to join the "campout" . A link is sent to those invited to the campout and there can be any number invited. At the appointed time and date, everyone can log in and they will be on video and audio.
We use ZOOM to hold EB meetings and workshops on a regular basis
What is the cost to use this program?
23 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said:
I don't see any reason you couldn't polish everything up with some scotch brite and have it working just fine. Maybe a little tweaking of the contacts to be shure you have a good contact.
The 1st and 3rd contacts are somewhat brittle and partially eaten away for some reason so that is not an option. Right now, the main cord reel is direct wired into the Progressive EMS and looped into the electrical compartment when not in use. RV Cord reel manufactures to not sell repairable parts to the public but have been known to repair the problem(s) if the owners sends it to them.
After arriving back to the KC area, I disassembled the cord reel and found what the problem was. Two of the 3 metal contacts were badly pitted/corroded as was the metal cylinder they were in contact with. Will most likely not replace the electric cord reel with a new one but continue to store it in the electric bay as there has been no problems since wiring directly to the Progressive EMS switch. Thanks everyone for your comments/suggestions.
Called Newmar and they show the orig reel that was installed in 2010 was a Glendining brand so the 1st owner had it replaced for unknown reasons with a Shoreline brand. Was able to find a mobile tech yesterday who responded to the cg we are at and he did remove the reel and install it directly into the Progressive EMS system. He has done this a number of times in the past as the contacts can become pitted and cause various electrical issues. Will run the cord this way until we get back to the KC area then decide if I will have a new cord reel setup installed. He also checked our Oasis system as it had a Heater Module Fault Light come on and the combustion fan light was blinking. He checked the system out then did a reset. Every fired up and is still working as I write this post. If it occurs again, then I might consider replacing the combustion fan.
In addition to my power cord electric giving me fits, the Oasis system gave an error message yesterday as we prepared to leave the cg in upper Michigan. the error message is: heater Module Fault red led is on. This apparently means the combustion fan has shot craps according to the Oasis tech I talked with.
No diesel burner but according to the tech, I can still get hot water for dishes and showers by turning both ac elements on then off when done. This really sucks and is becoming a little annoying.
In regards to the cord reel issue, I managed to find a number of past posts in Irv2 where others had similar issues due to the contacts becoming pitted. Seems most either replaced the reels, as they are not repairable or dumped the reel and wired the power cord direct to their ems system and coiled the cord inside the compartment after use.
11 hours ago, RayIN said:
jc, could it have been one of these threads?:
If you are considering buying a used reel: https://rvaccessories.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/f/rvelectrical.pl
The posts I remember seeing were in the last 6 months or so and caught my eye because this was the first cord reel that we had every had on a rv. I usually read what I call the big 4 rv forums; Irv2, rvnet, escapees, and fmca. I'm thinking it was most likely Irv2 or rv net but haven't found it yet.
Update. We left the CG in Holland, Michigan this at 11a this morning. Pryor to turning off the pedestal 50a breaker, I reached in and started to pull out about (3) ft more of power cord from the reel. Heard the transfer switch click and lost ac power to the coach. Quit pulling on the cord and the ac kicked on at 20 seconds as it should. Me thinks that something(wire connections/brushes) in the cord reel itself might be the culprit. We are now at a cg close to Mackinac Island for 4 days or so. Plugged in with no problems. I will check the cord reel for loose connections or try and find a mobile rv tech if one is available here. I know my limitations when it comes to electricity. I remember reading a discussion on another forum(?) about cord reels causing electical issues. Now to find which forum.
20 hours ago, RayIN said:
I agree with richard5933. In addition, I have a few questions. Have you tested or had the entire 50A cord tested for high resistance and fluctuations under load- megger test? Has the MH main entrance panel been inspected for loose connections, over-heated bus bars, etc?
My tech friend and I have checked the replacement plug connections, ems/surge protection box connections and transfer switch connections. He also has checked the cord itself when I took it to the shop where he works.
23 hours ago, richard5933 said:
You replaced the plug, EMS, and transfer switch.
Have you confirmed tight connections where the power lines connect to the breaker panel from the transfer switch? A loose connection there could be responsible for everything downstream.
If that doesn't work, I'd be following all the main conductors to ensure tight connections wherever you can.
That is one thing that I will do in 1-2 days. We spent a week in Shipshewana, Ind and now are in Holland, Mich, leaving tomorrow for St Ignace, Mich/Mackinac Island for 5 days. Have to admit this should have been checked for tightness but life has got in the way. At another posters suggestion who has had (2) previous Newmars with similar problems, I will check the neutral wire connection at the breaker box for tightness as that is what caused his similar problem in the past.
52 minutes ago, sstgermain said:
It sounds like the progressive dynamics ems is bad. Did you try to bypass it for a day or 2 in a campground and see if it still does it.
The Progressive EMS & Transfer Switch were replaced with new last Sept 2018. The current EMS was bypassed the latter part of June 2019 for several days with no problems. Had it rewired back before we left Missouri for the Newton, Ia park.
Last August 2018, we traded our 2004 Newmar DS Diesel Pusher for a 2010 Newmar Dutch Aire DP. In the following approximate time frame, 8/10/18-10/15/18, we travelled to no less than 8+- cgs, private & state but mainly private and encountered approx. "26" instances where ac power would shutdown for anywhere from 30 seconds-2 minutes. 99% of the time, the Progressive Dynamic hardwired system would show error message of E4, which is Line 1-Low Voltage. About the third week of Sept, I replaced the Progressive Dynamic EMS & the Transfer with new and noticed the 50A plug showed burn marks on one of the prongs and was loose where it went into the rubber plug itself. Headed towards Tx on about 10/15/19 and stopped at the dealer where purchased for a fridge exchange to a Samsung and had them replace the plug. The shutdowns seemed to stop after the plug was replaced with only error messages showing up after as described. Arrived in southern Tx for the winter and only had (2) issues from 10/20/18-4/26/19. The first was error code E2-Open ground and the second was the E4- low voltage-L2. Left and headed back north on approx. 4/27/19 and stopped at 4-5 CG's with no issues until 6/22/19 at which time we had (1) E4 error message. On 6/25/17, we had an incident of no power when we plugged in and ran generator for 2 hrs before trying the pedestal again. This time we had power. Took to an rv shop and had it checked and of course every thing ran fine. The tech talked with Progressives techs and every thing check ok when he ran there tests. On 6/30/19, no power when plugged in at a KOA in Newton, Ia, Tried another newer pedestal (2) hrs later and the power came on in the coach. In Shipshewana, Ind from 7/1/19-7/8/19 and had one incident where the 50A pedestal breaker tripped when I plugged a small vac into the 20A pluin of the pedestal. Reset and everything ran ok. We are at a cg n Holland, Michigan at this time and have had (1) E4 message only.
Any rv electronic savvy people have any idea(s) what might be causing this fiasco?
Last Aug 2018, we traded our 04 Newmar DSDP for a 2010 Newmar DutchAire DP. Part of the trade involved replacing the front windshield which was cracked. We then left after several days and left on several trips until the latter part of Sept.2018. We then began gradually working our way back towards where we bought the MH for replacement of our rv fridge with the Samsung counter depth one prior to heading to south Tx for the winter. Several days before arrival at the dealer, I noticed a vertical water leak approximately in front of the pass seat. The "glue" used by the dealer apparently did not setup properly so they redid the top rubber seal/moulding that goes the top of the windshield. We then left for Tx and (1)week after arrival, the seal came loose again. Has anyone called Guardian Glass, Safelite or some other company that works on class A windshields and had them respond to fix a "seal" problem only. Would prefer to get this redone before leaving south Tx on 5/3/19. Any comments plse.
11 hours ago, jleamont said:
Yes, I replaced all of ours with Dimmable LED. Bought them from this company;
Thanks for the link. Will be checking what they have to offer.
Our current MH, 2010 Newmar Dutch Aire 4304, has (45) ceiling flush mount puck lights which have the 12v 10w G4 base halogen bulb in each one. I would like to "gradually" replace these with the equivalent LED bulb. Anyone with the same setup done this or could possibly furnish a part # for the LED bulb. Halogens have always seemed to hot for my taste.
3 hours ago, jleamont said:
Here it is in Stainless steel finish. Traditional style with freezer on top, still larger than what you currently have.
2 hours ago, jleamont said:
I recently read Samsung was having problems leaking and having problems locating repair vendors in certain areas. There are quite a few of them out there and on here with NO issues, but it is something to consider when deciding what to use.
I have the GE15.5 in ours in place of the Norcold 1200 series. It was chosen because it is used in an RV application from the factory on some Fleetwood models and it didn't require cabinet or inverter or battery alterations.
That was several of the things that I also noticed folks were complaining about on the Home Depot site in their evaluations. Do you have the model # of your 15.5 GE fridge plse? Is yours the French Door Counter Depth?
About 3-4 weeks ago, we traded our 2004 Dutch Star DP and purchased a 2010 Newmar Dutch Aire Model 4304 DP from Motor Homes of Texas in Nacogdoches, Tx. It came with the double door SS Norcold 1200 series rv fridge which I admit is working relatively well. I have not been a supporter of them for some time nor do I trust them. We are scheduled to have it replaced by MH of TX on Oct 15 with the Samsung SS 17.5 cu ft French Door Counter Depth model RF18HFENBSR. Our other choice was a GE 18.6 cu ft French Door Counter Depth model GWE19JSLSS @ $500 more. Over the past several years when the big push started with folks to replace their rv fridges with residential ones, Samsung was mentioned frequently as a choice. Reader comments on the Home Depot website for "both" is all over the board. What have members of this forums experienced reliability wise if the have changed to either the Samsung or GE models I mentioned? Good, bad,???
My internet provider/equipment:
Time Warner/Spectrum-Technicolor modem/router combo, Windows 10 Pro, all software and drivers were/still kept updated, Ethernet cable replaced.
Late last summer/early fall about 4-6 weeks pryor to leaving for our winter spot, I started having the following error messages show on the Dell 17 inch laptop screen using both Ethernet and wifi connections.
1. (90% of the time)"Your not connected to a network"(would usually self correct within 3-5 seconds if not would hit the F5-refresh key.
2. (8% of the time)"Can't reach this page"(would usually self correct as above)
3. (2% of the time) "XXX.com website not responding"(would also self correct as above.
Called Time Warner/Spectrum and they sent a so called tech out who couldn't find anything wrong.
Left for the winter in Oct and used a Verizon Jetpack with the same laptop for internet and did not receive these messages. Arrived home several weeks ago, reconnected to the Technicolor modem/router combo and the same error message started within 3-4 hours.
Called Time Warner/Spectrum and they again sent a "tech" out. He reportedly replaced several outside/inside cable connection. Within 1-2 hrs after leaving, error messages started again.
I connected to the Jetpack several days ago and have "not" had one error message.
6 hours ago, glsponchos said:
My wife and I are brand new to RV'ing, as owners anyway. We actually pick up our RV tomorrow for maiden overnight trip. We have owned large boats before, and camped for years in truck campers. I love this site and appreciate all the experience that is being conveyed in the forums. I need to have some work done to my coach to support my towable, 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland. I understand I need to add auxiliary brakes and am considering the Air Force One system. My question is, what do folks think of service (Maintenance and Installation) performed by Camping World? Specifically the store in Indy. I've heard some negative, but my parents were RV'ers and I remember them using them all the time.
Absolutely and unequivocally NO on buying/or having anything done at "any" Camping World" location. To much valuable equipment at stake to take a chance.
Additionally, one of the things that I believe would be "important" for this thread would be comments/descriptions from users on how their residential fridges were secured when placing inside the area previously occupied by a rv fridge. You should not put them in an area without good anchoring.
I agree with the previous post about tire replacement as mh tires will mostly age out before they wear out. Looks in this case can/will be very deceptive and damage from a possible blowout can result in unbelievable expense. Although the Michelin Tire program offered through this site is admirable and does offer some $ savings, there are other acceptable replacements at noticeably less cost. We use Hankooks on our class A but others to consider would be, Yokohama, Bridgestone, Sampson. I have found these to be usually $300 +- less than Goodyear /Michelin.
I would, at minimum, have the existing tires examined if not already done so, by a dealer who mounts such tires, replace the (2) fronts, weigh your mh at a reputable scale such as a CAT scale, and make sure the rear tire are properly inflated. The pressure shown/recommended on a lot stickers in mhs are, in my opinion to low, as they are wanting the ride to be soft/smooth? Our tires have 120psi @ cold on the sidewall but I run 110psi in the front and 100-105psi in the rear.
Start budgeting now for the remaining rear tires as they should definitely be replaced in the spring at the latest. Another thing to seriously consider in the near future is a TPMS(keeps track of your tries for pressure, air less, temp, etc). You might give the one is this link a look when convenient. http://www.tiretraker.com/ One other thing, budget, budget, budget as the beast will need to be fed periodically will the green stuff ($$$), but they are still a lot of fun.
Just curious but how many run hours are shown on the generator? They should be run regularly and can be problematic if not done.
Unbelievable. I bet the "pucker" factor on that was pretty high.
Plans for rallies amid Covid 19 pandemic
in Chapters, Chapter Rallies
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Got it. Thanks.