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Well I wonder if its any good and how much it costs?

Hello, on my 2005 Dynasty the ac was low on refrigerant and I charged it up but the hydraulic cooling fan isn't cutting in when the high side pressure goes up and the high pressure cut out will engage and shut the compressor down and it continues the do this. If I put the fan into failsafe mode by unhooking the module the fan runs continuously and the ac works good. I need to know where to find a wiring diagram or where the fuse or relay is for it or if someone else has had this problem, what was the issue with yours? I just found the problem and it needs a new cooling fan control module, part number is 1090822 and its made by Sauer-Danfoss but not having much luck finding one, apparently its made out of unobtainiam.... Let me know if anyone knows where I can find one please.

We are planning a trip starting in Manitoba and traveling west to British Columbia Vancouver and have been booking places to stay in Canada but no one recognizes FMCA for discounts, so I guess it must be just a USA thing. I'm wondering if there is a campground guide or a list of places that do recognize FMCA members or a trip planning guide as I'm pretty green with FMCA. I understand that by having a membership it gives me towing and roadside assistance is this correct and what are the limitations on it?

When I bought my coach I noticed the cooling fan kept cutting in and out randomly and found that if I wiggled the harness going into the cooling fan control module it would cut in and out, so I thought maybe a broken wire inside the insulation but that wasn't it, I found the problem was inside the module and when I checked the price of it I almost croaked so I thought I have to try and repair it. I first went at it from the underside and cut out the hard rubber that was poured in to protect the module circuit board and to keep people like me out. I could see the loose wire in the circuit board but wasn't able to solder it from this side, so I thought ok I know where the failed spot is, so I turned it over and very carefully drilled a large hole through the aluminum case and could plainly see the loose wire in the circuit board. I then proceeded to solder it in properly and then filled the hole in with (right stuff gasket maker/silicone) and after it hardened I plugged it in and it worked fine and has for three years now. I just thought I had to share this to try and help someone else out as I believe its probably a pattern failure problem.

Well if I don't use jack stands to hold the Coach up then how would you get under it?

Herman are you saying to spray the entire outside of it down before taking it apart to clean it?

My front air suspension will drop right down overnight, so I lifted it up as high as it will go and then sprayed down the airbags, lines, fittings and I found the solenoid 6 pack bubbling from between the solenoid and the base it mounts to. I ordered the o-ring seal kit for it and will be replacing them as soon as the parts arrive and I need to know if anyone here has had the same problem and is there any tips, tricks or problems you have ran into while changing them? I plan on lifting it as high as it goes, put the safety stands under it and lower it down onto them and drain all the air out of the system and take it apart. I have included a short video of the leak as well. IMG_7181.m4v

No I have the aqua hot heater off.

Well thats what I was kinda thinking because all that stuff has to get its power from somewhere.

Well after going through and checking every wire connection for looseness, in the ATS and in the breaker boxes and then blowing out the ATS relay contacts I then went and plugged into a 50 amps service everything worked fine. I then plugged into a 30 amp service and everything was good but the rear a/c would turn on and off due to too much load on the 30 amp circuit which is normal but if I ran the front or rear a/c separately it worked just fine. I'm not sure what I did to fix the problem but I think blowing out the relay fixed it as there must have been something in the contacts, either that or it temporarily fixed itself and the problem will come back again. I watched the monitor to see how much leg 1 and leg 2 were drawing for amperage and I'm not sure how things are split up and what runs on what. I have taken some pictures to show you guys. I thought the front two a/c units ran on leg one and the rear on leg 2 but I"m not sure now.

Rich I tested the resistance across the L1 L2 and L3 circuits when closed and it was zero ohms, all the wires look good inside the box, both ends of the shore power cable are good and the resistance is also good, I bought a new 50-30 amp adapter to try as well, the 104 volts was measured using the neutral wire, I removed the a/c panel box covers and checked all connections and they were tight.

Well I can go to a campground just outside of town and plug it in to see what happens.

Rich, I don"t know the a/c BTU's and I never tried to run fans only, no breakers kick out, just the ATS keeps kicking in and out on 15 or 30 amp, not sure what the L1 & L2 resistance is. I did try another 30 amp plug in at another campground which had 110 volts to no avail. I haven't checked the resistance across the points but 104 volts was to the neutral as I believe thats what L2 is because when I was online it told me to test it from L1 to L2 then L2 to L3. I did check all connections in the ATS box and they are all tight. Now are you saying to check the circuit breaker connections inside the RV in the breaker boxes? I got another 50-30 amp adapter to try to no avail, I also measured resistance of my shore power cord and got 2.4 ohms on all the cables, so thats good to.

We were camping last weekend on the hottest week of the year and the ATS (auto transfer switch) kept kicking out every 30-40 seconds but only with the a/c on. The coach has a 50 amp system, three a/c units and was plugged into a 30 amp shore power plug in. I do not try to run them all on 30 amps its either the front or the back. I just ended up shutting the a/c's off and everything else seemed to work normal. I started the Onan 10k generator and they all ran perfectly fine with no issues. When I got home I plugged the shore power cord into my garage 15 amp plug and the a/c came on and the ATS was cutting in and out exactly the same as it did when it was plugged into the 30 amp service because I had forgotten to shut the a/c off after driving home and running the generator. So in my eyes it seems to be doing exactly the same thing plugged into a 15 amp service as it did when plugged into the 30 amp. My surge protector showed that there was 104 volts at the campground plug in and I took the cover off the ATS box and the voltage from L1 to L2 was 104 and L2 to L3 was the same while at the campground. So I'm looking a little advise here if anyone can help me, I'm a licensed automotive tech so I do have a good understanding of how stuff works. If I had to guess its only getting 15 amps to the coach???

I did talk to Source and it is $1,500. - $2,000. to make a new cooler for me. I did call Monaco about the use of full synthetic ATF and the guy there said it shouldn't make any difference if I use Synthetic fluid, so I did and changed the hydraulic filter as well. I was looking in the manual for fluid capacity and in fine print it said (if using in sub zero temperatures to change hydraulic fluid to arctic blue fluid or it may cause oil cooler damage. I couldn't find any such fluid anywhere so I just used the full synthetic ATF and all is well with the repaired cooler.

No it just blew out from extreme cold and pressure

I want to know if its ok to use full synthetic ATF instead of regular Dex 3 ?

Well we are almost ready to leave for Arizona and I ran the aqua hot to warm up the engine to 70 F and then started it at -15 F and it was a little hard to start but it did and then a red stop light came on and I went to check to see what happened and the hydraulic oil cooler blew and shot oil everywhere . So I too the cooler out and took it to the rad shop and they said a guy with a MonacO was just in there the other day with exactly the same problem. I changed the fluid about 8000 miles ago and it called for Dex 3 ATF but I was thinking of changing it over to full synthetic ATF so this doesn't happen again and I know I shouldn't be leaving in this temp but I'm freezing my can off and need to get out of here. Also where can I buy a new one to have on hand?

Ok thats good to know I can turn the AH off when driving. I probably wont have a spot to plug in at night so I will run the AH on diesel. FYI I ran the AH today for 9 hours with the temp set at 65 F inside with only the front zone and basement on and the temp outside was 0 F and it was still going strong just on the batteries.

Herman I agree with you 100% lol. Now if I'm driving should I have the aqua hot off and let the engine do the heating and then turn it on when I am stopped overnight? Am I wasting fuel if they are both on or will it help keep it warmer? Will my 4 batteries keep the aqua hot and fans running overnight for say 8 hours in the cold?

We are living in Canada and travelling to Arizona and the weather here is -20 - -25 F and was wondering if I can put fresh water in and travel without any freezing problems as long as the aqua hot is on in the basement. We have zone 1 for front, zone 2 for rear and a basement zone. I put a thermometer beside the fresh water tank after the aqua hot was on overnight and the temp was 50 F and the outside temp was 28 F . I'm thinking I'm ok but would feel better hearing from someone who has done this.