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    NW of Chicago
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  • I travel
    With pets

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  1. I'm good with the current setup with the single remote set to RF. Works great with all 4 TVs. I appreciate the suggestions that helped guide me to setting it up on RF. I don't need the second remote but plan on hanging on to it in case the RF remote stops working. I figure I can always reset the box to IR via the Directv front panel and then use the spare remote to reset everything to RF. Thanks again! Mark .
  2. Not sure I follow. I only have one Directv remote and 4 Samsung remotes, one for each tv. The Directv remote, now set to RF, will fire up each tv individually along with the Directv box as long as I am pointing the remote in the general vicinity of that tv. The other three remain off. Happy to try anything as long as its easy to undo. I actually have an extra Directv remote from the PO but once I programmed the second remote to RF, the extra remote won't work with the Directv box. I didn't spend any time trying to figure out how to get it working with RF. Mark
  3. Got the remote switched to RF and tested all the TVs while set on satellite and everything works fine. TVs each turn on along with the Directv box and ONLY the TV turns on that I am pointing the remote at. Was a little worried that all 4 would turn on at once. Changing did leave me with two anomalies which are no big deal. One is that I now get a message to program the remote every time I turn on the Directv tuner despite the fact that I select "Don''t show me this again" every time. The other is that the remote will turn on the LG entertainment box (DVD player and surround sound) but it won't turn it off. I don't think the LG box did that before but I really don't remember and don't much care. The whole setup has always seemed sort of kludgy anyway. Pieces have always randomly stopped working only to start again. Inelegant at its best and really, really frustrating at its worst. Just LED overheads so no worries there. Thanks for the suggestions! Mark
  4. This is just a question of curiosity. I don't really need to fix the problem but I am curious about why the remote works very strangely in the bedroom. I have 2015 Tiffin with 4 TVs. Each has an IR extender/repeater device. They are all connected to the Direct TV box through an IR emitter that is glued to the IR window on the Direct TV box. When they are all set to satellite input, 3 of the TVs, the living room, the **** pit and the outside TV, all function perfectly in that I can be up to 10 feet away from the IR repeater and still control Directv via the remote by pointing it at the IR repeater located next to each TV. The problem is the bedroom. Unless I am holding the remote no more than a foot or so from either the repeater or the Directv box itself, the remote won't function. It WILL function, however, if I am it sideways toward the mirrored closet doors or at the headboard which is on the wall directly opposite of the IR repeater and the Directv box. Works very consistently that way. Yet if I'm a couple of feet away from the box and repeater and the remote is aimed at directly at either of them , nothing.. Like I said, I don't need to fix it but logic would have indicated that if I was going to have a problem it would be with one relatively far away from the Directv box. Go figure. Mark
  5. Well, my non-powered Cat to HDMI converters worked, just not very well. The picture was lightly pixelated when compared to a TV connected via straight HDMI or powered cat to HDMI receivers. Was worth a try given the potential cost savings. . I'm going to end up going with Tiffin's replacement box because I can reuse the existing powered cat receivers and just swap out the converter box. That way I don't have to remove two of my TVs to access the powered receivers which are buried behind the TV. Thanks for all the help!
  6. Thanks. While I was waiting for responses I mistakenly ordered an OREI HD-104 which is nothing more than an HDMI splitter only. That was before I realized I had an HDMI to cat splitter/extender/converter. So doing a little more research, I found some non-powered Cat to HDMI converters that connect to each end of the cat plugs and then plug into the TV and the HDMI splitter. Will know this weekend if they work or not. Not really hopeful but worth a try. All in cost would be $29 for the splitter and $12 each (need 3 sets per splitter) for the little non-powered converters. (JahyShow HDMI extender adaptor). Probably junk but worth trying before I send it all back via Amazon and order an HDMI to cat box with 4 receivers.. Potential problem I foresee based on the information that you guys provided is that the cat cable won't reach to the TV. Sounds like the receivers may be located a bit away from the TV with an HDMI cable connecting it to the TV. We'll see. Hopefully I'll have a big loop of cat cable near each TV.
  7. I'll find out this weekend when I search for the receivers. I don't see any access panels on the cockpit or outside tv which is why I'm thinking I have to remove them to access the receivers. I think there might be an access panel under the main tv but don't know for sure. Even if I have to remove them, they're fairly light, just awkward. Thanks for the pictures. Very helpful. Mark
  8. Was hoping that statement was correct and I didn't have to change receivers.. Would have saved having to remove and reinstall 3 tvs to be able to get to the connections. At least that's what the task looks like after an initial inspection. Mark
  9. So to be clear, the OREI transmitter is compatible with the Tripplevision receivers installed at each tv? Thanks for the reply! Mark
  10. I have a 2015 Tiffin with two 1x8 (4 ports unused on each) HDMI over cat converters/extenders/splitters. One just fried and one power module just fried leaving me with one working one. I want to replace both because they run hot and are notorious for breaking. Tiffin has a replacement that is a 1x4 that runs much cooler but sounds like it is a bit pricey. Haven't called them yet this morning to find out because the problem just surfaced over the weekend. Has anybody replaced these units? If so what with and do you need to pull the TVs to replace the cat to HDMI receiver at the end of each cat run (if there is one)? I know almost nothing about this stuff other than what I researched last night trying to find a replacement. Everything I've found seems to have a central converter/extender/splitter box that requires a powered receiver at the end of each cat run. Mark
  11. I have a buddy who's kid built an RV out of an old school bus (known as skoolies). Unfortunately he broke down within a few a few miles of his inaugural voyage. The shop found both fuel filters clogged but also stated that they found pieces of rubber in fuel tank. I've never heard of that. I know rubber deteriorates and I make it a habit of replacing all rubber lines on old cars that I have restored including an old 76 GMC Eleganza motorhome. Anybody ever hear of that? If true, what else has to be cleaned and flushed to get the fuel system clean and reliable? I don't have the year or make of the bus but I can likely get it if important. Thanks Mark
  12. Don't know. Factory installed on both furnaces. Don't have coach here but guessing there is a bead of silicone between that plate and the coach?
  13. This may be an easy fix for anyone who wants to use their furnace on the road but can't because it keeps blowing out. My horizontally mounted rear furnace intake/exhaust kept doing that while my vertically mounted mid-cabin furnace intake/exhaust worked perfectly. After thinking about it for a while I decided to try introducing something that would divert/obstruct/change the air flow over the rear furnace intake/exhaust. Lo and behold it worked. I tested it at 65 mph multiple times and it hasn't failed yet.The 'device' is just a 2" pvc coupling that I first cut in half lengthwise then cut it in half again widthwise. Painted it silver and attached with clear silicone to the rear side of the intake opening so it could divert/obstruct/change the airflow over the intake/exhaust. I have no idea about the exact dynamics and whether it would have worked just as well mounted on the exhaust but it worked. Now I'm looking forward to a warmer coach on the road. Here are a few pictures. And yes I know even Suburban (spoke with them) recommends not using the furnace while traveling but many of us ignore that advice. Should think of a fancy name for it like the "Dynamic Aero Turbulator" and sell em.😄 Mark
  14. As promised. I finally finished my testing of the slow key cycle method recommended by Allison to avoid randomly losing my full throttle downshift ability. The recommendation was to wait 5 seconds in the on position before engaging the starter. I exercised an abundance of caution and waited 10 seconds. I tested it 10 days in a row with 10 cycles each road test. I would start it up in the storage lot, get out on the road, do a full throttle downshift at shift points that I knew it should respond to a full throttle downshift request, validate it worked, then pull over and do another key cycle for a total of 10 cycles per trip. I have a call into Allison to review my findings and determine their next steps in fixing this bug or design issue. I'm not exactly sure how they are categorizing it. Please pass on this information to anyone you know that might be having some performance issues with their Allison trans. Hopefully Allison will communicate this and other issues out to their field team and repair centers. No one I dealt with, including the most recent team from Allison and Cummins, knew anything about this. It wasn't until I got these two tenacious individuals who chose to own the problem rather than simply say their side looked good, that we discovered it was known by Allison and I wasn't exactly alone in experiencing this. Mark
  15. Day 4 and all remains good. 4 days and 40 key cycles. I'll report back when I finish the 10 days but the slow key cycle work around is looking good.
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