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Wanting to see what AWG cable size is recommended when adding additional 6 volt batteries to an existing battery set. Currently have two 6 volt 210ah batteries that need replacing and I want to add two more. I fully understand the series/parallel wiring arrangement needed for the four batteries, but have no clear idea whether to go with 2 AWG, 4 AWG other sized cables for the new connections involved. What’s the best selection?

I have been living in my 30 foot Fleetwood Flair chevy 454 for eight months continuously on shore power. I have not used this rig for boondocking, but I want to. This morning I decided to tackle my biggest problem, when i turn off the 120 breaker the coach does not switch into DC mode, or onto house battery power. first I checked the converter, which is under 3 years old, 4 stage boondocker. It seemed to be working fine. next i checked the house batteries and they were 12.5-12.7v then i checked the intellitec 00100055000 relay solenoid battery cutoff, and to my surprise neither the switch for the chassis, or coach batteries had fuses in them, the switch was reading 1-2 v on the power side and zero on the exit side, so i took it apart put fuses in it and put it back together, and what do ya know, it worked, I turned off the 120v main breaker and all of the 12v appliances worked. Since I am taking a trip i decided to service the house batteries, i took them out and one needed water badly but it still read 12.5 volts, the other was full of water reading around 12.7v, i cleaned them and put them back in and none of the batteries worked, including the chassis battery, it would not turn over the engine, but it worked fine yesterday, and is reading 12.8v, the thing is I went ahead and put the two 5amp fuses that it was missing while I was at it. but it was working without the fuses? very strange Some questions i would like answered if possible; can these switches work with no fuses in them? is it possible that they both went bad at the same time? or did putting fuses in them open the gate and drain the batteries?

Hello. I have a '91 Itasca Windcruiser. The other day I went to go start my RV and the starter battery was dead. I attempted to use the "MON" switch on my dash that combines the house batters and jump start the RV. It started to crank over but then stopped. The button did not work when I attempted to use it again. I was able to get the engine started with a different jumper/charger. My issue is now I am no longer getting 12 volt power to the coach. The aux battery switch does nothing. Even when I plug into shore power, I get no 12 volt power. The solenoid that use to click when I pressed the rocker switch no longer clicks when the engine is off. It does click on, however when I have the key in the "on" position, and flip the switch to have the alternator charge the house batteries. As soon as I turn the key off, I loose all power to the coach. I replaced both fuses on the solenoid itself, I check every fuse on the chassis fuse panel and made sure every 12 volt breakers were not tripped. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

We purchased a 2011 Thor Tuscany in the spring. Our house batteries are located on a pull-out tray. It is very difficult to see the fluid levels in them. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to see the fluid levels and put distilled water in them. The two rear batteries are almost impossible to get to. Thanks for your help

We upgraded our Class A 3 weeks ago from a "88" Winnebago Elandon 32ft to a "02" Winnebago Adventure 35U. The first couple weeks we spent moving from one into the other and took our first trip last weekend to work out any bugs and get use to it before our big 2 wk trip coming up in 6 days..... After loading all the groceries, dogs, etc. it wouldn't start, but I had started it 1 time each week and it started that morning 6 hrs before I was pulling out. I was able to cross jump it, but once in our spot, leveled, slides out I turned it off. Thinking the 45-1 hr drive would have gotten a good charge done. I hooked up shoreline, water and sewer and when I went to get the awning out, my steps wouldn't work, the awning wouldn't work...basically nothing worked...house batteries and engine battery was dead.... I didn't get a manual with it, so I printed one from Winnebago and since found that there were a couple things that shouldn't be left on or they will completely drain the batteries. I have turned those things off and the solar charger light is on saying it is trickle charging, but all batteries are still dead.....I again crossed jumped it and let it run for about 40 min. and still nothing... Going from an "88" to a "02" with 2 slides, heat pump etc. I know I have a high learning curve going on, but I could really use some help from anyone in our RV community !!! Can anyone out there give me a hand to try and figure this out and get it fixed?? Thank you so very much in advance Sisterblue

I have 1994 Winnebago Vectra Diesel Pusher and I'm having trouble with the lights not working off the coach batteries. I can get all appliances and lights to work when I'm plugged in, but not when it's unplugged. All batteries are hooked up correctly and have ample volts. I don't know if the converter has something to do with this or not. The converter is in a bad place to get to, so all I can see is the back and side. I should also add that when I'm plugged in to shore power the batteries are not being charged. I have had this problem for a while now and I'm getting tired of putting in batteries every year. Any ideas?