Gary-Val Report post Posted December 12, 2009 I have a 2002 Rexhall RexAir, double slides, a Ford chassis with a V-10. I went to turn on the headlights the other day and nothing happened. The running lights work, but not the headlights. I checked all the fuses and they all appear to be good. I checked voltage at the plug on the back of one of the lamp assemblies, and zero. There are several relays next to the fuse box, but they're not labeled. Any of you have a suggestion? I appreciate your help. Gary Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted December 12, 2009 I have a 2002 Rexhall RexAir, double slides, a Ford chassis with a V-10. I went to turn on the headlights the other day and nothing happened. The running lights work, but not the headlights. I checked all the fuses and they all appear to be good. I checked voltage at the plug on the back of one of the lamp assemblies, and zero. There are several relays next to the fuse box, but they're not labeled. Any of you have a suggestion? Gary, Best answer is to call Rexhall on Monday for a wiring diagram. Using a relay is the best way to power the headlights, as there is a voltage drop across the light switches at high amp loads/a limit to how many amps the switch can reliably handle. By using a relay, headlights will be brighter and the head light switch will last longer. So, hopefully that IS how yours is wired. Have you verified that all the wires are still on the head light switch and that the one to the headlights has power when the switch is in that position? Any way to trace back wiring from driver's side head light to relay? Brett Wolfe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pianodan Report post Posted December 13, 2009 I would hope the headlight switch on your '02 isn't the same as the one on my '91 coach. The mfg used a Ford headlight switch (every Napa in the country knows of them because of this problem) that overheats with the load placed on it of all the clearance lights. The headlights will go out but the rest of the lights will stay lit. I replaced mine twice, then seperated the wiring, put the clearance and tail lights on a heavy duty toggle switch (on trucks they call this the ICC switch) and I haven't had a problem since. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted December 13, 2009 I replaced mine twice, then separated the wiring, put the clearance and tail lights on a heavy duty toggle switch (on trucks they call this the ICC switch) and I haven't had a problem since. Consider using a HD relay with hot coming from battery, with the switch only providing the "signal" to close the relay. It leaves all functions the same, but allows a high-amp relay (still under $8) to give full voltage to headlights. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pianodan Report post Posted December 14, 2009 Consider using a HD relay with hot coming from battery, with the switch only providing the "signal" to close the relay. It leaves all functions the same, but allows a high-amp relay (still under $8) to give full voltage to headlights. Yeah, I could've done that, but since I seperated the wiring it's been working fine ever since. It's nice having the clearance and tail lights on a seperate switch anyway, now I can flash my lights as "thank you" when I pass a truck and he dips his headlights for me to move into the lane. I may add relays anyway to keep the wiring cooler. It's a horrible rat's nest that I've been trying to sort out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
