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wolfe10

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  1. https://community.fmca.com/search/?q=CENTRAMATIC
  2. Or if no ladder, double sided tape from any hardware or box store to put in the back of your RV.
  3. Aquinby3, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Log into FMCA.com Click on https://www.fmca.com/member-help-search
  4. Are you sure it is a 454. Most Workhorse chassis of that vintage have the Chevy 8.1 liter (496 CID). Transmission and suspension depend on whether P or W chassis, but to my knowledge they all use the 8.1 liter engine.
  5. kraussdk, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please tell us what motorhome you have. Exactly what is not working?
  6. Absolutely, start a Super C Chapter. If you need assistance many here will be glad to offer guidance.
  7. Cheap, easy start is to replace the fuel filter(s). That is the most likely cause and the least expensive to address. And, if it/they are restricting fuel flow, will shorten fuel injection component life.
  8. And, coming directly off the house battery with the appropriate gauge duplex wire and fuse at the battery sized to protect the wire should be significantly shorter than merely connecting to existing coach wiring.
  9. Check voltage at the frige/freezer when it turn on. Voltage may be OK with it off, but with load may drop too much. Let us know what you find.
  10. I would think the police would have a pretty easy time securing that footage.
  11. wolfe10

    Tire size issue

    Mike, The 295/80 is quite a lot larger than the 275/80-- it is wider, taller and fewer revolutions per mile (will have some effect on speedometer and gearing). From Michelin's RV tire guide: Revolutions per mile: 275/80 is 518 295/80 is 500 Michelin does not show a 295/75, but a Goodyear 295/75 is 517 revolutions per mile-- VERY close to the 275/80R22.5.. A 295/75 is VERY close and is often substituted. With the 295/75, if minimum dual spacing is OK (very likely it is) you are good to go.
  12. "I'm not sure what the salesman switch is; can someone explain that term? I do have a master control panel inside the door." Different names for the same device. Either a mechanical switch or switch controlling a RELAY/SOLENOID that connects house battery bank with 12 VDC house systems.
  13. If the shock did pull apart, first thing I would do is check RIDE HEIGHT. If too high, the weight of the rear axle could hang from the shocks as you come off of bumps/a wheel fall in a hole. They are NOT designed to do that. Some chassis have straps or other means of limiting rear axle travel. You certainly want something other than a shock to be the limiter.
  14. Let's get this thread back on track: Camping World 3rd quarter results. Thanks. Moderator
  15. But, do NOT use jumper cables while driving. Both ends are HOT and if it were to jump off and contact any surrounding metal (read that ground) a fire could result. If we know what coach you have or how it is wired, there are a number of reasonable diagnostics that you can preform with a simple, under $20 digital voltmeter. And if we know what coach you have and how it is wired we can suggest some safe work-arounds that will allow you to drive.
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