Sewer Smell

[boop452]

We have never hooked up or used our washer/dryer. Instead, we had it taken out and installed extra pull out drawers. Tonight I noticed a foul sewer like odor coming from the drawer area. I'm sure it is coming from the pipes where the washer/dryer should be hooked up to.

I'm not sure if hot weather has anything to do with it or not, but we recently have been in triple digit heat. Could this have affected something in the pipes?

Help please or I will have to buy some clothes pins really soon!

Thanks so much,

Laura~

[NavyDad89]

I have to guess, but in my experience with washer/dryer units that sometimes were not regularly used, the washer drain pipe trap has dried out and is allowing air from the waste tank that it feeds to enter your closet area. I would suggest finding a way to put a few ounces of water (or even better some RV anti-freeze) down the drain pipe and then seal the top of the pipe with a rubber plug or some tape to prevent recurrences.

It may be that your tank vent is not working properly, but even if that is the case, filling that trap and plugging the top of the drain will eliminate the foul smell access point there. Normally, the washer drains into the gray tank and not into the sewer or black tank and you do not have quite as obnoxious odor but if you (as we did at times) do not regularly allow the gray tank to fill with soapy water and then dump the tank, you could have sewer gas backing up from the park sewer drain hose and that is what is coming into your closet through this empty trap.

Good Luck!

Ed

[wolfe10]

Laura,

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

Ed is absolutely correct. First thing to check is that the P trap for the washer indeed has water in it. And as he suggests, if you are not going to connect the washer, use potable RV antifreeze (from Walmart, etc) and seal off the pipe so it will not re-evaporate.

Brett

[Guest BillAdams]

If you have no intention of using this connection you just need to seal the pipes. There no need to put anything in the trap as there will no longer be any air flow through the pipe once it is sealed. It's likely a standard PVC pipe size for which you can buy the appropriate sized cap.

[chucknewman]

Laura,

I agree with Bill and the Brett on this issue with one exception. The drain pipes are ABS, not PVC, at least in every RV I've owned or seen. Of course, for Bill's Prevost he may in fact have PVC. It will work OK for draining. Just that ABS is typical.

The point here is don't mix different types of "plastic" pipe. Each type has it's own specific adhesive (ABS, PVC, CPVC, etc.), and using the wrong one can lead to leaks and composite material breakdown over time. ABS pipe is black and PVC pipe is white.

Also be aware the "RVIA code" for drain-waste-vent systems most RV manufactures adhere to specification of a smaller drain size pipe than used in most residential applications. Measure the existing drain pipe outside diameter and look for an "end cap" fitting. Don't be surprised if you have trouble finding the size needed at local retailers. You can get then online.

For information, most commercial RV washer drains connect between the black and gray tank valves, on the sewer side. Hence when connected to a park sewer drain, the sewer system gases will come up through the hose, through the washer drain (if insufficient water in the trap) and into the coach. We have personal experience with that.

[Koliver]

You will likely have 1.25" black ABS pipe. Cap it with a black cap, likely under $2.00 at Home Depot.

[Guest BillAdams]

Thanks for the correction as I know nothing about PVC or ABS. Get what you have and cap it! Problem solved!