Roadtrekingmike Report post Posted May 26, 2012 I have a 2006 Roadtrek RS-Adventurous diesel Class B. I'm contemplating towing but haven't a clue. We're about to get a new Honda CRV or a Fit, which I understand are towable with all four wheels down. Is the hitch that comes with my RS Adventurous strong enough to tow a car? Come to think of it, just how do I tow a vehicle? What do I need? Complete newbie questions :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RVerOnTheMove Report post Posted May 26, 2012 The 2 things that you will need to tow your car that you do not yet have is a base plate for the car to which you can attach a tow bar and you will need a tow bar. Blue Ox and Road Master are the most popular versions and can provide the necessary equipment. I have used both and prefer Blue Ox but I suspect you will hear from others who will say the exact opposite. You will need to find out the rating of the existing tow hitch on your RV but I suspect that it is rated to tow at least 5,000 which will be fine. You also need to look at the RV's GCWR (or similar letters meaning gross combined weight rating) which is the total weight allowed for the fully loaded RV and tow vehicle weights combined. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Briarhopper Report post Posted May 26, 2012 Double check this info. Looked at Roadtreks in that year range with idea of towing a trailer. Their published tow capabilities include only the driver. The tow rating is "reduced by optional equipment, fuel, water, propane, cargo and/or passengers". The rating for the 2005-2006 starts at 5,000 and you'll drop about 1,500+ lbs for stuff so you end up with a real world tow capability in the 3,000 to 3,500 lb range. Do however, verify as every coach has different options and everyone carryies different stuff. If you have less options and carry less stuff, you can tow more (CR-V or maybe bigger). More options and more stuff means you can tow less (maybe pick the Fit). Along with the base plate and tow bars, you will likely want brake system for the Honda that operates the Honda brakes while being towed. This is required by many state vehicle laws. BH Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danddferr Report post Posted May 26, 2012 Mike I tow the Honda Fit 4 down and it sounds like that would be your best bet because it has a curb weight of only 2,500 # and it sounds like total weight might be an issue for you. Plus with less weight your rig will be able to make it up hills easier. I have the Blue Ox base plate but for a tow bar I used the Ready brake by NSA. It uses a surge braking system built into the tow bar to activate the cars brakes for towing. Works like a charm and is easy to hook and unhook the toad. I did a 7 week tour last summer and hit some 9 % grades with no issues what so ever. So far as should you tow.. I always bring mine with me even if only going for a weekend. Nice to have along. Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roadtrekingmike Report post Posted May 29, 2012 Thanks all... Honda Fit seems what we'd go with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimMarkle Report post Posted June 8, 2012 We own a 2011 4 W/D Escape and don't want to destroy transmission. We are considering buying a two axle trailer to pull behind our 2011 Bounder 35H Gas. Do I need brakes on both axles or just one axle? Need advice. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RVerOnTheMove Report post Posted June 8, 2012 If you use a tow dolly to tow your car you would want to buy a dolly with brakes and that would be all you would need. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Briarhopper Report post Posted June 8, 2012 We own a 2011 4 W/D Escape and don't want to destroy transmission. We are considering buying a two axle trailer to pull behind our 2011 Bounder 35H Gas. Do I need brakes on both axles or just one axle? Need advice. Thanks Depends on how safe you want to be and where you are towing. Considering safety, any given vehicle will stop in a shorter distance with more brake square inches than less. Considering location, different states have different regulations. Kentucky, for instance, technically only requires brakes on 2 wheels, BUT you have to be able to stop on level ground within 40 feet when traveling at 20mph. I think some jurisdictions require brakes on all axles. There have been other discussions on the forum and a search for "brake" or "axle" should populate your screen with more info. Brake linings on all wheels will last longer with more brake square inches, assuming proper set up. BH Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimMarkle Report post Posted June 10, 2012 Thanks for the information and the help. We have a 2011 Bounder Gas 35h and don't want to over load it. Many Blessings, Jim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Briarhopper Report post Posted June 10, 2012 JimMarkle, You might know this stuff already, but just in case. The Escape and trailer will be close to the Bounder's tow capacity of 5,000 lbs. Using a trailer, you would also need to keep the tongue weight below 500 lbs and the only way to do that on a motor home hitch is balancing the load on the trailer. So, the trailer either needs to be just the right size for an Escape or have movable axles. The trailer weight will of course add to the gross combined weight and the tongue weight will add to both GVWR and rear GAWR. So, need to watch those numbers to stay below the ratings. BH Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
