Residential Refrigerators

[huffypuff]

One major question about the fridge conversion. What do you do about the rear and roof vent since it would allow heat out from under the fridge in the winter and heat in during the summer?

[tbutler]

I sealed both. Not only does it allow outside air in, it also provides openings for insects. The Norcold had a seal on the front of the unit where it met the cabinetry so anything that got inside would only be in the refrigerator compartment. The residential refrigerator doesn't have that tight a seal, not only would the sides be a problem but no residential refrigerator I know of has a tight seal around the compressor compartment and the floor.

The roof opening was sealed by putting insulation above a board screwed into the ceiling. The outside vent is still on the roof and this allows going back to a RV refrigerator if a future owner wanted to. I sealed the wall vent by sealing the vents in the removable panel. I used insulation and duct tape to block those openings. I can still remove the panel if I want access to the rear of the refrigerator and the outlet. This panel could also be used for an RV refrigerator again if desired.

[huffypuff]

Yes Tom that is what I was thinking about, the compressor compartment and the floor would allow major air leak in and out as well as the sides. I'm thinking foam panels could be used to fill any void and taped into place before the refrigerator is pushed into the wall? Of course it would be plugged in and water line hooked up before it is pushes in the wall.

I'm thinking the panels can come from Home Depot or Lowes that is used in siding. That would beef up the insulation that is already there and close up the holes at the same time.

[jleamont]

I screened in the side wall access cover on the inside with door screen and GE clear silicone to keep it in place so no bugs would get in. I left the roof vent functional (already screened) I figured air could enter thru the side wall access and any heat could escape out of the roof vent. The compressor sits about 5" in from the wall access and there is a fan on the motor to circulate air. The under side of the fridge didnt seal to the floor, celing or sides like the RV unit did so I spray foamed the openings to seal off any air flow from outside, I did the same with a 3" deep spray foam wall just beyond the wall opening to the interior and trimmed the gap off with wood trim that I stained to match the interior wood.

I figured the spray foam would hold tight and its fairly easy to remove in the event the unit has to come out (just messy). I wanted to keep the coach ready in the event an RV refridgerator would be installed another time. Mounting the unit was easy since the rear access is wide open when my exterior cover is removed, all of the mechanical components are right in you face with the cover off (just like the RV unit was). When the foam dried I turned on all of the roof fans and closed the windows and ran a paper towel around the unit just to make sure it was sealed. I made a door lock that I copied from Fleetwood, this is the photo I took at rhe RV show. the upper and lower doors slide over and under the knob and you simply turn it to hold the doors closed in the event something hits them on the inside it will act as an additional lock over the magnetic gasket. Before you leave you just have to remember to turn the knob in the vertical position.

[BillAdams]

Not sure about your setup, but my RR pulls air from inside the RV under the fridge where the coils are located and exhaust to the back of the fridge. If I seal everything up back there I am not sure where the air would go! I did seal up the access door behind the fridge as outside freezing air (it was -4) froze the ice maker water line when I left it as is. I taped off all the openings from the outside and used the "foam in a can" to create an air tight insulated door which allows full access to that compartment should I need it. I also left the roof vent in its original open condition to allow the fridge heat to exhaust vertically as necessary. Mine fits "pretty tight" all the way around but there is enough space that I can pull it out if I loosen a couple of screws. I don't think there would be enough air flow that could come down the roof vent and into the coach through those minor gaps that would make any difference in our interior living conditions.

[jleamont]

Thanks Bill for the heads up, I looked under ours prior to install and my condensor is in the rear next to the compressor, in fact it has its own fan, that and its size were the purchasing decision. I guess before you make a purchase like this one should look over the unit to make sure you have all angles covered prior to committing to the purchase. I attached a photo of the finished product.