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jleamont

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About jleamont

  • Birthday 07/07/1972

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    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • I travel
    With children

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  1. I am not sure the size of the coach would determine that as much as ones ability to make repairs on the roadside. Being the chassis you have is a very dependable platform my only concern would be tire failure,. I am confident aside from a road hazard you got that covered already
  2. Did you wrap up the last floor you posted on Facebook?
  3. Here is another option to try for parts; http://www.nwrvsupply.com/
  4. Home Depot, Tractor Supply sells bar stock (different thicknesses and lengths) you could bend into something that would work. Bench vise and a hammer, get creative.
  5. When you get it back are you going to wash the undercarriage, get rid of all that salt?
  6. 12 speed transmission direct drive 252 rears. It will pull 80,000 all over the northeast at 68 MPH if I had to take a guess 7.5 MPG, plus it’s more aerodynamic. The secret is the gears, if Motorhomes had those gears and aerodynamics we wouldn’t need so much HP and our MPGs would increase. Keep in mind it wasn’t that long ago you were on top of the world with 400 hp in a truck (the norm was 350 HP) but you had 13-18 speeds back then. I believe the torque is 1750, that’s also a big help.
  7. kdherb, sounds like a good plan. Happy Holidays to you as well, don't be a stranger.
  8. It helps with side to side sway. On ours it did make you feel more road defects throughout the interior.
  9. Correct, one line from the tank to the lift pump. The return line should come off of the cylinder head and go to the tank. There is usually a check valve on the back of the cylinder head between the line and Head. You could also pull that, make sure it clear and not stuck open.
  10. When you are pulling a hill, what color smoke (if any) do you see? Another check, rev the engine sitting still, does it break up and smoke, if so what color? You have the most simplistic engine given its a mechanical injected engine, so some basic checks could point this in the right direction, with your mechanical aptitude you'll pick it up quickly. Its such a simple system you might over think it. Low fuel volume to the lift pump, could be a failed fuel line between the pump and tank sucking air. You could try a new hose into a 5 gallon jug and see if power is restored. Blocked/clogged fuel system, algae and other crud is not uncommon. Older Monaco's utilized rubber fuel hoses that would breakdown over time and collapse and clog the main feed line between the tank and lift pump. Fuel injection pump needs rebuilt. This is fairly common as the new fuels eat up the old style components within these pumps. Since this is the most expensive lets table this for the time being. We don't want to open this door unless we have exhausted all other checks.
  11. You certainly have a fuel issue. Could be aerated fuel, could be a clog internally within the carburetor. Just tossing this out there, it is full of oil correct? I see a low oil level sensor in the photo. Try and give it a different fuel source and see if it starts. Unhook the fuel line, and pick up some bulk fuel hose, drop it into a gas can and see if it runs.
  12. kdherb, Welcome to the FMCA Fourms! After reading your post above a few things jump out. It sound like you are not using a Tire pressure monitoring system? You could have picked up a foreign object that resulted in a slow loss of air which caused the tire to fail. If tire pressures are checked before each trip that in itself could have caused the issue. Perhaps checking the tire pressures resulted in a leak from the valve stem. I have seen this scenario happen to many people. Anything is possible, glad to hear you both are safe. If it were my coach I would have the remaining tires inspected by a professional, and replace accordingly. If you do not feel comfortable with them or their findings replace all of them and move on. I replaced our Michelin's with BF Goodrich in the beginning of 2017.
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