jleamont Report post Posted September 17, 2014 I screened in the side wall access cover on the inside with door screen and GE clear silicone to keep it in place so no bugs would get in. I left the roof vent functional (already screened) I figured air could enter thru the side wall access and any heat could escape out of the roof vent. The compressor sits about 5" in from the wall access and there is a fan on the motor to circulate air. The under side of the fridge didnt seal to the floor, celing or sides like the RV unit did so I spray foamed the openings to seal off any air flow from outside, I did the same with a 3" deep spray foam wall just beyond the wall opening to the interior and trimmed the gap off with wood trim that I stained to match the interior wood. I figured the spray foam would hold tight and its fairly easy to remove in the event the unit has to come out (just messy). I wanted to keep the coach ready in the event an RV refridgerator would be installed another time. Mounting the unit was easy since the rear access is wide open when my exterior cover is removed, all of the mechanical components are right in you face with the cover off (just like the RV unit was). When the foam dried I turned on all of the roof fans and closed the windows and ran a paper towel around the unit just to make sure it was sealed. I made a door lock that I copied from Fleetwood, this is the photo I took at rhe RV show. the upper and lower doors slide over and under the knob and you simply turn it to hold the doors closed in the event something hits them on the inside it will act as an additional lock over the magnetic gasket. Before you leave you just have to remember to turn the knob in the vertical position. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillAdams Report post Posted September 17, 2014 Not sure about your setup, but my RR pulls air from inside the RV under the fridge where the coils are located and exhaust to the back of the fridge. If I seal everything up back there I am not sure where the air would go! I did seal up the access door behind the fridge as outside freezing air (it was -4) froze the ice maker water line when I left it as is. I taped off all the openings from the outside and used the "foam in a can" to create an air tight insulated door which allows full access to that compartment should I need it. I also left the roof vent in its original open condition to allow the fridge heat to exhaust vertically as necessary. Mine fits "pretty tight" all the way around but there is enough space that I can pull it out if I loosen a couple of screws. I don't think there would be enough air flow that could come down the roof vent and into the coach through those minor gaps that would make any difference in our interior living conditions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted September 18, 2014 Thanks Bill for the heads up, I looked under ours prior to install and my condensor is in the rear next to the compressor, in fact it has its own fan, that and its size were the purchasing decision. I guess before you make a purchase like this one should look over the unit to make sure you have all angles covered prior to committing to the purchase. I attached a photo of the finished product. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites