urbanhermit
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Posts posted by urbanhermit
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Subject coach: "Mother Superior," 2006 Monaco Cayman 36. On first trip after bringing it 720 miles home from purchase, on return leg, a whistling started that was very loud and shrill, actually sounded like it was coming from inside but from the upper left-hand corner of the windshield, and seemed to be at least somewhat responsive to the gusty crosswind we were experiencing. Came in at 65 or thereabouts. Did not occur on the trip over the top of Louisiana from Dallas to Pensacola. Today on a short interstate run it came in at 65 again, but only briefly and seemed to be on the right side of the windshield. I've heard that this isn't unheard of and may be caused by the mirrors. It did start on the homeward leg after I adjusted the orientation of the left mirror pod, but I didn't adjust the right one. The left-side shrieking was sustained for hours and was loud enough to drown out conversation. Anyone familiar with this phenomenon, know the cause, and/or know the cure?
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On 12/1/2019 at 2:02 PM, jleamont said:Rudi, let it shift on its own. The only thing I do is monitor engine RPM’s, if they climb too high I step on the brake to keep it in a safe range (Stab brake technique).
Sometimes it gets a bit too close to redline for my likings.
Clarify "stab brake technique" for me please. I'm new to air brakes, and read in an owner's manual that I should not pump the brakes due to the risk of depleting air pressure. I've always been a brake-pumper with hydraulics.
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On 1/11/2020 at 4:00 AM, hermanmullins said:To me it looks like the superstructure is made of wood. Am I seeing it correct? If I am correct it would be 2x2 wood versus 2x2 metal.
Herman
What's that brand that uses plywood body panels? Countryman? Country Coach? You guys are impressively knowledgeable and sharp-eyed. I sit in awe.
I saw this same thing recently on I-10 in Florida, but with a trailer. Nothing bud the floor intact; everything above it reduced to splinters and scattered 50 feet beyond the guard rail
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On 4/30/2019 at 6:15 PM, wayne77590 said:Ha ha! I've fooled them several times. Our CC company issues us two cards, one for me, one for her. The numbers are different but the account is the same. They did this i case a card was lost or stolen then they could stop that card and the other would be good until new cards could be issued. I like the policy. So when my card fills up at the pump I use the other card with a different number.
it is not the CC company but the vendor. Don't ask a clerk as they have no idea.Now there's a slick idea! Made me check -- yup, two different numbers, one account. We picked up those when we changed banks, and I try to use them only for RV-related stuff of all kinds. We retain the previous cards from our former bank, which are also two numbers, one account. I just realized I've got four cards to play with, though with a 75 gallon tank I'm sure I'll never need more than two. Thankee, Wayne.
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On 12/5/2019 at 5:33 PM, Lightnup said:2000 Fleetwood Bounder 34’
How cautious do I have to be when walking on top for doing maintenance on A/Cs or forward antennas or sealing the roof? Are there stringers or crossbeams to try to walk on or doesn’t it really matter as long as I’m not stomping around? At 250 lbs, I’m not exactly a little guy and don’t want to put weight where I shouldn’t. Thanks for the input.
Dunno about other construction, but a wet fiberglass roof is slick as greased goose mess. I'm agile and have good balance and being up there puckers me tightly.
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On 2/23/2020 at 4:44 AM, rcieslak67 said:I never heard of Toyo tires and they are not listed in the FMCA offerings. I have had at least 3 sets of Goodyear RV tires and have not seen any unusual wear pattern on them.
I've run Toyos happily since the 1970s, off and on, alternating them with Michelins (which I prefer, but which are more expensive). This is on passenger cars. Toyo I have no idea how they are for RVs, but Toyo is a quality brand.
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Well, I'll be. I'm a newbie; first visit here; first posts. Have DS on the front of the 2006 Monaco Caymen we recently bought. Lots of mold between the shield and the paint. I accepted it as part of the plus/minus package of selection. Now I see many of you have removed their DS and are happy with the removal over time. So . . .
But cost of removal: I see figures mentioned from $800 or to to over $2,500. Some clarification? It won't peel off with a heat gun?
(And yeah-- giving a cat a bath is . . . well, Fuzzbutt is seven now and the only one he's had is the time I put him in the shower and turned the water on to convince him he really isn't allowed in the bedroom. )
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One of the two RVs we have (don't ask -- I'm waiting for the market to revive) is a 1999 Itasca Sunflyer. Dim headlights turned out to be fogging inside the pods. Never mind the trouble and luck in finding those odd-shaped replacements. We got them and had them installed. I removed the bulbs from the old ones, poured in a non-viscous industrial cleaner that was in the garage when we bought the house, added some water, sloshed it around, then blew them out with a garden hose/nozzle upside down until the water was clear. Wallah! I've got a couple spare pods to use if one of the new ones is slain by road debris.
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On 6/15/2017 at 6:43 AM, BAMABOB said:We are considering getting a extended warranty since we will be doing extensive traveling across the USA & Canada over the next 3-5 years. We are looking at Wholesale Warranty as a good candidate (since they are apparently 'endorsed' by both FMCA and Escapees). Anyone have any experience with them? Especially in the area of claims and roadside assistance.
Appreciate any and all input!
I just received such a high quote from Wholesale that I thanked the salesman for his time and hung up. Admit ti wasn't as high as GS, to whom I responded in the same way. I have a quote for about half the WW/GS level from NorthStar, about whom I can find nothing, so I can't logically cite them as a reliable reference point. Just seems like almost $7,000 for two years for a well-maintained Monaco is exorbitant -- but I'm a neophyte at this.
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I don't see a mention here that there are two kinds of policies, exclusionary and inclusionary. The exclusionary policy, in my opinion, is safer: it covers everything not listed as excluded. The inclusionary policy covers only what is listed. These are usually very extensive, but read them carefully: For instance if they don't cover fan belts, and have a clause that excludes damaged to otherwise covered parts caused by the failure of an excluded part, and a fan belt breaks and overheating cracks the block -- sorry, Charley.
I've mostly decided on an inclusionary policy for a little more than half what GS and Wholesale Warranty quoted. It also has the clause about manufacturer's suggested maintenance, and we bought a well-used coach as third owners. The salesman told me that his company of course will not require records of "manufacturer suggested maintenance" from previous owners, only from our date of purchase on. Verbal confirmation. But there's the adage "If it ain't in writing, it ain't." Remains to be seen. It's a 75,000-mile, 14-year-old DP. My coach mechanic, whom I trust completely, strongly recommended a service contract. I agree; but I'm leery of throwing $5,000 to nearly $7,000 (GS, 2 years) at a potential problem without confidence it will establish a relationship with a fully ethical company.
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A bit off topic, but: We tried to buy our first Class A from CW/Biloxi, MS. Advertised prices seemed very favorable. Sat down to close; they brought forth over $3,000 in previously-unmentioned fees, including $1,865 "acquisition fee," which they said was to cover picking the RV up from the previous owner. We got up and walked out -- permanently, all CW locations..
Motorhome prices
in Type A motorhomes
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I don't know from nuthin about motorhome markups, but having once or twice sold new and used cars, decades ago, this strikes me as -- (diplomatically) -- questionable.