Jump to content

dwightginnyputzke

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    80

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by dwightginnyputzke

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I have seen the same condition before they went to the sock on the end of the fuel line at the bottom of the tank. A flake of rust can be drawn into the pipe and cause a fuel blockage. The fuel line can be disconnected behind the fuel filter and air pressure blown back into the tank to clear the obstruction. Remove the fuel filler cap before using the air pressure.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    hanco

    I have a 1995 Bounder with 19 dual pane windows and to date I have removed 9 of them As Soon As Moisture Appeared. I remove, dissemble, clean, then have the glass professionally resealed (currently $40 per window). I reinstall the windows and silicone around the outside on all sides except two small areas of the bottom of the frame that has cutouts for moisture. When the motor home is parked, I snap on a professionally made outside sun screen for each window and during the day I can see out but no one can see in. Motor home is stored outside (Minnesota) with no cover. My personal preference is dual pane windows.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Rvpainter

    If you enter Ready Brake in the upper right search box and enter all forums and click on the black square You will find that you have entered the one braking system that is trouble free except one person wasn't sure how to install the cable thru the front grille. Check it out. It really is trouble free and when you unhook your tow bar you have nothing else to think about except remembering to take your significant other with you.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    May 20 2009

    We have this problem with our motorhome and I know it is pretty common. Just viewed a website advertised in FMC magazine for a "fix" (foggeddoublepanewindow.com). Has anyone bought this manual ($32) and performed the fix? Does it actually work? The ad makes it sound easy -- is it? How much additional you do have to invest in parts, etc. to implement the fix? Would appreciate some feedback. Thanks.

    Copy of post #1 ------ Fogged Double Pane Windows

    I ordered the kit for evaluation but decided that it was a process that involved time and probably would need to be repeated when the window moisture problem reoccurred because a motor home is parked outside where sunlight and temperature changes cause the space between the glass to breath because the original seal has not been repaired. I have used and resealed double pane windows in my own buses and motor homes for over 30 years. It is labor intensive to remove, dissemble, and clean the glass as spotless as possible, but my local glass business charges me less that $50 to reseal a window with the latest materials. I have completed 9 double pane windows in my motor home for less then $350. My time is my hobby and I enjoy it.

    Dwight

  6. Posted · Report reply

    On a front engine motor home the loud noise is made by the engine mounted radiator cooling fan when the fan is in full engagement to properly cool the antifreeze mixture flowing thru the radiator when it exceeds a preset temperature. When the temperature is reduced by the large volume of air the fan will partially disengage and operate at a much slower quieter speed until the temperature again raises and the cycle repeats. ( crud on outside of radiator, hot weather, large hills, air conditioning==== more loud fan noise )

    It is your responsibility to see that all equipment mounted ahead of the engine cooling fan is kept free of all crud that blocks air flow through the fins of both sides of the radiator, air conditioning, power steering, etc.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Steve

    Compare your original window frame to the new frame. I believe the new window is inserted from the outside and held in place while you install the inside frame and reuse the original screws if they are self drilling. (Do not over-tighten with a power screwdriver or drill). Window glass is usually available to reuse the original frame if the frame is not the welded style.

    Dwight

  10. Posted · Report reply

    One of the specific things I remember from the early days was that I felt FMCA members were "better" than the other RV clubs members because we held ourselves to a higher standard. When we held a rally, we left the grounds cleaner than when we arrived. My parents would always assist other FMCA members whenever possible, and when driving, they pull over to the side if possile to let faster vehicles pass. I still do these things today, primarily from what I learned from my childhood days with the club.

    I commend you for expressing your feelings, but I am a bit put-off by the use of the wording "better" and I follow a higher code of ethics than those RVers who don't.

    I display my member emblem proudly on the front and back of my coach, and I see a change in FMCA coming back to the codes that made us the family we were.

    Dwight, F513-S

  14. Posted · Report reply

    The original screw-on replacement blade is becoming very hard to find. This UPDATE will allow you to find a replacement wiper blade in most any business that sells wiper blades.

    Federal-Mogul owns Anco that makes windshield wiper products found in the http://ecatalog.federalmogul.com/.

    Click on Heavy Truck Picture.

    Type 4817 in part no. space.

    Enlarge picture and print copy.

    One $7.00 kit 4817 is needed for the two 9.5mm straight end windshield wiper arms.

    Dwight

  16. Posted · Report reply

    It is exactly as E-TEC describes above except on a school bus the hole is smaller for just the fuel gauge. You make the cover out of light metal a little larger then the size of the hole that you cut. Use sheet metal screws to fasten the metal cover to the wood cutout piece, a little caulking around the hole, and a few screws around the edge and the hole is resealed. (Use self tapping sheet metal screws)

    Note: Most motor homes have sewer holding tanks in this area requiring the fuel tank to be siphoned dry and lowered.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    1998 Subaru Forester. I did my own installation before leaving for Redmond Oregon last August.

    Drill the hole through the firewall and determine the best route for the cable. After you push the cable through the firewall you may see a way to improve the cable routing. Simply push it back and reroute until your satisfied. I used plastic zip ties to secure it.

    When you read the posts about all the problems they have with other systems, you will be glad you choose the Ready Brake. There is nothing to hookup, unhook or adjust inside the toad and I tested it on steepest and worst conditions that I could find in the western states.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    :rolleyes: and during the winter I leave the front door to my house wide open so that I don't have to open or close it as I go in and out.

    See the top of page 80 in the 2010 Camping world Master Catalog. It will take the LP truck longer to fill your tank one time, then it will for you to "blow out" the potable water piping. I installed a ball valve to easily drain the water heater and I use a handy rugged 120 volt electric "milk house heater" ($20 at Walmart) set at 40 degrees to heat the pump and water tank compartment if I don't drain the water tank at that time. I motor home in Minnesota winters.

    Back to page 80. To do the job right you need = c.rv antifreeze = e.blow out plug screwed on the end of your 25' water fill hose = g.pump converter winterizer kit. I believe the $79.00 installation charge should be for a complete winterize.

×
×
  • Create New...