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I have 2 Airxcel roof mounted heat pumps installed on my '07 Fleetwood Bounder. Despite the Texas heat or the chill of Yellow Stone, I've had nothing but satisfactory service from both units until just the other day. We started smelling the scent of burning electrical insulation and couldn't identify the source until I saw what I believed to be, smoke coming out of the grill of the front unit. I immediately turned the unit off, hoping and praying the #2 unit wouldn't quit - a disaster in 100+ temps and humidity in Houston, TX! I tried the unit again today in my driveway but all I could get was blowing air (cool, not cold) without any scent of burning insulation. I've been told it could be a wire to the condenser(?) that is designed to do that(!) Am I looking at having to replace the unit or might this be a simple repair?

I just got the Winegard Trav'ler SK-1000 I want to mount it on the roof of my '06 Bounder that is "Satellite Ready". I have the schematic for the location of the block but before I get too far along I like advice from anyone who has installed their own roof mounted antenna. What special tools do I need/what do I need to watch out for? I need to feed the power cord, control and at least one more coax cable to the "entertainment" center over the dash. Any advice?

If your TV was installed though the back of the cabinet you're only option may be to make yourself a small access panel that you can replace, like you said, through the wall in the bathroom. There shouldn't be any outlets on that wall but Just be careful not to cut through any electrical wires. Save the cut-out so you can glue a frame to act as a flange around the outside edges. Use your imagination on what to use (maybe a little silicon caulk) to secure it in place when you replace it. I've replaced both TVs in my coach to digital flat screen and in each case there was enough space between the front frame of the TV to get at screws holding the brackets that secure the frame to the opening of the cabinet. If you can remove the screws (usually 1 at each corner) the frame should come off giving you access to the mounting screws/bolts and brackets for the TV. If that doesn't work, look for evidence on the out side surface of the frame for hiden screw pockets. Those may be covered or filled with a plug that matches the wood color.

I did that too when I first got my Bounder. The connection in the bay is clearly labeled "Satellite Ready". That's how it worked in my travel trailer. I nearly went bald pulling my hair out till I finally ran continuity tests (touch the coupling to your tongue. If it's hot you'll know it) and discovered the "Satellite Ready" meant "wired for roof mount installation". I checked at Radio Shack for the through-the-window coax without success. I just adapted my rig by running the coax through the drivers side windshield corner panel through the engine compartment. It's been working great for 3 years and, wired through the control module, I can switch from Dish to cable or antenna between two TVs.

I want to change over from my Dish on a tripod to the Trav'Ler SK-1000 roof mounted dish. Does anyone know where it needs to be mounted so I can access the factory installed satellite coax on my '06 Fleetwood Bounder?

I want to change over from my Dish on a tripod to the Trav'Ler SK-1000 roof mounted dish. Does anyone know where it needs to be mounted so I can access the factory installed satilite coax on my '06 Fleetwood Bounder?

I want to change over from my Dish on a tripod to the Trav'Ler SK-1000 roof mounted dish. Does anyone know where it needs to be mounted so I can access the factory installed satilite coax on my '06 Fleetwood Bounder?

I've tried all those ideas but finally made the effort to run my cable through the driver side (left front corner) windshield post. In my front engine Bounder, it was as easy as pulling off the screw head covers to get at the screws (6) to take off the panel and running the coax through a hole (drilled through the left side of the entertainment cabinet) large enough for the cable to fit. I recommend you cut off the coupling for an easier feed. Feed it through without the coupling with a smaller guide wire secured with electrical tape (or lead line) through the insulation in the left front corner of the dash then out through the engine compartment. You can reinstall the coupling afterwards with a crimping or swedging tool. The cable can be secured when not in use or leave it with just a "jumper" end that can be coupled on to when you ready to set-up your dish. Just leave enough for easy access. Mine is a 25' length coiled-up and secured around the circuit breaker box. Good luck.

It's time to change the rear differential lube on my '06 Fleetwood Bounder on a Workhorse chassis (W22). The owner's manual specifies synthetic axle fluid 75-90W GL-5. Is there any particular brand you'd recommend?

Good advice. I check the electrolyte levels frequently because I worry about leaving it on the charger continuously, but only replenish with distilled water as necessary - usually once/month. I've been all over the rig with a digital multi-meter to check for voltage bleed-off (which I haven't found) but, I don't recall checking the voltage-in with the multi-meter. I check the installed voltage meter which usually reads 13.8 - 14 vdc. Thanks. I'll try that and see what the read is at the battery(ies).

That makes sense. I have been having some charging issues lately. Checks indicate that the alternator is OK and it's a brand-new chassis battery. Could a weak or failing house battery draw voltage off the system to cause the main battery to show symptoms of losing its charge? It stays plugged-in to 115vac so I have to check the batteries on a weekly basis for the electrolyte levels. Thanks.

Does anybody have experience with the Atwood Levelegs system? Can you advise me how to tell if a problem of intermittent operation is caused by a faulty control box, key pad or otherwise? Twice, but not in-a-row, the level legs failed to fully extend on my '06 Fleetwood Bounder. The first time I got a low voltage fault followed by a failure of the left rear leveler fault light. The most recent incident when they failed to fully extend, I got the fault light for the right rear leveler, but after I reset it switched to the right front leveler. In both instances the left rear leveler seemed to be the problem (not fully extending), but I can't find any evidence of any electrical short or poor ground. It doesn't blow any fuse, and after I've reset and retracted multiple times, it resumes operating normally. It could be a poor ground, but according to the diagram, all four motors are grounded on the same buss.

I'd like to change out the factory-installed level probes in the gray and black water waste tanks with Horst Dynamic non-fouling probes in my '06 Fleetwood Bounder 35E. Does anyone know how to access the tanks other than through the 6 3/4" X 14" portal inside the utility pod? Incidently, this is the access port my service tech recommended where ALL the left-side plumbing and tank drain pipes pass through.