elkhartjim

I don't have any direct experience with Black Barts but since we're leaving the Houston area next week for the Sedona/Williams/Grand Canyon area, I checked RV Park Reviews and Black Bart has a poor to at best fair reviews. http://www.rvparkreviews.com/regions/Arizona/Flagstaff.html

Azpics, Simple answer- buy a matched tire for the steer axle and use the GY for a spare. If you have room to store it of course. Whew...its so easy to spend your money.

Great info! Thanks for the post.

Be cautious with the Cranky Ape site. That is also where insurance companies dispose of their totals and Cranky Ape does not disclose the damage. If you buy online without physically inspecting the rv you may never know until you go to take delivery its a total and there is no recourse. My friends Class C was totaled, towed to Gergetown, TX from Houston. Not one mention of the damage and sold for a premium. I'm sure the buyer was sick.

Hi Deen, I'm surprised you're running that much pressure in your front tires. Is that what the tire manufacturers chart indicates for the load you're carrying or are you going off the manufacturers sticker? You may be rattling you and your passengers teeth for no good reason.

I've been thinking the exact same thing, Herman. And most no longer give a thank you flash when I signal them its safe to pull back in. I also have the side marker lights and never thought about converting to LED but now I will.

Ford does not recommend towing this vehile four down any longer. A friend towed his from Dallas to Tampa, Fl a couple years ago and Ford replaced the tranny in Shreveport, Biloxi, and Tampa on the way and Vicksburg on the way back home. The dealer bought it back from them after several months of discussions with less than 4000 miles on the odometer. As I recall, Ford's intial offer was $1000 or $1500 towards the purchase of a tow dolly. Of course they had invested more than that for a base plate and braking system. Good luck on which ever route you decide to take.

Check out the Geo Method to clean and help keep your tanks clean. There are several variations, heres a link to one. http://www.oemys-performance.com/techtips4.htm

I agree, Ernie. Unlike PVC/CPVC, I don't have to worry about the Pex piping freezing and breaking. I only wish I had the manifold system like in my sticks & bricks. A friend of mine is in the process of re-plumbing his motorhome with PEX after loosing a lot of the PVC due to freeze damage.

...and can be bought from an Aftermarket supplier for not much more than some of these "kits" sell for. The job beomes finding out which automoble light they used.

I don't know what year your C is but if it is computerized be cautious welding on the frame. You might consider disconnecting the battery/batteries at the very least. I trust the trailer will have an auxillary braking sytem also.

Not necessarily. 2" angle maybe stronger than the box tubing. How will you attach the trailer hitch to the mh?

There are numerous companies that sell this wheel. Call one of them and maybe they have the measurements you need.

BTW...not to hijack this thread but every Freightliner chassis owner should program the number Brett posted in their phone. Its answered 24/7/365 and staffed by knowledgeable personnel. 1-800-FTL Help 1-800-385-4357

I can't read the first number of the part number but you might try Googling that number and see if you get any hits. Another suggestion would be call Freightliner parts in Gafney to see about availability. Good luck.

I know you know where Texas is, Rich. Of course its forecasts to be in the 20's with possible sleet/freezing rain Thursday night, Friday morning. On the other hand, in the Houston area its 55 at 11:45 AM according to Weather Bug. Have you considered going ice fishing, Rich?

If it runs I would open a faucet and follow the sound. If it doesn't run, start in/near the plumbing bay area and/or the fresh water holding tank. Unfortunatley, there may not be many 1992 Safari Serengetti members if you're needing a specific where to look location. Have you googled for wiring diagrams? Good luck finding it, wish I could be of more help. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/SafariCoaches/info

Thats what I was trying to say...sorta. Thanks, Brett, for making it more clear.

What is your Class C rated to tow?

If your compressor is like mine, it will cycle between 100psi and 130psi. My point being, if you run pressures near or above 100psi it will take a long time to air your tires once the tank pressure gets low but not low enough to kick the compressor on. Compressor kicks on at 100 psi and builds pressure to 130psi then shuts off. It will not kick on again until pressure drops to 100psi. Thats probably about as clear as mud!

I have Centramatics on my steer axle and will have them on my drive axle prior to our next trip.

A must see: drirve the Beartooth Hwy on the east side Yellowstone. Check out this link. Mark Quasius (RVcruzer.com) has traveled and written some great articles about traveling Yellowstone. http://www.rvcruzer.com/ystonervroutes.php

I tow a 2005 Jeep Wrangler that has a locking steering wheel therefore I need to leave the key in the first on position. I'm not sure if the Cherokee has a locking steering wheel but if it does, the key must be left in an on position. If your battery is dead after towing, you may simply have a weak battery. If you're using a "brake in a box" type braking system, that will also consume battery power. You also state you tow "in neutral". I have a 2005 and 2014 Wrangler automatic and both manuals are specific that the transfer case be in neutral and the transmission be in park. If you don't have a manual, you can Goggle it.

Whew! Thanks, Brett.

My curiosity is getting the best of me...what is Sea 2014 Brooksville?