elkhartjim

Water leaks are weird. I had a puddle occasionally on the floor behind the passenger seat. It turned out it was coming from the rear a/c unit. I tightened the four bolts a few turns and it hasn't leaked in several hard rains. BTW, when I removed the inside panel, the bolts were less than hand tight. Don't over tightened.

Thanks for this post. I think I'll go get the 9mm out of the motorhome-wonder where it is, and put it back in the gun safe in the s&B's.

Maybe this will help. Its from Splendide's web site. http://www.splendide.com/consumer_tips.htm#winterization Winterization How To: If needed, follow these steps to winterize your washer-dryer. 1. With the machine power OFF, pour ½ quart of RV-type antifreeze into the washer drum 2. Close the door. Advance the Program Selector knob to a SPIN position 3. Press ON/OFF Button (IN). Wait 1-2 minutes 4. Press ON/OFF Button (OUT). Unplug the washer-dryer from the electrical outlet (or disconnect power) 5. Turn the water supply faucets OFF. Disconnect the inlet hoses from the faucets. Drain any remaining water from the hoses. Finished! Optional RV Winterization: If you’re currently pumping antifreeze through the fresh water system, follow these steps to winterize: 1. With the machine power OFF, turn the WASH TEMP knob to HOT 2. Advance the Program Selector knob to REGULAR in Cotton Heavy Duty 3. Press the ON/OFF button (IN) and let the machine fill until antifreeze is in the drum 4. Advance Program Selector to a RESET. Wait 5 seconds (Status/Door Lock LED will blink) 5. Advance Program Selector to a SPIN position. Let the antifreeze drain from the drum 6. Advance Program Selector to RESET. Wait 5 seconds (Status/Door Lock LED will blink) 7. Turn the WASH TEMP knob to COLD 8. Advance the Program Selector knob to REGULAR in Cotton Heavy Duty 9. Let the machine fill until you see antifreeze in the drum 10. Advance the Program Selector knob to RESET. Wait 5 seconds (Status/Door Lock LED will blink) 11. Advance the Program Selector knob to SPIN. Let the antifreeze drain from the drum 12. Press the ON/OFF button (OUT). Finished! To use again: Flush the water pipes, then 1. Reconnect the water inlet hoses to the corresponding HOT/COLD faucets. Turn the faucets ON. (NOTE: Check the water inlet hoses and pump periodically. Refer to the “Use & Care Guide†that came with the machine) 2. Plug the washer-dryer into an appropriate electrical outlet (or reconnect power supply) 3. With the ON/OFF button in the off (OUT) position, pour 1/2 TBSP. of powder detergent (or liquid equiv.) into the ‘Detergent’ compartment inside the Dispenser Drawer 4. Advance the Program Selector knob to an EXPRESS cycle 5. Press the ON/OFF button (IN) and allow the machine to run through the complete cycle to clean out any remaining antifreeze. Finished!

What did it "look like" when you took it back? Was the finish rough (orange peel), oxidized, dull? What kind of paint did they use? (Not brand) Base coat/clear coat? Acrylic, urethane enamel? Did they apply a sealer, if so what kind? Did you ask what they meant by bad fiberglass? Unless the fiberglass has been damaged, I'm not sure what would cause "bad fiberglass". I was in the paint and body business for many years and those are the first questions I would have.

How long do you intend to be away from the coach? Will it be stored outside? If its really cold, the furnace will suck through the propane pretty quickly. I personally would not feel comfortable leaving my coach for any extended time with the furnace running. For peace of mind, I would winterize before leaving town.

Is it possible to remove the Norcold through the entry door?

Interesting. GetMostlyAllCash (GMAC) has a different take than the RV industry does. After some research I've found that its not the propane heat its the heat period whether its electric or propane that causes the fire. There have been almost the same number of fires started when the refer is on electric as when on propane. Of course since GMAC is a paid advertiser FMCA will not have comments. I plan to call tomorrow and cancel my membership in FMCA. Any person with much experience would not only see the blatant bias in the three page commercial but the inexperience of the writer. I wish you folks well and now I understand why FMCA is struggling to gain membership.

Bottom line is we should only use the refer on propane when we are parked, not moving. I wonder what the statistics are on refer's catching fire while parked vs driving at 60 mph. Since I don't boon dock I guess I'll never need to buy propane again. I'm glad now I have heat pumps. The biggest burr under my saddle is I got duped into reading a three page advertisement from GMAC.

I just read that GMAC (get mostly all cash) says the number-two mishap is due to us driving while using propane to cool the refrigerator ["Top RVing Mishaps," May 2010 issue of Family Motor Coaching magazine]. I understand that FMCA has "partnered" with them, but isn't that a little cya on the part of an insurance company? I've been driving with the refrigerator on propane since my first 1974 motorhome. I'm a first-month member and I wonder what this is about. Did GMAC pay for a multi-page ad or is there something else going on? So far, I'm a little disappointed in FMCA.