elkhartjim

Terlingua is on the west side of the National Park and east of the state park. I would highly recommend the drive from Terlingua to Presido that follows the Rio Grande River. As I recall the hwy is FM 170...great scenery. If you should travel north from this area a night or two at the Davis Mountains state park is recommended also. Don't forget about the mysterious Marfa lights either. The star gazing program at the McDonald Observatory is great also. Enjoy the great wide open spaces and you may never see stars as bright and as close as you will will in west Texas.

Well Greg apparently we are the only two that noticed the loop hole of "if you have someone that can drive it back, you're on your on." I'm not planning to renew either as this was the only reason I joined FMCA.

The document I'm referencing with all the holes Chuck is the "policy" from the vendor not the "overview" provided by FMCA. FMCA is like ARRP wherein they just endorse various programs and reap the financial rewards. The Flying J fuel program went out the door when Pilot bought them...thats a whole different can of worms. Thanks for your input and I'm still interested in the fuel savings program and if they still have the emergency motorhome return policy.

My membership is up for renewal and I have some questions that maybe a member can answer since FMCA is unable to. 1. According to the e mail I received to renew we now get discounts on fuel. FMCA can't tell me where. 2. I got the "new and improved" benefits policy and there are more holes in it than swiss cheese. I can't tell if the motorhome return benefit is still in effect. It appears if I break my right leg three inches above my knee on a Wednesday of a full moon, etc I might be covered but then probably not because I didn't notify the insurance company within 3 minutes 8 seconds of said breakage. Any insight from members would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim

DUH!!!! Just color me eat up with the dumb a.. I did admit I was sure I was missing something but I never dreamed it was common sense. Its still January and already I've made a mistake. Thanks Bill.

I'm curious as to how he would connect the smaller generator to the charger/inverter, if that is what he is going to do. Would he by pass the coach genset some way? What happens if he is running on the 1000W genset, watching TV and his DW decides to use the hair dryer? I'm sure I'm just missing something here... John, its recommended you run the coach genset at least one hour a month under at least 50% load for exercise. At least that is what my operators manual recommends.

Two suggestions. If you're so unlevel that your wheels come off the ground you should move or like you said put some boards under them. Please don't put your jacks down on asphalt parking lots, especially in the summer as it will damage the surface. Go to the FMCA recommendations (see below) on ONP in Wally Worlds, etc for suggestions on being a good neighbor. We are going to mess around and lose this privilege if we aren't careful. Overnight parking etiquette Print Email FMCA and some of the most respected RV consumer clubs have joined together to support your right to park on private businesses’ parking lots overnight under the following code of conduct. The code pertains to establishments that permit "dry camping" on their lots. Dry camping means camping without the use of external hookups for electricity, water supply or waste disposal. Industry-Sanctioned Code of Conduct (RVers’ Good Neighbor Policy) 1. Stay one night only! 2. Obtain permission from a qualified individual. 3. Obey posted regulations. 4. No awnings, chairs, or barbecue grills outside your RV. 5. Do not use hydraulic jacks on soft surfaces (including asphalt). 6. Always leave an area cleaner than you found it. 7. Purchase gas, food, or supplies as a form of thank you, when feasible. 8. Be safe! Always be aware of your surroundings and leave if you feel unsafe. If your plans include touring the area, staying for more than one night, or necessitate conduct not within the code, please relocate to a local campground. It’s the right thing to do! Most of the complaints lodged regarding RV parking on business parking lots have to do with aesthetics and perceived abuse of the privilege. There are a variety of competing interests that were balanced to arrive at this industry-sanctioned code of conduct. As you can see, this Code of Conduct is nothing more than an RVers’ “Good Neighbor†policy. Not following the code has serious consequences and is detrimental to the rights of all RVers. Already, some municipalities have passed ordinances to prohibit parking on private business property overnight. Please do not take offense to this letter; it is only provided as a reminder that RVers must be perceived as good neighbors, or there will be more pressure to institute state, county and local ordinances to prohibit parking on private business property.

I don't know how to say this politely...you will not find go barbeque in the southeast part of the United States. Hitch your wagon and head to Texas. Its where barbeque was invented so like Bill Adams said, find that place along any back road with smoke pouring out and you'll find fall off the bone tender meat that still has texture. We don't much take to sauce to cover up the taste of good stuff either. My point...don't try to get New England clam chowder outside New England, New York pizza in Texas, seafood gumbo in California. You get my point? I once ordered barbeque in Chicago and she asked me how I wanted it cooked. I ordered a salad.

A call to Freightliner help desk could also shed some light on your problem.

Its unfortunate the OP never acknowledged the responses. There is some good information given but not knowing the exact surface the OP has can cause the problem to be much worse.

Oh well. Thanks Wayne for the corrugated education. I've never seen that type construction on a rv . So they made rv's with corrugated fiberglass panels; I had a trailer house (modular home) at the country place once that had corrugated metal siding and some of that blew off as they were delivering it. Same stuff?

I haven't a clue what corrugated fiberglass is other than what you buy a the big box stores for roofing, etc. Are you saying your walls looks like corrugated metal except its fiberglass? Honestly, I have some ideas but I've spent way too much time and effort responding on this board and never had a response.

Without the year its hard to answer but maybe you can find the answer with the Dinghy Towing Guide. http://www.motorhomemagazine.com/dinghytowingguide/

And your point is? You buying, selling or asking if they really only receive about 300 yards.

Water leaks are weird. I had a puddle occasionally on the floor behind the passenger seat. It turned out it was coming from the rear a/c unit. I tightened the four bolts a few turns and it hasn't leaked in several hard rains. BTW, when I removed the inside panel, the bolts were less than hand tight. Don't over tightened.

Thanks for this post. I think I'll go get the 9mm out of the motorhome-wonder where it is, and put it back in the gun safe in the s&B's.

Maybe this will help. Its from Splendide's web site. http://www.splendide.com/consumer_tips.htm#winterization Winterization How To: If needed, follow these steps to winterize your washer-dryer. 1. With the machine power OFF, pour ½ quart of RV-type antifreeze into the washer drum 2. Close the door. Advance the Program Selector knob to a SPIN position 3. Press ON/OFF Button (IN). Wait 1-2 minutes 4. Press ON/OFF Button (OUT). Unplug the washer-dryer from the electrical outlet (or disconnect power) 5. Turn the water supply faucets OFF. Disconnect the inlet hoses from the faucets. Drain any remaining water from the hoses. Finished! Optional RV Winterization: If you’re currently pumping antifreeze through the fresh water system, follow these steps to winterize: 1. With the machine power OFF, turn the WASH TEMP knob to HOT 2. Advance the Program Selector knob to REGULAR in Cotton Heavy Duty 3. Press the ON/OFF button (IN) and let the machine fill until antifreeze is in the drum 4. Advance Program Selector to a RESET. Wait 5 seconds (Status/Door Lock LED will blink) 5. Advance Program Selector to a SPIN position. Let the antifreeze drain from the drum 6. Advance Program Selector to RESET. Wait 5 seconds (Status/Door Lock LED will blink) 7. Turn the WASH TEMP knob to COLD 8. Advance the Program Selector knob to REGULAR in Cotton Heavy Duty 9. Let the machine fill until you see antifreeze in the drum 10. Advance the Program Selector knob to RESET. Wait 5 seconds (Status/Door Lock LED will blink) 11. Advance the Program Selector knob to SPIN. Let the antifreeze drain from the drum 12. Press the ON/OFF button (OUT). Finished! To use again: Flush the water pipes, then 1. Reconnect the water inlet hoses to the corresponding HOT/COLD faucets. Turn the faucets ON. (NOTE: Check the water inlet hoses and pump periodically. Refer to the “Use & Care Guide†that came with the machine) 2. Plug the washer-dryer into an appropriate electrical outlet (or reconnect power supply) 3. With the ON/OFF button in the off (OUT) position, pour 1/2 TBSP. of powder detergent (or liquid equiv.) into the ‘Detergent’ compartment inside the Dispenser Drawer 4. Advance the Program Selector knob to an EXPRESS cycle 5. Press the ON/OFF button (IN) and allow the machine to run through the complete cycle to clean out any remaining antifreeze. Finished!

What did it "look like" when you took it back? Was the finish rough (orange peel), oxidized, dull? What kind of paint did they use? (Not brand) Base coat/clear coat? Acrylic, urethane enamel? Did they apply a sealer, if so what kind? Did you ask what they meant by bad fiberglass? Unless the fiberglass has been damaged, I'm not sure what would cause "bad fiberglass". I was in the paint and body business for many years and those are the first questions I would have.

How long do you intend to be away from the coach? Will it be stored outside? If its really cold, the furnace will suck through the propane pretty quickly. I personally would not feel comfortable leaving my coach for any extended time with the furnace running. For peace of mind, I would winterize before leaving town.

Is it possible to remove the Norcold through the entry door?

Interesting. GetMostlyAllCash (GMAC) has a different take than the RV industry does. After some research I've found that its not the propane heat its the heat period whether its electric or propane that causes the fire. There have been almost the same number of fires started when the refer is on electric as when on propane. Of course since GMAC is a paid advertiser FMCA will not have comments. I plan to call tomorrow and cancel my membership in FMCA. Any person with much experience would not only see the blatant bias in the three page commercial but the inexperience of the writer. I wish you folks well and now I understand why FMCA is struggling to gain membership.

Bottom line is we should only use the refer on propane when we are parked, not moving. I wonder what the statistics are on refer's catching fire while parked vs driving at 60 mph. Since I don't boon dock I guess I'll never need to buy propane again. I'm glad now I have heat pumps. The biggest burr under my saddle is I got duped into reading a three page advertisement from GMAC.

I just read that GMAC (get mostly all cash) says the number-two mishap is due to us driving while using propane to cool the refrigerator ["Top RVing Mishaps," May 2010 issue of Family Motor Coaching magazine]. I understand that FMCA has "partnered" with them, but isn't that a little cya on the part of an insurance company? I've been driving with the refrigerator on propane since my first 1974 motorhome. I'm a first-month member and I wonder what this is about. Did GMAC pay for a multi-page ad or is there something else going on? So far, I'm a little disappointed in FMCA.