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  1. From experience, have learned that if you post the make, model, and even serial number of the generator, you have a MUCH greater chance at getting help. Do you have any of the original manuals? You are looking for a trouble shooting procedure.
  2. If you have a Fantastic fan(s), they move a lot of air. A little duct tape or even masking tape and a cut up garbage bag could seal off all vents such as range hood, fridge, and roof air conditioners. Don't forget the heat registers if so equipped. Passenger heat/vents up front? Ensure the traps under each sink are full of water or close the drains. If you catch a calm day, a smoke pencil or incense stick might be even more sensitive to leak detection. Might be worth the 10 to 15 minute experiment. What do you have to lose?
  3. Can you clarify something for me. Regarding the 14" spacer, was it held in place by any mechanical means or is it just a friction fit? What makes you feel that the other spacer is different than the one you have removed? If those spacers are made of any metal other than the aluminum that the hinge appears to be, there will be a galvanic action when two dissimilar metals are in contact so the long one may just be corroded into place. If that is the case, try soaking the spacer with a good penetrating spray along the length and let it soak. You may need to use a small punch and hammer to get it started. If the body moulding where the spacer is located is slotted, try using a small punch and hammer to tap all along the length of the spacer to loosen it up.
  4. Have "googled" and "binged". Have tried more generic searches. Chased down countless links and dead end streets. Still coming up empty handed. Our travel plans are on hold for other reasons but it sure seems like that new replacement board is looming. Here in Canada it's over a thousand dollars. Must be made from unobtainium for Onan to be charging that kind of money.
  5. Waiting with bated breath. Guessing that many fragile egos in the balance. But, no pressure!
  6. BUT,,,, BUT,,,, You CAN'T. I for one am waiting for you to teach us how to remove those doors. Probably another bunch lurking who have scrapes and bruises that bring back bad memories and would just LOVE to sneak a door or two into an inconspicuous repair shop. Pretty hard to keep a low profile otherwise. Who wants to hear "Hey, was that your coach I saw when driving past the body shop?" (It's a boy thing.)
  7. Anyone else have ANY kind of a circuit board repaired? There must be SOMEONE who can repair as opposed to just going with a new replacement! Maybe an indication of where society is headed - R&R - Remove and Replace - a throw away mentality. Trying to recycle but....... Sad.
  8. Post your results. Your findings will undoubtedly come in handy for others and more specifically, yours truly. And yes, they are called struts. I knew that but why did I call them cylinders?
  9. Just checked our HR. The doors under the slides seem similar except the part of the hinge mounted on the door is more of a "J" shape rather than a tube. Towards the rear, at the very end of the body mounted tube, there is a plug that is pop riveted in place. The tiny pop rivet is clearly visible. Maybe, just maybe if you drill out that rivet and remove the plug, you can slide the door out once you remove the two cylinders mounted on each door??? Had another thought - what if you open the door, remove the two cylinders from where they attach to the door and try gently pushing the door towards the coach. Will it pop out of the body mounted tube? It appears that the two cylinders not only hold the door open but also keep the two parts of the hinge interlocked by putting constant pressure outward on the door. Did not see anything else along the individual doors that could be holding them in place.
  10. Thanks but I have that manual. Have traced the problem to the control board. A replacement from Cummins/Onan is $750.60 ! As luck would have it, Flight Systems do not have a functional test for this particular board. Hoping to find someone who can do a repair.
  11. Getting fault code 35: control board 305-0953-03 failed. Other than Flight Systems, any suggestions on a repair shop that could repair the board?? Onan replacement is $$$$$$
  12. Thanks. I for one will be following up on this. Have a replacement in place on our Navigator but would prefer the brighter light of an LED.
  13. Update: Camping World: (No brand mentioned) 30' 50 amp cord with handles $132.99 club price Adventure RV: Camco 30' 50 amp cord (yellow handles) $109.99 plus shipping Amazon.com: Camco 30' 50 amp cord (yellow handles) 135.41 free shipping. These currently are the best prices I came across. Many others seem quite attached to their cords since their prices were quite uncompetitive. There maybe a quality difference but in some cases, the cords were over $200 Personally, ordered two cords with Adventure RV plus a bunch of "more stuff" as George Carlin mused. BTW, Adventure RV have a price reduction on the Progressive Industries Smart Surge 50 Amp so added one of those to the mix. Disclosure: No affiliation with Adventure
  14. Have searched archives for discussions on 50-amp cords in cold. What about in hot climes? Have had occasions where there was 50-amp service but limited access, therefore necessitating a longer cord -- e.g., fairground at a race track. Is there an optimum length for a 50-amp cord? Is there a maximum total length? Does Mr. Ohm get involved? Any tips on a good vendor for a cord or cable and ends? Wiring schematic on our coach shows shore power cord as 6/3 on a 50-amp service. Does this mean that the ground is NOT connected to anything? Appreciate direction.
  15. Up-date. Will try to keep it brief. Removed the toilet. Just two lag bolts in the floor and the water connection (finger tight) at the back. Stripped it down COMPLETELY. Let the PVC parts soak in a pail of soap and water. The clear water supply hoses required soaking and the ID cleaned with a small bottle style brush. The sliding blade mechanism was totally disassembled. Quite basic. The gears were removed, cleaned, and repacked with Lubriplate. The blade had accumulated a large wad of toilet paper at the end of it's closing travel. Some might remember the deadly spit ball! Strangely enough, it was not apparent when the toilet was in place. This paper jam had accumulated over time, each piece being impacted into the previous. When cleaned up, the slide rails for the blade were packed with Dow Corning silicon gel which is about the consistency of tooth paste. Lubed the seal as well. The toilet works perfectly. Quieter too. Better rinsing of the bowl due to more water pressure on the flush cycle since the hoses are clear of any build-up. Were quite black before cleaning. A couple coats of auto wax inside and out went a long way too. Apparently the blade was sensing the increased resistance caused by the paper build up just before closing so was reversing. Now, the blade seals perfectly so there is standing water in the bowl. Previously, even when the blade was closed manually, the paper jam was pushing the blade away from the seal, causing the standing water to slowly drain away. Also, switched the flush function at the back so that by holding down the flush button, the toilet remains open, giving more control as to when the bowl is clear before closing. Hint: Before removing the bowl, trace the outline on the floor with masking tape. Makes re-alignment much easier when reinstalling. Got lucky! Did not have to spend a dime, just a Saturday afternoon. Thanks for everyone's inputs. Gave the courage to get after it. It's a good feeling when a plan comes together and knowing the toilet is absolutely and perfectly clean, inside and out.
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