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  1. Hi all: I'm trying to hunt down an email address for one or several executives of CW. I purchased an extended warranty for a product and long story short, CW is not honoring the repair or replacement of their product. They also have referred me to Amtrust (Amtrust is presumably CW's warranty division) and I have been stone-walled. I need to send an email to someone in the CW hierarchy that can render a decision to resolve my issue. Does anyone have an email address for some executives at CW headquarters? Thanks, Rob ps. I should point out that my extended warranty is valid until November 2014.
  2. Thor makes one. http://serrano-rv.com/ Forum from another website that chats about + and -'s of FREDS. http://rv-dreams.activeboard.com/t17948359/diesel-pusher-vs-front-engine-diesel/
  3. Someone on this forum recommended this product to me and I swear by it. Could be the ticket for you as well. However, there was one pitfall for me while using this product - but I think it was more of a function of the toad and not the charger itself. I tow a 2003 Landrover Discovery II. Ignition switch needs to be set to the level "2" position. Doing this fires up most everything electrical on the LR. I found that the toad charger did a great job keeping the LR battery charged. The problem I encountered was when I had to tow during the night. I turned on the parking lights on the LR and drove a good 6 hours at night. The toad charger just couldn't keep up with the demands needed by the LR battery and the LR battery needed a trickle charge for a good two hours to get some juice back into the battery to turn over the LR. Not sure if you plan on any night time towing in which you too may have to turn on your parking lights on your CRV in order for traffic to see you. Also, not sure what load demands are placed on the CRV. In any event, I still sing praises with the toad charger, despite my little hiccup in towing during the night. This product could work for you too. http://www.lslproducts.net/ToadChargePage.html
  4. In 2010, I paid about $1,800 for a 5 year 55k mile extended warranty through the dealer - Easy Care. My rig too was new. However, My unit is more of an entry level Class A which might explain the lower price tag when compared to your price tag.
  5. You could try Bank Of The West based in CA. https://www.bankofthewest.com/ Not that they loan on MH older than 10 years, but they do a lot of MH and Boat financing. I've heard that MH older than 10 are indeed hard to finance. Sorry, but hope this lead helps.
  6. Thanks fellas! If my rig doesn't sell, I may have to see about renting it out. Anyone have feedback on rental? Rob
  7. Thanks. Need to drive the rig down to PPL. Won't give me an answer of the phone. Claim they want to conduct a thorough inspection just to make sure everything is in tip-top shape. Can't blame them, but hate to make the haul down there (from Boston) only to tell me they will give me a nickel on the dollar. Let me frame my question in another way.... Where would you look to buy an rv? What sources - other than dealer - would you consider? Thanks, Rob
  8. Anyone have any good suggestions on best place to market my RV? I've done craiglist (Boston area) and an ad will run in the November issue of FMCA. What about RV Trader or any other sources? I've phoned a few companies that claim they will purchase your RV, but frankly, they are "scalpers." I've got a website I created, so photos of the rig viewable. Thanks for any thoughts, Rob
  9. Bummer to hear of your woes. We've stayed at Apple Island Twice - in summer 2010 and summer 2011. Never had any issues. We found the staff to be helpful and friendly. New owner took over several years ago and constructed the huge club house with state of the art health fitness equipment. Also and in order to attract folks with kids, they really ramped up activities for the kids. Thanks for the update. Rob
  10. Thanks Brett: NADA still the best source to price out my rig? I've used it, but my rig has three slides and the NADA website does not recognize my unit having three slides. Also, no place enter in my VIN number on the website to determine the value of my rig? Any thoughts? Rob
  11. Our Class A is three years young and we would like to sell it. However, we do not have the title (Bank of the West). Not sure if I want to go consignment, but I could entertain the idea. Since we don't have the title, and the lender is on the West coast (we are in Boston and no lender branches in our area), how do we go about the process of completing a private sale? We're looking to break-even and not owe, so not trying to price gouge anyone. Also, we'll entertain all options from folks who have been in our same shoes of trying to sell, but not having the title in hand. Thanks, Rob
  12. One thing to consider is to make sure that your toad (with the base plate) is as parallel to the MH hitch tow bar. Your truck may sit high enough so that you may not need a drop hitch on the back of the MH. There is at best a 3 inch variance on the Y axis and just make sure you are in this variance to minimize stress on the tow bar. In the event you do need a drop hitch, don't head to your local harbor freight store or walmart store and purchase a drop hitch. Those hitches are rated for 4k pounds od towing. You'll need to spend about $100 or more and purchase a roadmaster or blue ox drop hitch. These bad boys are rated for 10k pounds of tow strength. Rob
  13. Hey Everyone: I have installed a blue ox base plate to my toad. I have a falcon all terrain tow bar. I have the "RM-031" adapter in order for the two products to be compatible for towing. I phoned Roadmaster inc. to confirm that I have all my ducks lined up for proper towing (of course, safety cables, aux brake, etc.) and they have assured me that all is well. They also stated that I no longer need the quick disconnect tow bar that was supplied by Roadmaster and that my tow bar, along with the rm-031 adapters attach directly to the blue ox base plate. Can anyone confirm this? Is everything safe? Of course, I made sure that base plate was attached properly and that I have used the provided safety cable that came with the tow bar. Is there anything else I need? I have a toad charger and lights are all set up. My precise question is to confirm that in fact, I no longer need the quick disconnect tow bar and that it is safe to tow. I'll also welcome any other advice for towing or set-up. I'm switching from front-wheels up to four wheels down, so just want to make sure I've got all my bases covered, and then some. Thanks, Robert
  14. Thanks everyone for your replies. I'm going for pigtails and I found a nice hiding spot for the dingy; in an enclosed battery compartment (towing a 2003 Landrover Discovery II). Should be comfy and dry in there and therefore, the toad controller should be away from water and other hazards. To find a nice comfy dry area in the hood of the MH is not as easy for the other controller. I will be using the chassis battery and not the house batteries for this set-up and the chassis battery area can get a little wet. Oh well....we'll see. Thanks, Rob
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