Krashpad

Put it this way the old valve was indeed tight! As I mentioned I actually started to strip the Hex Bolt part So I got it out using a "Stripped Bolt Extractor"( fits over the top of the stripped bolt) I got from the auto parts store. So the next time after breaking the valve I had to go get an "Extractor tool" (that gets hammered into the inside of the broken valve) , also from the auto parts store. Both times used penetrating oil. Use an "adjustible wrench' or "Tap" wrench to work the broken valve out. The whole time I was working on the Dryer "ON" the coach. I did have the jacks down but only at ground contact and did not raise them up after discharging the air bags. Good luck, the Extractor tools worked as advertised and it was the first time I have had to use these kind of tools.

Yep, new part installed. Tested for leaks and operating as it should. What an experience and why would one chassis tech give me Inch Pounds and the part manufacturer give me foot pounds? I'll never know but lesson learned once again. Thanks for all the tips.

Yes, I released all the air in the system, drew a little blood on the way out from the front after pulling the lanyards. That should of told me how things would go. The wrong part that was in the Dryer was in "Very" tight. I actually began to strip the hex and stopped. I got another wrench and carefully tried again. I ended up stripping the bolt after getting half of the former part out (it was a 2 part piece). I had to go to the auto parts place and get a "stripped bolt" extractor tool. That worked. Next I put in the new part (KN31529) which was verified by a FCCC tech to be the correct part. I also asked him as to what torque to install it and he said to tighten to between 144-192 in. lbs. of torque. So as I tightened this part at around 60 ft- Ibs. It broke right in half. Not kidding. Back to the parts store this time to get the extractor tool that goes inside the bolt (the last one fit over the bolt). So if there was any good news at the end of the day ,I got that one out also without any (apparent) damage to the dryer and I will head out today to find another part and try again. I think Mr.fccc gave me the wrong torque because that certainly felt like too much.

I am having the same problem with my Freightliner chassis(09) Tiffin with the PURest air dryer. I actually had the problem on the road last month and a mobile repair guy changed out the purge valve, however it appears he changed it out with a valve for a different dryer and although it worked for a while it now is acting up again, this is how I discovered he used a purge valve rated at 150psi and the Freightliner guy said I need the 200 psi valve (size of a thumb) . So I am headed under the coach tomorrow to change it out. Any other tips before I head under? I had one concern and that was whether to build up the airbags and raise the rear end up with jacks prior to going under(to get more clearance) but what about the air in the dryer prior to taking off the valve, do I bleed it off and how?

My unit was faulty out of the box and wouldn't recognize the usb cable or anyother connections. Camping World changed it out at the store and the new one works like a charm. Seems to have all the bells and whistles

OK I'll give that a try Herman. The only reason I feel this may not be the case is that I've had it on wall charger, vehicle charger and also the USB to Laptop connection they also included and the one thing that makes me feel (now) that I have a bad unit is that when I had it plugged into the laptop through the usb I never got the unit to show up as one of the connected items on my laptop. I didn't put one and one together at that point but now realize that this was also a problem "seeing " the unit as far as the computer was concerned. Makes sense to me now , but before I didn't think along the lines of a bad connection right out of the box. At this point I will be pulling through Kissimmee FL on Monday and might just return the unit for a new one at the CW where I bought this from online. Anyone else have any other ideas?

I am trying to troubleshoot what seems to be a connection (battery) problem I plug in the little usb to both the wall charger and the vehicle charger and no indication what so ever of a charge. Then after about 1/2 hour down the road I get a low battery warning and then thats that. Rand is closed on weekends so here I am. Seems to be no way to open up the unit to check battery, anyway maybe I got a lemon.