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thrushl

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Posts posted by thrushl

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Bill et. al.

    Thanks to all of you, I think I have joy tonight and am on my way to correcting my situation. Here is what we think we know:

    1. I purchased a SK-SWM3 from Amazon three months ago and had it shipped overnight to the local installer. Got the receipt and everything.
    2. The local guy, nice but not the sharpest knife in the drawer installed the antenna (without me ever seeing it) and everything worked so he was happy. Not knowing any better, I could watch TV, I was happy.
    3. Three months pass and the controller doesn’t talk to the antenna anymore.
    4. Thanks to Bill, I was able to do some troubleshooting to determine that it wasn’t simple.
    5. I lost my climbing campsite buddy so I was a little stuck. Wheelchairs and canes do not go well on RV roofs I’m told.
    6. I saw a regular DIRECTV man driving by and flagged him down, told him my woes, and put my best sad face on while asking for help.
    7. God was with me. He saw my disabled vet license plate, screamed Semper Fi and took off for the roof of the RV. After he got done cursing and mumbling, he informed me that:
      1. I had a SK-3005 NOT a SWM3
      2. He wanted to know what FOOL destroyed such a wonderful antenna with their !@&^#$@$!
      3. He called the man who installed my antenna, explained what he thought of his work as only a Marine can do, and then started getting to the truth.
      4. The installer had never seen a SWM3 before
      5. He did not read the instructions
      6. He threw away all the other parts in the box because my old ones worked.
    8. I called Amazon and started talking to them. Clearly 90 days is outside their 30 return window. Part way through the conversation my DIRECTV man took my phone and in a very direct but professional way explained to the Amazon rep what she would do…
    9. Amazon gave me an on the spot refund for the original antenna even before I return the old one.
    10. Amazon is shipping a NEW SWM3 Priority First Overnight with a promise I will have it by 10am in the morning. They applied the refund to the new antenna so I had none of my money moving and they did not change me for shipping.
    11. My DIRECTV man, John will be here at 10am to install my antenna properly as he put it….and then put the old one in the box and ship it back to Amazon for me.
    12. I was in tears that this man would show an interest in an old dog and his problems…. I tried to pay him for his efforts tonight and he almost slapped me for insulting him. He said that if he doesn’t take care of me that a thousand Devil Dogs would haunt him forever. I did find out that he is a company man and not a contractor so I can’t call and put in a good word for him without taking the risk of getting him in trouble. I will have to let God take care of John!

    God bless John, and the United States Marines…

  4. Posted · Report reply

    If you can get the kid to go back up again, there is a cover plate with 4 screws directly above where the coax connections meet at the roof. Unscrew these and lift the plate and gasket off. Reach inside for the center black control wire and GENTLY pull until you see where there is a quick connect. Disconnect and reconnect this coupler a couple of times as well and if you have some, apply a small dab of di-electric grease in the fitting before final reconnection.

    Give it another try.

    By the way, I am assuming you are still getting a message that says "No Antenna communication". If you are getting any other message, do not do the above procedure and let me know what error message you are seeing.

    Thanks Bill. I will see what I can talk him into tomorrow. Yes, the message remains the same. Thanks again for both your assistance and advice.

    Most Respectfully;

    Leo

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Boy it sure sounds bad based upon this information. If you can get on the roof you should have 1 single LNB housing (the SWm3 LNB) and it will have a square green label in the bottom right corner. There will also be only one coax that connects to the top of the antenna base. There should be 3 ports on top. One will have a coax cable connected and the other 2 ports will be capped. At the very base of the antenna there should be only 3 outputs available and only one coax leaving the base which must be connected to port C the same port used at the top of the base. The old style Trav'ler would have had 4 connection ports and all ports could have been used. You cannot simply swap out the LNB and convert an old Trav'ler to a new Trav'ler. Instead you add a SWM8 kit to convert the old to the new.

    Let me know more.

    Well, it's offical - I was HAD!!! No green sticker. three coax and one connection capped. I'm a 100% disabled vet and can't do the roof, so I asked another younger RV'er in the park here who was glad to help me.

    While up there he unplugged, checked for clean, clean, and rconnected. Still no joy... I repeated the first procedure you gave me and still no joy.

    Are we at the point of paying another $1,600 and trying ANOTHER install? God, I don't have the money for that, but the TV, computer, and Ham radio is about all I have these days.... other than the wife and cats...

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Well, no joy Bill. I took my time and tried these steps several ways. With delay, without delay, etc.

    Is it posible they just put the new turrent and reflector on with the old LNB?

    The control box in the coach has certainly not changed as it is still veloco'ed to the little rack I made to hold it to get air around it 360 degress and the dust had not been touched. :-)

    Your response makes me more confidant I got screwed. The whole idea of buying the complete antenna was to go to the new technology and get the warrenty. Old parts equals no warrenty and a big wast of 600+ dollars over the cost of just a new turret.

    All that said, it will cost me a LOT more than $1,600 to drive a DP back accross the coutry to fight with them.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    OK, I was on the road and my Traveler 3005 died. Winegard said "new turent" but recommended I just put in a SWM to get the warranty, etc. So, I ordered one from Amazon (locals did not have either onhand), had it the next day and the local RV shop installed it. I had TV again.

    Here is what I bought:

    Winegard SK-SWM3 TRAV'LER Gray DIRECTV SWM Slimline Antenna

    Brand Winegard

    Item Weight75.4 pounds

    Product Dimensions46 x 27 x 13.8 inches

    Item model numberSK-SWM3

    Manufacturer Part NumberSK-SWM3

    Well, I had direct TV. BUT the antenna control box in the coach and the cable is the same as before. Doesn't a NEW antenna system for 1,600 dollars come with that? If not, where/how do I buy one if I need one?

    Second, my Direct TV boxes do not see it as a SWM.

    I'm starting to think I got ripped off here.

    Finally, today when I try to raise the antenna it says that the control box in the coach can't find an antenna. Is there a fuse or something? Everything worked great when I stowed it and the coach has not moved.

    What do you think I should do? I hate to go all the way back to CA to ***** at them to fix it because I am in Virgina now, but...

    Thank you SO much in advance for your advice.

    Most Respectfully;
    Leo

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I copy this from the 3000 MH and 4000 MH owners manual.
    HIGH FLUID TEMPERATURE
    The transmission is considered to be overheated when any of the following
    temperatures are exceeded:
    Sump fluid 121˚C (250˚F)
    Fluid to cooler 149˚C (300˚F)
    Retarder out fluid 165˚C (330˚F)
    If the sump fluid temperature reaches 128°C (262°F) the ECU will inhibit operation
    in the higher ranges
    If the transmission overheats during normal operations, check the fluid level in the
    transmission. (Refer to the Fluid Check Procedures as described in the CARE AND
    MAINTENANCE section starting on Page 28 of this handbook.)
    If the engine temperature gauge indicates a high temperature, the transmission is probably
    overheated. Stop the vehicle and check the cooling system. If it appears to be functioning
    properly, run the engine at 1200–1500 rpm with the transmission in N (Neutral). This
    should reduce the transmission and engine temperatures to normal operating levels in
    2 or 3 minutes. If temperatures do not decrease, reduce the engine rpm.
    If the engine temperature indicates a high temperature, an engine or radiator
    problem is indicated. If high temperature in either the engine or transmission
    persists, stop the engine and have the overheating condition investigated by
    maintenance personnel.

    Looks like an "F" or "C" issue.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the info Leo.

    I am having a similar problem with no DC to the main fuse panel in the bedroom of my 1998 Monaco Dynasty. After tapping on a few relays in the rear main DC panel, I thought I heard a relay click in the drivers side front DC panel outside the coach. Sure enough, the lights came on inside. I then turned the DC switch at the stairway off and back on and lost DC power again. After tapping in the back again the lights came back on.

    My question to you, Leo, is was the corrosion you cleaned off visible? And did you hear any relays operate after cleaning the terminals.

    Thanks for anyone's help.

    I'm a new member and think the forums are great.

    B.J.

    Welcome to the group. Glad you got it figured out.

    Actually, the copper didn't look all green like a dirty battery terminal. It was just dull. Yes on the relay and lights.

    I got some DC4 from the hanger and put it on the exposed connections at the main points. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that before. We use it all the time on the airplane for the same thing. You can get if off amazon if you want some. Not to bad a price.

    Cheers

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Assume these cables connect to the inverter(s).

    If so, you need to determine maximum amp that you will be carrying AND total roundtrip distance from battery positive to inverter and inverter to battery negative.

    Then, go to one of the many wire size/amp capacity tables to determine the proper minimum wire size using the 3% drop tables.

    An excellent source of large-gauge high quality cable is welding supply companies. And, many can swedge the proper ends on for you-- it does require special tools.

    Just put "welding cable" in your search engine and you will find some great sources.

    One other way to tell is to find out the largest gauge cable that will fit in your inverter's connections if they are designed to clamp on the cable rather than use a fastener.

    Brett

    Thanks Brett.

    I knew this was your lane. I need both intra-battery cables and cables to the inverter. The inverter uses posts so test fitting will not work. My fuzzy math says total MAX MAX MAX AMPS worse case is 290. The longest cable run is approx 10ft with slack and routing.

    I tried to use one of those tables you referenced and if I can read, it says 2/0.

    With those numbers, does 2/0 sound about right?

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Alright friends, dumb question that all ya smart types know off the top of your head.

    Ok, I need to replace the battery cables on my house batteries. Why? The ends are falling off and they look "cheap." I don't like ugly cables....

    I have 16 220AH 6V AGMs wired in series/parallel. They are in two eight battery banks feeding two Xantex SW3012 inverters in a stacked configurations. Please, don't ask why... (Hint...DW like POWER)

    Normally, this should be easy, EXCEPT Monaco failed to use battery cable that was labeled. They probably save money by buying it without the proper markings.... :-)

    OK, this is big stuff but how big I don't know. I'm guessing 2/0 or 3/0 SGT.

    Am I close? As you know, some of these are real short cables so I can't go lo large or I will never be able to bind them enough to install them.

    Thanks in advance for the wisdom.....

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I wonder how many think about the fact that a tire running higher pressure can carry more load than one with lower pressure. If an inner dual runs hotter due to less cooling air it obviously can carry a bit more load. OD growth differences are essentially meaningless on steel body radials.

    Road crown is already managed with the Load tables that give lower load rating for tires in dual application.

    I would rather have TPMS that would warn me as soon as a tire started to loose a few psi rather than have one tire sacrifice part of its load capacity to try and keep its mate inflated when there is a slow leak due to a puncture or valve leak.

    Well Tireman9, I got to agree with you on that point. In my case, I have the TPMS monitor on the crossfire. It only uses one sensor for both tires per side. I set the alert on the TPMS very tight so I should be able to catch a slow leak as you rightfully highlight.

    I'm thinking that this approach will give me the best of both capabilities.

    You think I am missing something?

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Hello dear friends.

    This is something I learned this week that many of you probably already know. However, on the chance that it helps one person, here it is ...

    Like most diesel pushers, I have a high-amperage DC panel in the rear of the coach and a DC fuse box in the front. There are FOUR heavy-gauge wires that supply the DC Fuse box from the DC in the rear.

    During troubleshooting to see why I had no DC power to two on the fuse panels in the front DC Fuse box, I found that TWO of the feeds from the rear came from the coach batteries/electrical system and the other TWO feeds come from the high -amperage distribution of the HOUSE DC power system. Surprise, Surprise, Surprise. That is NOT what the wiring diagram for my 2005 Holiday Rambler Navigator shows. Go figure. They built it different than the diagram? Clearly these power cables were installed when the coach was built. I called Monaco and was going through what I found. They had the same wiring schematics I had, but stated that they were not surprised about the difference. Ummmmmm???

    The PROBLEM causing the loss of DC Power to many things including the coach door locks, turn signals, leveling system, etc. was two corroded cable connectors in the rear panel. I DON'T have any idea how they got corroded, after all I have never cleaned them over the past 12 years .. B) A little wire brush action and electrical cleaner, and I had power again.

    So the moral of the story: my coach is NOT wired like the wiring diagram says, and connectors need to be clean (at least once every 12 years or less <_< ).

    With best wishes for all,

    Leo

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Leo !!

    Do you have an awning or LED lighting issue?

    Sounds like a needle in a very large haystack. Now the key question is, did you have the problem when the coach was purchased?

    Got to start somewhere: Do your awnings extend or LED's light when on shore power, generator and when the inverter is running or just a particular set up?

    What model Inverter do you have?

    Thinking you may not have any friends on the page if you keep coming up with all these oddball problems :D

    Good to know you are still out there running around again.

    Rich.

    Rich. Hello good Sir. It is so great to know that we can sleep while the smartest of us are thinking.

    What would all you SMART guys do with all your time if we don't find things for you to think about??? "Big Smile" :D

    I have LEDs and no issues. The OP needs to make sure they have the right type of LEDs. Some don't take well to any power fluctuation such as when the residential compressor kicks in.

    I do have the awning thing happening, BUT and I say BUT ( :--) it only happens when my house batteries are low. In that case, they will occasionally open part way and then close on their own after a short period.

    I tool me awhile to track down that it ONLY happens when I have LOW battery voltage. In my case, under 11.5, which of course I try to avoid. However, ......... Oops happen eh?

    I only jumped in the find out how to find a ground loop if that is the issue. The simple fix for me is to make sure the house batteries are properly charged and the genny "auto start" is turned on. :blink:

    With the greatest respect;

    Leo

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Kaypsmith,

    Welcome to FMCA.

    The issue or problem you described in your post is referred to as a ground loop.

    I must admit that I have not considered the issue while posting on the FMCA group web page. It is a common issue in large control systems, hospital and school call in systems

    .

    However ! it is very possible, with the number of electronic systems and low power devices now being used on coaches and I'm almost willing to bet that none of the coach manufactures have taken ground loops, due to wiring protocol into account.

    This was a very astute observation on your part.

    Well done!!!

    Rich.

    I don't really know about Gerard awnings, but I have had a similar problem with led lighting. While trying to isolate the problem, I found the inverter had an issue with grounding.

    Solution was to make sure that no ground wire in the coach accidentally bonds with the coach, or that the ground wires do not bond with the neutral wires. When I refer to ground wire, I mean the green wire, or any bare copper wire. And the neutral wire is of course the white wire. Your coach and every appliance should treated as an appliance. I was having an issue with led lights being partially on when the inverter was on. When I found the culprit, there was a bond in the transfer switch at the generator terminal, I removed that bond, and everything works correctly now. Hope you find your problem soon, and it is an easy fix.

    OK friends. I have this very issue and have looking for it over a year.

    How do I chase this down?

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I believe those numbers are from a Holiday Rambler club. They have several Holiday Rambler groups you can join, similar to the FMCA chapters.

    You can browse the FMCA chapters by going to the following address: http://www.fmca.com/chapters/chapter-search

    You can select by a certain search word, area of the country, or even by state.

    Good Luck!

    Right you are good Sir. Those are our HR Club numbers.

    Cheers

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