wtbuck12
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Posts posted by wtbuck12
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Thanks for the opinions. Sounds like I'll be adding air before heading home.
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Looking for opinions. Left south Louisiana with temperature in the 80's arrived in North Carolina with temperatures in the 30's. Needless to say, tire pressures in the morning are considerably lower, should I adjust back to 95/90 psi or run as is?
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What about using automatic transmission fluid like Dexron III?
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1 hour ago, richard5933 said:As they used to say in grade school, always show your work. Here's mine:
Using tireman9's formula, I have calculated that the front tire pressure would be 95psi and the rear would be 90psi. How'd I get those numbers?
I took the axle weights and multiplied by 0.53 to get the axle end weights. This provides a 3% buffer to account for side-to-side variance. Then I split that number again to find the calculated wheel weight. I used the calculated wheel weight and the charts from the manufacturer to find the recommended tire pressure. I rounded UP to find this number. Then I added a 10% inflation buffer, which I rounded up since most gauges only show larger marking at increments of 5psi.
Anything higher wouldn't be justified by the numbers and will likely result in harsher ride and poorer handling. Of course, you'll need to tweak these numbers to suit your particular driving likes/dislikes.
Those are the numbers I came up with originally. Then I to add a little langnape.LOL I will probably end up between the two numbers. Thanks for you through presentation.
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38 minutes ago, manholt said:I have found that what tireman recommends, is not written in stone! It all depends on load and temp, nothing is constant and if your at 115 psi + 10% = 126.5 psi, that's 1.5 psi over the max cold tire pressure! As you drive, your tire psi will increase, how much depends on several factures, but basically it's outside ambient temp, road surface temp, humidity...I use 5% in Summer and 7% in winter!
My coach, when we are on the road, average weight is 63,500+/- lbs + toad. I run 365/80/22.5 steer axel at 115 psi, 315/80 on drive at 100 psi and same on tag! My liquid cap is 200 fuel, 140 fresh water (normally 80%), empty gray & blake (80/60). That is the tires that Spartan use on their K3 chassis! My CCC is 71,000 lbs!
In 54 years and 18 Class A's, I've had 3 blowouts! That was before radial tires and all 3 was front right.
Thanks for your input.
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1 hour ago, richard5933 said:A little over for a buffer is a good thing. Aside from allowing for temperature swings, it helps accommodate for side-to-side imbalance. On the other hand, over inflating tires too much can contribute to poor handling and poor braking.
Agree, thanks for your input.
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14 minutes ago, frank.bergamo said:Without weighing each individual corner, a 5 psi bump is a good idea. It allows for one side of the axle to be a little bit heavier and still not be under inflated. Hope this helps.
Thanks, that's what I was thinking. I would rather be over than under but not excessively.
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57 minutes ago, richard5933 said:See page #102 of this Goodyear publication for the load & inflation chart for your size tire:
Sounds like you may be inflating slightly higher than necessary based on the weights you listed.
Thanks for the feedback, I was allowing 5 psi for a safety margin. Is that a bad idea?
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Not sure if I'm figuring this correctly. I installed a set of Goodyear Endurance LHS 295/75R 22.5 load range H on my MH and am trying to figure pressure. The front axle weight is 10,420 lbs and the rear is 18,260. I figured 105 psi in the front and 95 psi in the rear should be a safe margin. Does that sound correct, if not what would be the correct pressures?
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Thanks moonwink, I appreciate the response, I will definitely do that.
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I have not tried any removal methods yet, was hoping for some feedback before doing more harm than good. I would agree with the old age cause, the wheels are 14 years old, and the problem is not on every lug. I will take some pics tomorrow.
Has anyone ever tried SharkhiDe spray, someone else suggested that as a coating after removal of the oxidation.
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I have coated aluminum wheels on my 06 Charleston and the manual says not to use abrasive cleaners. Recently I noticed an accumulation of white oxidation around some of the lug nuts. My question is how to remove it and prevent it from returning? Any feedback appreciated.
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Unless there is air trapped in the pressure line, the response time should be minimal. Oil does not compress significantly and 50 psi on one end of the tube should transmit to the other end quickly.
Just my opinion
Ronnie
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I had a similar looking pair of wipers on a 2000 Holiday Rambler and was able to pick them up at Oriley Auto Parts. Maybe take one off and bring it with you to a parts store.
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If I read the post correctly, he was asked what he wanted to do and when did it work last. He stated, "HE wanted to fix it" and it worked "two weeks ago". Is that correct? I am having a similar problem and waiting for an answer.
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Could it be where the passing lane ends and mergers into one lane?
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Thanks tireman9, I appreciate the information.
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1 hour ago, tireman9 said:"more fuel efficient" than what tire? Do they carry the EPA "Smart way" seal?
Really don't know, I was only repeating the Goodyear propaganda. That's why I was asking if anyone on this forum had any experience with these tires.
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2 hours ago, FIVE said:Where are they made?
USA
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Did a search and found lots of posts on trailer tires, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with Goodyear Endurance lhs tires on a motorhome? I need to replace the tires on my Charleston and am looking at these Goodyear tires 295/75 22.5 load range H. They claim to be smooth riding and more fuel efficient.
Any comments will be appreciated. -
Thanks Herman.
Thanks kaypsmith, I didn't misunderstand your post, they have two air systems. The original system does not use the vacuum booster but their new 2.0 system does use the vacuum booster. I was looking at the 2.0 system.
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Update: Spoke with M&G, I was looking at the wrong system. I was lookin at their new 2.0 system, and what I need is the original system, it doesn't use the vacuum booster.
Thanks for you inputs.
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16 minutes ago, kaypsmith said:The M&G system uses air from the coach's pneumatic brake system, pushes that air to a chamber installed on the hydraulic master system in front of the vacuum brake booster. I use one on my Jeep and like Joe said, it works great. Took me a day with many rest stops in between.
But they talk about installing a vacuum pump under the hood to keep a vacuum on the brake booster. My truck doesn't have a vacuum brake booster, it has hydraboost, which operates off of hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump. I tried to call M&G but couldn't get through, will try again tomorrow.
New Floor
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Looks awesome! Got me thinking. 🙄