Homesteader

Thanks for trying John. Not sure what the issue with the email as I received emails all day. I will call if I have any problem but have to hit the road Friday, so I am going to repair as you did. That will be a proper fix. My thoughts anyway. Thanks again, Garry

Thanks John, It sounds like you mounted yours the way they should have been when the coach was built. I would feel a lot better doing the same as you have done. If you wouldn't mind sending me the drawings, I would sure appreciate it. Thanks again for your input, Garry

I am thinking probably wood embedded in the fiberglass. I agree a metal plate would be preferred but I don't think so with what look to be wood screws by what thread I can see between the base and wall of MH. Thanks for the nail polish tip, I would never thought of that. I will let you know I make out. Thanks again, Garry

Thanks Kay, That is what I was planning tomorrow. I pretty well had it figured out and like I mentioned, was only concerned about wrecking something but thought road grime and time might be my culprit. I will let you know how I make out. I see on the drivers side that these are actually screws and not bolts that hold the base on. Would you think that it would be wise to use some type of loc tite product or is there anything recommended or even possible to work with the screws going into fiberglass that would prevent this from happening in the future? Garry

Hi racer, No caps or screws on the outside of these mirrors. A form fit chrome plastic shell covers the whole mount. If the screws were exposed I wouldn't require all the disassembly to tighten them. I see some styles have the bolts or screws exposed and then covered with individual caps as you explained. Thanks, Garry

Thanks Rich. it says in the service bulletin to turn the mount 90 degrees to allow a tab to fall out of a groove that keeps the arm in the mount. that would be fine with a mirror assembly coming out of a box on the counter, but pretty difficult when it is mounted on the MH. LOL, I wasn't planning on laying it over just yet.

Thanks for the reply Rich, I had found what info you sent me, but what I am needing is how to properly disassemble the arm from the mount, as the arm as to come off to remove the chrome plastic shell (covering mount) to expose the screws that hold the mirror to the MH. These screws are backing out and would like to tighten them up. The whole mirror assembly is fine, just coming loose from the body of the MH. Thanks, Garry

Good day, My mirror mounts are coming loose from the body. I may be wrong but I thought if I took the bolt out that holds the arm to the mount, that the chrome shell would slide off the mount and expose the screws that actually hold the mount to the body. I realize there will be wiring involved for the power mirror head and also the turn signal. I removed the 7/16x 4 bolt and the arm is still tight. I am thinking it could be just road grime and time itself that seems to have the arm tight to the mount, but before I started applying too much pressure to separate the arm from the mount and wreck something, I thought I would ask to see if anybody has had a mirror replaced or tightened up that could explain what I might be doing wrong, or if my thoughts of how it comes apart are incorrect. Maybe I just need a Bigger Hammer Garry

Just to add to the discussion, the reference to an engine compression brake being commonly called a Jake brake, is because Jacobs was the first to design and manufacture this device. As a point of interest it was by accident that it worked as a braking system, as the original purpose was to keep the operating temperature up on engines in west coast logging trucks while descending long hills that would normally cool right down.

Not viable for long distance. If you replaced all your cargo area with tanks on a 40' DP you could get about 4 hrs. of highway driving, and unless they have improved the compressors on these filling units you could spend more than an hour refueling. Works good for city p&d trucks.

Well Mario, that was my 2 cents worth. I do feel that their is good and bad with all we have to deal with, but at the end of the day you will settle with what you feel comortable with. Being new to this myself I imagine there will be some trial and error. Not trying to steer you on to my way of thinking, just letting you know how I came to the decisions I did. I really did hope some more replies from seasoned rv'rs would have added their experiences to your request. Good luck with whichever system you choose. I will let you know how mine works after installation and would be intereted in hearing on how you make out. Thanks, Garry

I have ordered a M & G system. Similar to air force, but a simpler set up as far as components used. This seemed to be the proportional braking system I was looking for. Hopefully you will get some better replies of pros and cons of each system from more veteran RV'ers. Not knocking the Air Force unit as I haven't actually used either one. As an old trucker, the M & G was the closest to what I wanted c/w a simple break away option that I preferred. I will tell you more next year. LOL Good Luck, Garry

Hi mrgagnon, My wife has a new 2012 F150 4x4 Supercrew that we bought in Jan. We didn't realize it could be towed until we started looking for a toad and proper tow bar. Started seeing base plates listed for 2012 F150's. Went to the truck and got the manual, and sure enough there was a page dedicated to kick the transfer case in neutral. On to your request for info..........We just this past week end installed a Demco dominator base plate, took the tow bar, and travelled 800+ miles to pick up our MH. Hooked the truck up and towed it back 800 miles without incident. Easy to disengage transfer case, and easier to engage and ready to drive. Everybody has their own likes and dislikes as what they would like to tow, but we already had the truck and are very pleased with the set up. We are towing with a 2005 Safari with a 350 Cat. Originally I was thinking we would want a 400 HP unit, but the 350 did just fine. Not saying I wouldn't mind having 400 HP, but the 350 is enough to not hold up traffic. Hope this helps, Good Luck, Garry

Hello Dwight, I do pay close attention to the words of the other motorhomers, but nobody answered my concerns on the actual operation of the system. I thought my questions were reasonable and not some crazy idea or notion. I did do some more research, and nothing against the Redi Brake except that I wasn't convinced by replies that simply said it was good, I read one of Herman Mullins comments on the M & G (which I hadn't heard of before) and after checking their web site, decided that was exactly what I was looking for. I did order it and will hopefully be pleased with its operation. Once it is installed it looks to be a very practical and simple system to give me proportional braking which is the what I wanted in the end. Thanks for your reply and Happy RVing Homesteader.

I almost ordered a Ready Brake system this morning. But I convinced myself that I would have to see it perform first. I can't imagine this softly applying the brakes on your toad on a long 2-3 mile grade. I visualize the toad hopping behind the MH like a rabbit. (maybe exaggerated) As the toad pushes on the surge system which in turn starts applying the brakes to the toad. When the brakes are applied the toad pulls back releasing the brakes and the toad gains speed activating the brakes again, and the sequence continues until you pick up speed with the MH. I can see it working perfectly when you are slowing down or actually slowing to come to a stop, but not when you are maintaining your speed down a long hill with the proper gear and using the engine brake and the weight of the toad and the grade alone are activating the brakes. Seems that it would be on, off, on, off...... If someone who has one could explain what I am missing, I would welcome their experiences. Also not sure how in a tight spot where you would have to back up to complete a corner such as pulling in or out of a service station how you could do this without sending your wife back to unhook the cable, othewise if the system works as it should, all 4 wheels on the toad should be skidding when trying to back up. Garry (still learning)