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Bathurstj

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About Bathurstj

  • Birthday 12/11/1940

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  • Website URL
    http://www.wellalldieasmarines.co

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Illionis
  • Interests
    Raising Siberian Cats, Author
  • I travel
    With Pets

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  1. Update: Just got off the phone with a very knowledgeable and helpful tech from Xantrex. He looked up my batteries (Interstate SRM 24), and did some calculations. He said my batteries are 70 ah, and my bank is; therefore, 280 amps. He recommended I do not reprogram my inverter, but leave it on auto and after several cycles it will reset the amps on it's own. Also, he said those batteries will work fine as long as I take care of them as I did the others, they will last a long time based on the type of RVing we do today. Again, thanks guys. S/F, Jim
  2. I thank everyone for your sage advice and comments. It is true the decision has already been made, I bought 4 Marine/RV deep cycle 12V batteries for the price of one 6V deep cycle - it was a going out of business sale, and they are Interstate (I will not buy anything but an Interstate). I have a Bass Boat and both start and trolling batteries are Interstate, and they are eight years old. As I stated earlier, I am one of those strange ducks that akes care of his batteries, thus the reason both my two diesel start 12V's and my four 6V batteries have lasted for 11 years in all sorts of weather. I also attribute their life to my Inverter (Xentra); I check water levels on the first of of every month religiously, and I keep them spotless. I am fully self-contained with an Onan 7.5 Diesel generator; therefore, I rarely use the house batteries via the Inverter. We use the MH less these days than we did years ago (my age, not the MH), and we no longer dry camp except to stay at Cracker Barrel overnight when we are in a hurry to get somewhere, and then I use the generator So, in summary, if these batteries last me for half or less than the four 6V's, I am way ahead. At my age, I probably won't be around in 11 years so I could care less if they don't last that long. LOL I am somewhat confused over John's comments about RC. The brochure on the batteries states: ReserveCapacity-25: 140.00 So, I assume, as John states, that 140 is minutes, not amps, but how did you come up with "that suggests an 80 ah battery at a 20 hour rate. If that is correct, you are looking at a 360 ah battery pack"? I come up with 320 ah for the four battery pack?? Again guys, thanks much for helping out an old Marine Semper Fi, Jim
  3. Read my Xentra manual and I should reset the RC amperage. Each battery is 140 RC X 4 = 560 amps. The setting levels are 500 and 1000; nothing in between so I plan on calling Xantrex Monday and ask which one I should use. According to the manual the inverter will adjust automatically after several charges/discharges, but they recommended it's best to reset it close manually. My one question I am trying to find the answer to is in order to hook the bank in parallel, do all four batteries attach in a "complete circle" For example: Positive posts, 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 and back to 1 (or stop at the four and not go back to 1)? I know that sounds like a dumb question, but want to be sure.
  4. Thanks Wolfe 10. Yes they are the start/deep cycle Interstates, But you'd be shocked at the price I paid for them; it was 1/4 of what I would have paid for 6V Interstates; they were a going out of business sale. So, I will install them, and if they last two - three years it's OK with me. So, to continue your comments, I will have to reprogram my Xantrex to be handle the increase amps? BTW, I do have the temperature sensor attached to one of the current 6V's.
  5. After 11 years, my 4 - 6V Interstate house batteries finally died (i'm one of those strange ducks that takes care of his batteries). Found a heck of a deal on four new 12V Interstate Marine/RV deep cycles. They will fit as they are almost the same exact size as were my 6V's. I realize I can hook them in parallel and still have 12V, but will increase the amps, which is my concern. Will my Xantrex Invertor need to be reprogrammed or will it handle the amps as is? I would not even conside this, but the deal I got on the 4 Interstates was too good to pass up
  6. He did do a vacuum test and it held. Thank you for your come back and your comments on service, Semper Fi; JB
  7. 2006 Kountry Star 3910 w/ Cummins ISL 350. Chassis AC worked great until last year (Jan 2012) on winter trek to FL. No cool air, suspected low freon, had a AC repairman look at it, checked for leaks, recharged it. Worked fine returning from winter trek (Mar 2012) Used the rig in September 2012, no cool air. Had my local AC guy look at it, found it was missing an "O" ring, said it appeared it never had one there. Installed "O" ring, recharged it Jan 2013 before winter trek. Never even made it to FL before it lost cool air. Said the heck with it would take it back to him when I returned in April 2013; used the roof mounted AC's with Generator (I believe it to be more cost effective fuel-wise anyway). Each time it was charged dye was installed, no one has been able to find a leak. Just got it back from my local AC guy (who BTW is a good mech and I trust him). He withdrew the Freon, only had 1/2 pound in it. Recharged it and ran it for several hours, crawled all over, under, inside and can not find a leak anywhere. Even put a rag under it to catch the condensation to see if it showed any signs of dye; no joy. He is baffled. I called and spoke with Newmar and they are baffled as well, They said they have never had a problem with the two hoses that run the length of the RV leaking, as they are mounted in the chassis by Spartan and are very carefully wrapped to withstand any rubbing, friction, etc. Thoughts to share would be greatly appreciated by this old retired Marine Grunt. Semper Fi Jim
  8. Motorhomers typically drive way too fast. I drive 60MPH, and eveyone passes me including tag-a-longs, fivers, and the like. Slow down, what's the hurry? My rig weighs 29,925 and I tow a mini cooper, and I get 9 MPG. Years ago there were some independent studies done that showed that it takes 10% more fuel to raise your speed from 60 to 65. You are not driving something that is aerodynamically designed. Even with no headwind at all, you are pushing a lot of air in front of you. You can add all sorts of junk to that engine, and I doubt you'll see any appreciable increase in MPG. A few years ago, I drove from home in IL to MI to attend a rally. I reset the GPS before I left. I did the computations when I arrived, and discovered that driving 55 MPH all the way, I got 10.2 MPG and I calculated that I arrived 47 minutes after I would have had I drove 60. Do the math.
  9. Phespe, Great news. Read your post and now have traded my old reliable Jeep Sahara, which I have towed for many thousand miles and loved it. Only problem was it beat me to death when I had to use it for a long drive. Great cars, great toads, but it whipped my you know what on long trips. Anyway, I just purchsed a 2012 Hardback Mini (not an S, at my age I don't need the extra umph), and will tow it four down as you have done (it is stick BTW). My question is, do you pull a fuse? On the Jeep I pulled the IOD fuse so nothing inside the car was on thus wearing down the battery. Reading the manual I am having difficulty figuring out what to put the ignition switch in so it unlocks the steering yet doesn't leave everything on such as dash lights,etc. Also, did you install Roadmaster's or Blue OX's lights or do you use a magnetic bar? I have always used the toad's lights with diodes. I have a Blue Ox towbar, and will probably use their bracket kit?? One last thing. I also used Roadmaster's Even Brake in the Jeep, do you use one with the Mini? If so, any problems? Any help you can you can give this old wornout, beat-up, retired Marine would be greatly appreciated. I have to get this rig ready for a January Take-off Semper Fi, Jim
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