GerryDewees

I own a 1999 30ft Rexair class A and tow a 1992 Olds Cutlass (full size, four door) on a tow dolly. The coach is on a Ford chassis with a 1998 Ford V10 and Ford transmission. I love that engine even though it is only rated a 275 hp. It does a good job with a super maintenance free record. I've driven it almost 70,000 miles. I drive at 55 to 57 MPH and get about 8 MPG towing and over 9 MPG without a tow. (And that's burning California gasoline!) I feel that the V10 engines are the best gasoline engines Ford (or anyone else for that matter) has ever built!

I've used a tow dolly for several years and quite a lot of miles. Mine is a rigid axle dolly with a rotating deck plate. I also use tow cables attached to each side of the front frame of each of the two vehicles Ii tow. They stay attached to the vehicle and I unwind enough of each to reach and attach to the anchor bar on the dolly deck plate when I'm mounting either vehicle to the tow dolly. These tow cables are the common type available at any auto parts store. They come precoiled with end loops which I secure together using a chain link of the type secured by a screw threaded sleeve. They are easy to unscrew but are very strong and secure. I'm a bit of a safety nut having had a trailer break away once on the road! However, I feel comfortable that these safety cables will keep the car and dolly together even if a wheel harnesses brake. The main problem with this system is that to hitch or unhitch i have to get down on a mat on the ground to attach or detach the safety cables! The rest of the process is no problem since I use a socket and long handled wrench to tighten the harness takeups on the dolly. My dolly, of course, has its own brakes and I quess if I expect to go into Canada I'll have to install a system to operate the car brakes as well! A word of warning about tow dollies like mine with a rigid axle and rotating deck ; when used with a wide vehicle like my Ford Windstar be careful not to make too sharp turns because the dolly fenders can contact and damage the towed vehicle.

I've had the same failure on two Wisper King Surflo 2 gpm model 2093 water pumps. The spade electrical connection on the bottom of the pump corrodes and breaks off. This makes an otherwise operational pump useless. However, after replacing the pump for the second time, I decided to have a closer look at the old pump. When I disassembled the bottom of the pump where the wires enter the pressure switch unit, I found that the switch is actually a standard microswitch which is pressed into the plastic switch unit body. It is fairly easy to pry it out and the replacement microswitch is available on the internet for $2.60 plus tax and shipping. That's a lot better than the $135 for a whole new pump! It's a fairly simple job to remove four screws, carefully disassemble the unit, clean things up, pry ourt the microswitch and press a new one back in place, reassemble the unit and have a functioning pump again! The microswitch is a Omron model # V-15-2C26-K sold by Did-Key Corporation as their part # SW-1432-ND. It is also a good idea to pack the recess around the wires with silicon after the pump is reassembled and wired up to reduce both corrosion and vibration.