abyrd
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Posts posted by abyrd
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6 hours ago, Philc said:I started up the coach today to start on some maintance things that need attending and I was met with a chime going off telling me low battery. The volt gauge would fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts up and down for about a minute then stay steady at around 13.6 volts. I pulled out of the garage shut it down and restarted about an hour later same thing happened. First thing I did to troubleshoot was to put a volt meter on the alternator and sure enough it would bounce up and down between 12 and 14 volts and after a minute or so it would start charging steadily. So I guess my question is, is the alternator itself on it’s way out or is there some type of relay or a malfunction in the ECM that could be the culprit.
The coach stays plugged in all the time and the chassis batteries have a tender connected to them so I don’t believe it to be a battery issue. Also checked as many grounds and connection I could find all seems ok.
Any other suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated
Phil
What you are seeing is pretty much is the same as I see on mine. The voltage will fluctuate between 12.8v to 13.8v as the intake heater cycles, the only time I ever got the alarm was when I didn't use the rig for a couple of month and I forgot to turn the chassis disconnect switch off. I believe there is enough parasite load to discharge the chassis battery while sitting.
I replace the factory installed battery combiner solenoid with a Cole Hersee Smart Battery Isolator, 200 Amp rating, PN48530. (Blue Sea also make a marine version of this relay, I have two of them on my boat that has two engines and an inverter/charger.)The relay automatically switches allow the main engine alternator to charge both coach and chassis batteries when running and all allow the inverter/charger to charge both banks when on shore power or coach generator. The only downfall is you don't want you charger/inverter operating in the charging mode when coach main engine is running.
Previous to installing this smart relay my chassis engine alternator did not charge coach batteries when traveling. Only way to charge coach batteries was to run generator or plug in to shore power.
I have forgotten this couple of times and the alternator idiot lamp came on, no harm was done.
Jim
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35 minutes ago, jleamont said:http://www.acustrip.com/sca.html
Here is an explanation of how critical this is on a Diesel
Joe,
I have a 8.3 ISC Cummins in my coach and it doesn't have a coolant filter, do you recommend installing coolant filter? I had the cooling system flushed last year at 50,000 miles and changed to Cummins ESComplete OATS coolant.
I understand you need different test strips to test the SCA for this coolant, if that the case do you have to get it from Cummins. Cummins NW has closed several of the shops on the I-5 corridor in WA state.
Jim
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If not having enough space is your problem you my want to consider changing you valve stems or adding an extension on existing ones. Valve stems are available in many lengths and shapes. I would prefer changing the stems over installing the extensions. The extensions are more prone to failure.
Jim
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Is the problem caused by limited space or because the threads are not compatible? Either way the problem can be corrected by changing the valve stems.
Jim
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We had the same dilemma when we upgraded to a DP seven years ago. I can only speak on parks in the NW. We a have a 40' DP with 4 slides have had no problems find sites in state parks. National parks have been a different story, we have been to both Yosemite and Yellowstone several times and neither have been able to accommodate 40', however accommodation are readily available just outside the national parks.
We have no regrets with our decision in going with the 40 footer.
Best of luck in selecting your new coach.
Jim
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Posting arrived. congratulations on your new coach.
Jim
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I would recommend that you use a butt connector that has shrink tubing with an adhesive, they do a good job of keeping the connect dry and corrosion free.
Jim
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Harry,
What solar system did you install?
Jim
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Might be difficult to fine something that will stick to the Polyethylene Plastic.
Jim
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Check the 2 Amp fuse located on the circuit board located on the WH, accessible from the outside inspection door. I had a similar problem, found insulation damaged on one of the wires that was rubbing on metal bracket to igniter.
Jim
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2 hours ago, manholt said:OK. Jim, but will it work with multiple inverters? I have 2 inverters at 2,800W each!
Carl,
I only have one inverter/charger, I don't run the I/C in the charger mode when the chassis engine is charging the batteries. When driving down the road the I/C in on in the inverter mode providing power to residential and chassis engine alternator is charging both battery banks. When driving with generator running I have the I/C inverter and charger both OFF.
If you are running three battery banks ( 2 coach & 1 chassis) you would need 2 of the smart solenoids. You would have to check with the I/C manufacturer to determine if you can run both I/C in the the charging modes at the time on battery banks that are in parallel.
Jim
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1 hour ago, manholt said:FIVE. Wish it did on mine. But, they had 4 years to work on it, between you and me!
Carl,
I converted mine to work like Five's. It an easy conversion, you replace the solenoid that allows you jumper the coach bank to the chassis battery in an emergency. I will get the date sheet on the smart solenoid and post. Cost less than $100 and 10 minute job on my coach.
Jim
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Sounds like the thermocouple is not recognizing that burner has ignited. I would check that it is not just dirty also check for any loose wires. On most units the thermocouple and igniter are one unit.
Jim
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I have recently run across several applications where the zerk fittings were not threaded, they are easy to identify because they did not have flats for a wrench. I has the same thing happen on riding lawn mower and no luck keeping the press in zerks staying in place after they came out. Fortunately I was able to disassemble the steering link and was enlarge hole and tap threads to fit a zerk.
Jim
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My brother-in-law has never had toppers on the slides on his Discovery MH. He lives in the Pacific NW and most of his travel is on the coast wit rain and wind, ha has never had any problem with water intrusion. His seals around the slide don't look any different than mine
Even with the toppers on my rig the wind blows the rain and it accumulates on the top of my slides. I beginning having the toppers is like having both belts and suspenders.
Jim
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My owners manual states that the coach is not intended for use when the temperature drops below 32 degrees for extended periods. Guess me all try extend our free time.
Jim
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I just thought of a good solution to prevent the canopy from sagging. Place an inflatable float like you use to float on in a swimming pool, they are cheap and easy to store.
Jim
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We were in our MH over Christmas had about 4" of snow and it melted and froze overnight on all four slides. Fortunately it warmed up and it started to melt and I was able to remove the slabs of ice. . . .
Not sure there is much you can do to prevent heavy wet snow from causing the canopy from sagging and collecting. I don't believe you can put enough tension to the roller to prevent it from sagging. Mine also catch rain water that causes the canopies to sag, I always dump the water before retracting slides by either raising or lowering one end of the coach with the levelers before closing the slides.
Jim
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We used our previous motor home to go snowmobiling and spend many enjoyable trips where the temperature was below freezing for days. Since we were boondocking I kept my water system winterized and filled gallon jugs for potable water and used RV antifreeze to flush toilet. Never had a problem with anything freezing.
Jim
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On 12/27/2017 at 0:45 PM, abyrd said:It need to be rated for 25 amps 12 volt
Jim
My previous post is incorrect, when trouble shooting I found that the thermostat (snap switch) is in the control circuit not the power circuit.
The control circuit is protected by a 5 A fusible wire, the power circuit in protected by 30 A auto reset circuit breaker. Heater and controls are 12 V DC.
Jim
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Puff,
Did you take route 13 down the eastern shore of VA? I was born in Nassawadox, VA, still have cousins back there. I had facebook message this AM from one of them and they has snow.
Drive safe, 54 degrees today in Cathlamet.
JIm
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13 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:One of the big problem is the Alarm sound the same for Low Coolant, Low Oil, Low air Pressure and even the Jacks. If idiot light don't come on some times hard to know one from the other.
Herman
My low air pressure has a dedicated audible alarm, it will wakeup the dead. It no way that you can ignore it.
JIm
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1 hour ago, jleamont said:Jim, glad you got it figured out. I was suspicious, usually low coolant will illuminate the STOP engine also. I am very familiar with that alarm in our HR, you can hear it from down the street
Do you know what conditions initiate the STOP ENGINE lamp? My manual just say stop and check fluid levels.
When I was trouble shooting the oil pressure switch I initiated the STOP ENGINE, there must be a small time delay before the STOP ENGINE annunciator window illuminates.
I have spent my entire career in hydro electric power plants, I am no stranger to nuisance alarms. It sure is difficult to identify problems that are intermittent.
Jim
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There are two separate elements in the sending unit, one on the audible alarm circuit, it's just a contact that is open when the oil pressure is above 7 PSI, when the pressure drops below this value the contact closes and complete the circuit to activates the audible alarm. The circuit for the oil pressure gauge is variable resistor that is proportional to the oil pressure.
In my case only the audible alarm circuit failed, the oil pressure gauge continued to perform normally.
Jim
Alternator not charging
in Electrical
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Good point Carl, always look for the simple things first.
Jim