bottieri

wolfe10 I changed my original post about the charge circuit to using a 6 ohm, 50 watt resister in line, instead of a bulb. That should limit the amperage to 2 amps and not overload the tail light circuit fuse. Connecting to the battery directly isn't always convenient. In my Prevost H3 it isn't possible as the batteries are behind the fender above the drive wheels. Connecting to the tail light wire out of the coach trailer plug using bullet connecters was the simplest for my situation. Surely there are many ways of accomplishing the same goal. In my situation, running the coach batteries down is not a concern. Another benefit: You could run the parking lights on in the Jeep while running the lights on the RV since there will be additional amperage from the RV keeping the battery up. In that case I'd use a 3 ohm resister to double the amperage (to 4 amps) moving from the RV to the car battery. Even an 18 gauge wire will handle 4 or 5 amps over 10 to 15 feet in length, but I used a 16 gauge.

I have a 2014 Wrangler set up for towing. When I read in the book that the battery must be disconnected, I decided to eliminate that step so as not to lose all the electronic settings of clock and radio, blue tooth and what-not. Here's what I did: I connected a wire at the battery positive post directly to a marine inline fuse holder and to the "out" side of a tail light diode. From the "in" side of the diode I ran a wire down to the base plate area that will be connected to the tail light wire coming from the RV. CAUTION: install a resister (6 ohm, 50 watt) in line, to limit the current flow or you'll burn the fuse in the RV tail light circuit as the battery will suck up more amperage than the fuse and wire can handle. Because of the diode there is no power in the wire when not connected to the RV. This shows the connections at the battery and the black 'stuff' is Velcro. This system will keep the car battery charging as long as the tail lights in the RV are on, so you can supply power to a brake unit without killing the battery and not lose your settings because of a disconnected battery. Of course after doing all this I found there is no steering wheel lock so the key can be removed, but for those of you who must leave a key in to unlock the steering wheel, this is a great alternative to disconnecting the battery.

To get three quotes on a Marathon Coach proprietary item (window blind) is impossible. Their request is just to give me the run-around. You read both sides of the story - look at the photos and you decide. They weren't asked to look at the coach at another facility, I "offered" it for their benefit - not mine. There's nothing to work out. They weren't asked to repair anything. They offered to replace the blind if I could accomplish the impossible. I will repair my coach at my own expense.

They'll never get a complimentary post from me. See the whole story that I just posted along with a link to photos.