fountaincharles2

Has anyone had any success using Electronic Contact Cleaner and a "KNOWN" circuit/plug that seems to have intermittent problems??

All I did was switch the Ignition ON and let it set for about 20+ minutes. I went out earlier today and did the same thing, switched the Ignition ON(engine off), and let it set for about 20+ minutes. The temperature was about 75 degrees today when I switched it on. The temperature on the Accessory Relay you asked about went from 75 to about 90 degrees. The Ignition Relay also had about the same heat rise. About 15 degrees. On the other hand, the Slide-Out Board Main Relay went from 75 to about 110 degrees. I told Rich I was going to try and disconnect the Slide Motor wires and see if there is anything in that area that might cause this, but I will have to take time to move the MH outside to do this. Hopefully, tomorrow.

I apologize for not getting back earlier, but other events have delayed further coach activities until Monday. It will take about 30 minutes to check this particular action. In the mean-time can you think of any other item that in these circuits that possibly might cause a heat rise such as this?

I'm not sure about, but I don't think so. The new Relays and Sockets appear to be in tact, with no movement at all. I don't believe there is a problem with them at this time. However, let me muddy the water a little more by saying that... on the Slide out Control Board back by the Battery Compartment, the main Relay on that Board has a heat rise from room temperature(about 68 Degrees) to around 110 degrees just when the Ignition Switch is On. No Slide movement to generate heat in the wires, only the Ignition Switch being "ON." This Relay has been replaced as well as the 'Keyed Ignition Switch." The reason I bring this up is the Coach Drawings show a connection between that Relay and the Ignition Switch. Thus no easy way to trace these wires from the back of the Coach to the front, to try and find a short. And of course as you have experienced with some coaches the slides quit working with the Ignition ON. Or a coach may not start with slides out, etc.

For just a little background, I purchased the Coach used(25,000 Miles) in January of '05, and have driven it for about 72,000 miles without any significant problems. This particular issue/problem showed up in July 2018. And as a result of that shut down(the first of about 5) is when I found the melted Relays/Sockets on the 12 Volt Control Board. After having replaced these Relays, and during subsequent shut downs, these replaced relays are not getting hot when it shuts down. But, the power is getting cut off to the Ignition Relay (one of which was replaced). This is where Rich and I have been trying to determine what feeds this circuit, or if the plug that feeds this Circuit is(which appears to be coming from the Coach Battery feed) maybe a Control Wire, based on the Coach Drawings. So..., based on logic, I asked Rich if maybe a glitch in the KIB Relay for what ever reason, could possibly cause a power interrupt. Thus my last question about replacing the KIB Relay.

Just after my Coach shut down, I immediately started checking for any heat build-up under the Dash. The Ignition switch wires were cool to the touch. I have replaced parts over the past 2 years, but apparently have not been able to identify the "main" culprit(problem area/part). Each time this has occurred(loss of all power to the dash which kills the engine), it's the same sequence....your driving along and feel no power...you look at dash.....no lights in the dash and your coasting as you move over to the emergency lane and roll to a stop. This has happened at least 5 times over the past 2 years. Is this the sequence that the Coach you were working on experienced? Thanks.

Rich, I did find a photo of the back of my Board. Hope it's clear enough.

Rich and I have been discussing several possibilities as to why the coach instrument panel goes dark and the engine dies while traveling down the Interstate. Then after things cool down it starts right up(after about an hour and a half) and I am on my way again. That is...no dash lights period. As We have looked over the wiring diagrams, it seems to lead back to the front panel below the drivers seat. Not sure that is the culprit, but haven't been able to find where the power interrupt is while it's dead. Before I start to replace another Part, I am open to suggestion if someone has had a similar problem. Thanks. Bret, to finish answering your question as to why I haven't replaced this part.....I was wondering what Part/Brand other folks may have replaced this particular Latching Relay with.

What type of relay would I replace my KIB LR9806 with. I am not sure it is bad, but can't blame anything else at the time. Thanks.

Herman, I don't know if a fault in the fuel system will kill power at the Dash Panel, etc., but if the ignition system goes dead the fuel system will certainly stop. Anyone have knowledge in protections built into the fuel cutoff?

Outside temp....It probably was about 50 degrees or so. About 4 pm. No sure what the temp of the Board was. But it is in a closed environment. None of the dash wiring was hot nor the ignition key wiring.

These Boards are no longer Manufactured. When Monaco went under, the company that bought them out also has/owns the rights to all of these designs. Since there is no real/high demand for these, the current Monaco Manufacturer does not have them made anymore.

The Board P/N is 16615059 rev A.

Rich, is it possible that what appears to be a starter relay(page 307) could be wired in such a way as to kill all of the power to the ignition switch/dash panel??

I have not replaced any of the wires. All I did was remove what was needed to get the Board out of the plastic box so the bad sockets could be removed/replaced. As far as ground wires, as I remember, there are no single ground wires connected directly to the Board. I could be in error on this. When the unit was dead, I did find a ground lug, but don't remember the exact location. I will try and check that tomorrow.

This is a picture of the Board out of the plastic box and this was the condition when I first had a problem two years ago.. The Peach colored wire is what I used to get the MH to my residence when it first broke down 2 years ago. The three melted sockets are the ones that were replaced with heavy duty versions. The chassis battery stud still had 12 volts on it shortly after everything died. The back of the Board looks as good as the front with no burnt places.

That Board is enclosed inside a plastic box and has a tight lid to keep water and dust out of it. There is nothing behind the Board to touch any of the actual circuit runs. So I don't believe the problem is in the Traces. When I had the Board out 2 years ago, there was not sign of damage to the back or around the melted sockets. I would post a picture of the Board, but I don't know how to attach it on this page. As far as fluid levels....every thing looked good just before it quit. And before I stated home I checked oil, etc, so I am hard pressed at this point to understand how a sensor would kill all the power to the dash. In addition, the dash fans continue to operate, headlights, emergency flashers, etc. But the dash as well as the tranny panel were all dead. I will try and see if DW can assist me in attaching a picture of the Circuit Board.

My Coach has a recurring problem while traveling down the Interstate of totally losing all power to the Dash Board(including tranny), it just stops running until it cools, then restarts. Last Saturday(after driving 362 miles) I sat on the side of the Interstate about 1 1/2 hours before it decided to restart. I had this problem about two years ago and found/replaced the three relays and sockets in the Front Drivers side compartment/large circuit board(original ones had partially melted). All has been well until Saturday. These replaced relays were cool to the touch when it first shut down last Saturday, so I suppose the original problem was not located/repaired as I thought 2 years ago. The chassis battery cable coming to that compartment/Board still had 12.5 volts showing on my volt meter. However, those familiar with this Board knows that the three relays, Ignition, Accessory and Lights, have a row of fuses just above these relays. None of these fuses had power on them. However, in the lower left corner of the circuit board, there is a resettable breaker(50 amp as I recall) that I didn't think to check while the system was dead. And of course I wouldn't be able to tell now since the system has since cooled and is working until it gets hot again. In any event, spent the Saturday night in an adjacent Walmart parking lot(1/4 mile from where it died), then Sunday morning started right up and drove 100 miles on home without further incident.

Bob, I understand that the inner seal is subject to leak in the CAPS System. Do you have any idea how Cummins determined it was the pump and not the injectors? Did they perform the dye test to find the problem area? Thanks David.

Just adding a little confusion to the subject.....A fellow camper has had to replace his 2000 watt inverted twice. He has a 2004 Holiday Rambler. Recently when he had it replaced, the tech told him the probable cause of the failures may be attributed to the cord reel. Evidently the tech had noticed that coaches equipped with cord reels had more inverters replaced. What this would have to do with inverter failures is beyond my knowledge. This is a FWIW.

I have the same problem with a 2002 ISC 330. It's making oil. Getting ready to take it in to Cummins, but would like to be sure it's the injectors before I have them replaced. Has your making oil problem been solved since you had the injectors replaced?