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jleamont

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Posts posted by jleamont


  1. 13 hours ago, Oldcobia said:

    I’m thinking this might be too big of job for me.  Anyone know of shop around Tallahassee or north Florida they could recommend.  Thanks for the input. 

    I wouldn’t let anyone touch our coach but this business. And the specialize in Monaco products.

    http://talinrv.com
     

     


  2. Interesting topic. 7 years ago we bought our DP. It had scratches on it and I took it to a local body shop for repair. The owner asked me if he needed to plug it in to protect my batteries. I told him no, they are switched off. When I asked him how he knew that his response was shocking. He has classic cars that sit. Over time they will ruin the battery if not plugged in, I assumed an RV would have similar issues if not plugged in. Needless to say I was impressed. 


  3. Roland, all I’ve ever done;

    Pump RV antifreeze through the system until I see pink on the hot and cold sides including washer.
    Full tank of fuel prior to parking.

    leave coach plugged into electric.

    Add Fresh cab and Peppermint oil soaked cotton balls in the interior and basement (to keep mice away). 
    I never started the engine in winter therefore I could care less if the fuel gelled. 
    When we would get a warm spell (upper 30’s to 40’s) I would run my Aquahot on diesel and run the generator under load, each for an hour once a month. 

     

     

     


  4. Mike, I use sold stainless steel extensions that clear the outer wheel from the inner. Then I have the rubber grommets the press into the wheel hole and hold the stem to keep it stable. I have never had a leak issue. When I pull them off I replace the o-ring inside to make sure it’s a fresh seal.


  5. I’d like to say have it inspected, you could but understand they find faults that don’t exist so you have to take their reports with a grain of salt. We had terrible luck with dealers until we stumbled upon the one we bought from. My best recommendation, if you go to a dealer and the coach is dirty, walk away. Both times we bought they were pristine and they handed me a list of items that needed addressed. We negotiated through them and bought both times. 


  6. My tow bar is locked to the coach with locking hitch pins. Cables are mounted to the tow bar and so is the electrical cable (although the cable is easy to remove). Pins, I put them back into the tow bar and they are padlocked when parked. I padlock the Jeep to the tow bar if boondocking, (so it cannot be tampered with) otherwise I use the standard pins Bill described above. When at a campground everything is inside the Demco cover and zipped close, it all fits.


  7. I do not recall all of the antennas we have tried in the past and there were several on the last coach. I can say without a doubt the old crank up bat wing gives the best reception so far. It worked great at our old house in PA and we were 40 miles from every TV station. I joked about installing one on the house chimney and dropping cable to save money.


  8. Best roadside assistance. Self insurance. You call a tire vendor and pay them upon completion IMHO. this way hasn’t let us down so far. None of the others are in it for you, they are a business protecting their bottom line PROFIT. That’s why most wait so long, your RS call goes to the lowest service provider in that area.  if the job rate doesn’t meet their requirements, you are stranded and on your own anyway. 
    Being in the trucking industry (fleet repair) we see it way too often. 


  9. 15 hours ago, five said:

    I find it hard to believe we are even having a discussion of chaining up these beasts.  It would take some type of family emergency to get me to go anywhere in the snow....and most likely it would not be in the MH.  Yes, I can drive in winter weather, born and raised in snow country.  However, at this point in my life....why do it?

    Five, I agree. Emergency only. I refuse to move ours during the winter months. I also wait for a few soaking spring rains to wash all of the caustic junk off the roads before I consider moving it. Our regular vehicles only have a life span 6-8 years due to extreme rust and corrosion and they are paid off in 5. Can’t imagine that level of rust and corrosion on the coach, it would be devastating!! 


  10. I for one am not pro one manufacture vs another. I have had cheap Chinese to Michelin, no difference in the ride quality on a DP, the suspension blocks anything that the tire didn't, or on my chassis it does anyway. 


  11. Richard, your homemade pump/filter is a great idea! Either of the products above are good. The only reason I went with the link above, we had an underground tank at work that had water and it looked like Italian wedding soup in the bio diesel. Their products cleaned it up in 7 days. I was so impressed I splurged on their products. We had a company pump the water off the bottom first, their biocide all but dissolved the floaters. Keep us posted.


  12. Richard, I had the same problem back in 2016. Biocide and swapping the primary fuel filter about every 5-800 miles. Took about 6 primary filters and it became clear. I bought the products through this company AFTER they resolved a serious inground tank bio/water issue at work. The "Tank Tonic" product killed and broke down the micro organism's and the primary filter trapped the leftovers. I ran their additive for two year afterwards to make sure it was clean, now I ONLY use an additive at every tank fill up. I run Diesel Kleen now due to the cost.

    https://www.diesel-mate.com/additive-package-and-specification-data.html

    You could have the tank polished, that's the quickest resolution but costly. I had a friend get bad diesel in Colorado last summer, he found a mobile truck repair that came to him on the road side, on a mountain and polished his tank for around $2000.00. Took a few hours and they were on their way up over the mountain. 

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