rwitt

OK, Thanks. I'll check the vent on the roof as soon as it quits raining. Hopefully, sometime tomorrow.

Brett, I did that to confirm for sure the source of the odor and that is it. If the vent on the roof was blocked wouldn't the odor be coming through any/all of the air admittance vents?

Yes, Brett that is correct.

I know there is a lot of information around about this issue, but I need to see if anyone has any idea after you read what I have already done. I have a 2008 Monaco Camelot and have been in this RV Park for 3 months. The grey tank has always been open since we have full hookups. Yesterday we came home to the recognizable pungent odor of sewer in the unit. After a brief investigation and "noising around" I found that it was coming from under the sink in the rear bathroom. First thing I did was to close the grey tank and after running the vents for a while the odor was gone. Next, I went to Lowe's and got a new vent and replaced the one that was there. Opened the grey tank and within 15 mins the odor was coming in. I closed the tank again and then swapped the vent with the one in the front bathroom sink that was not having a problem. I thought maybe this might show that the one I just purchased was bad and the odor would come from the front bathroom. NOT the case..... opened the tank and the odor still came from the rear sink. I've cleaned out the sink and shower drains with Dawn detergent and sprayed a lot of hot water down the drains. Opened the tank and the odor is still coming in. It is only coming from the rear sink. The other bathroom sink and the kitchen sinks are fine........................... What's next???????? It's a real pain having to open and close the grey tank so I'm hoping to get this resolved soon. TIA Ron

Yes Bill, I always shut power off at the pedestal before plugging in. Thanks for checking. I've seen a lot of people just plug in. Also, see a lot that do not have any type of surge protection. I may have found my problem. I started checking electrical connections with special emphasis on the neutral. Everything was looking good until I checked the neutral going from the main bus to the to the power management bus. The screw was extremely loose. NOT NOW. I am hoping that this was the problem. I have not seen it flashing red so maybe it was. Of course, I have not been watching it for long periods, but I haven't noticed any problems in the unit today. Thanks to all for the suggestions. Great group. Ron

I noticed today that the male plug on the surge guard that plugs into the post has a prong that looks like it may have overheated at some point. Is it possible that this could be causing the intermittent problem? Of course, if it is then I need a new one. Jleamont - my surge guard is 3.5 years old. Ron

Bill, it has been on several pedestals lately. Twice it has shown low voltage on L2 and was very intermittent. The second time, the park had a Power Pal tester and when he plugged it in it checked OK. We left it there for about 30 mins since mine was intermittent. Now I'm getting reverse polarity warning intermittently but then it clears up. When I plug the Surge Guard (50 Amp) in without the unit plugged in it does not show a problem, but when I plug the unit in it starts intermittently. I did call tech support and didn't et much help. They said they couldn't tell what was going on and they really had no way to check it.

I currently have a Sure Guard 34750. It has been giving me some weird alarms lately so I'm thinking about getting a new one. Question: What do you recommend and why. TIA

Thanks to both of you. I connected the wire this morning and the pump came on and ran about 20 sec and turned off. I am assuming that the pressure control valve is 12V. I think I will try the lower amp and the relay. What relay do I need and where can I get it? Please send me the wiring diagram. Is the 3.5A OK to use if I put in the relay? When it was running this morning there were small bubbles coming from the terminal that I had the wire connected to so you are right kaypsmith. Although it was very slight and it quit when the pump went off. I released some air in the tank and connected the wire back. Pump came on and ran about 10 sec and the bubbles started again while it was running. I think ther must be another leak(s) somewhere causing the pressure in the two main tanks to fall every day??? Again, you're help is greatly appreciated. Ron

Brett, I was in the coach so I'm not sure which tank. It was up front where the pump and aux tank are. There is a relief valve on top of that tank. I used a lot of soapy water and check the relief valve and all the connectors for air lines and didn't get any bubbles. The Gage's showed 115 psi for both tanks. However, this morning they were at 85 psi. I checked the oil stick and in the filler area. No rust on stick and no white gunk in the filler. Does that mean I'm probably OK reference moisture in the crankcase? Kaypsmith, I looked at the link you provided. I didn't see one with a 20A listing. Most of the 90/120 12v switches that mentioned amps were 3.5A I appreciate the help from both. Any other ideas?

I have a 2008 Monaco Camelot with air leveling only. We purchased it about 1 1/2 years ago and I started have problems with what I presume is an air leak. In looking for that I found a aux air pump with small air tank in the front of the coach. One of the wires was disconnected. When I connected it the pump started but it was extremely loud inside the coach and ran frequently. I finally disconnected the wire so it wouldn't run. I've continued to have problems with low air and have been starting my coach to build it back up. I just learned (thank you Brett) that I shouldn't be starting the engine and letting it run without driving it to build up all of the pressures. Also, that that the aux air should be used when parked. I connected the wire back on the pump this afternoon and it was still loud. It waited for a while and then started coming on about every 20 mins. Then about an hour ago, it started and wouldn't go off. The air tank blew off twice but the pump kept running. I went out the pull the wire and it was too hot to touch. I got a pair of pillars and disconnected the wire. I don't know if the pump is bad or the sensor. The control panel has Valid Inc on it, but the pump and tank both have power gear. I have been trying to find the pump and the sensor on the web with no luck. The pump is Power Gear P/N 501184 s/n 0706055580/ The air tank is Power Gear P/N 501263 S/N 0704030508. The sensor shows ON 90 PSI OFF 120 PSI 20A and an # 3096 on it. Has anyone has this problem and does anyone know where I can find these parts? Any help will be greatly appreciated. We are in the TX Valley in McAllen, TX and I have not been able to find anyone who will work on the air system as yet. If anyone out there is in this area or familiar with this area and knows who I can call, please let me know.

Tom/Herman, Thanks for the info. Herman, I certainly understand about more energy with age LOL......... All of the lights do not dim at the same time. It is sort of random. I've tried several of Tom's suggestions with no visible results. I did notice that normally the Power Management System is showing floating charge, but today I also noticed for a few minutes that it went to full charge. It stayed that way for a couple of minutes and then went back to floating. None of the lights dimmed during that event. I may need to get someone who knows the 12V system to check it once we get to the valley.

Thanks Tom & Bill. I'll start checking places out once I get to the valley next week

We have changed to a residential refrig but everything else is the same and this just started. Batteries fully charged, cables tight and clean. Is there any way to check the cut off switch before it fails

Thanks Carl, I will definitely stay away from Camping World. Last time we were there Camping World was closed and as far as I'm concerned they can stay closed. I'll try to contact Butler.

I wouldn't have time to get a meter on it. It (they) go dim and then back to normal in less than 10 seconds. It is random as to which one/ones do this.

Wolfe10, my unit has an inverter/charger with separate power on/off switches on the panel. I keep the charger on and the inverter off since I am not using the unit without being connected to shore power (per manual and Monaco tech instructions). I've been in this mode for over a year now and just started noticing the dimming. I've checked the panel when the dimming occurs and it shows it still in floating mode at 13.3v. Am I missing something?

The center AC has been replaced and all is well, except now the rear unit is doing the same thing for the startup draw. It is settling in at about 15 to 16 amps which I believe is also high. The front and rear units are 15K units and according to Dometic, they don't make that model any longer and the replacement model is not in stock. It is going to be some time in OCT before they can have them is stock. My problem is that I am now on my way to McAllen TX for the winter so I don't have the same tech available. He was Dometic certified and a very good/reasonable and was willing to do a lot of work at the park to keep clients from having to take it to the shop. Hopefully, I can find someone as good and dependable in McAllen. I'm going to just replace the front and rear and then hopefully will not have more AC problems for a while.

House batteries are a couple of years old. They are showing a full 13.3v each. I check water level once a month and added as needed.

I have 2008 Monaco Camelot. I have noticed recently that on some occasions, the lights will dim for just a second and then go back to bright. It is not necessarily all of them that are on that do this. We connected to shore power and surge guard shoes full voltage on both legs (50 amp). Anyone have any ideas?

Thank you Dave for the follow up. I hope you and Bill are correct and there really is no problem. I've had enough of those already on other things and we just started full timing. I sure don't need a bad turbo right now

DaveAtherton, The information I have just shows Model # as ILS400HP. The SN is 46747274. Thanks

Thanks everyone. I appreciate all the help. As for driving technique, I can say yes to all....... Down shifting, maximizing speed going down, flooring the throttle, etc. I just thought going down to 30-35 before the top was not good. I have been talking to some in the park here and they had the same experience. Just a follow-up question: if I have a dirty filter wouldn't it cause a power loss even when not going uphill?

Thanks Rich, How would I check for the engine break sticking. I did use it a couple of time on the steeper downhills, but I can't remember if I had used it before I had the problem on the first hill. Ron

Herman, Thanks for answering. All filters were changed in May. I don't remember looking at the boost gage while I was having the problem. It did fine on up hills until we got to the steeper ones. There was some some power loss on all hills but not like this. There is plenty of power until it starts a climb. I do know that when I was noticing the boost it was peaking at 25-30. Just can't figure why I have plenty of power until I start up steeper hills. Ron