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When I was in Kentucky getting a few spare parts the Person at Vison RV said that with out of date tires if I was in an accident and someone got hurt.. Well... Now I can not attest to that .. But I can say if someone hit me with say 13 year old tires and I survived I'd be calling Ben Dover & C. Howitt Feels attornies at law (Fictional firm from 3 Stooges but you get the idea). Oh, my tires got a whole lot younger.. I did have a flat (inside dual) Discovered by INSPECTION not by loss of control. and got all six made younger. But .. Well if you are going to find you have a flat.. PARKED is the way to do it.

One cause I've found for the A/C tripping breakers IN SOME PARKS is low voltage. When the voltage goes down.. the Current in an A/C goes up. If the voltage starts dropping much below 110 then the current REALLY goes up. This can also damage the Air Conditioner. There is a way to prevent damage, but this too,,, Increases the current and thus trips the breakers even faster. Suggestion is a volt meter.. My personal favorite for general plug in use is the Kill-a-watt in volt meter mode. This is about a kilo-buck worth of meters ($1,000) in a 30 dollar OR LESS box. Watch the voltage especially when the A/C's kick in.

Let me tell you my story on Stabilizers In Jan of 2006, (jan-2 in fact, about 3AM) I pulled out of my lot at home and found I had an electrical problem, Found a work around and headed to Las Vegas. (The electrical problem is not an issue in this thread) It was a tough drive.. I shared driving with a professional driver we took along for the ride and let me tell you when I got to Vegas and un-hooked the towed it was a pleasure to park the motor home and drive the Lumina Mini-van. I got the electrical and a few other warranty issues fixed and returned to Michigan. Over the summer I had two modifications made 1: Blue Ox TRUE CENTER steering Stabilizer 2: Davis Tru-Track track bar (Also called a pan-hard bar) Now, after install (2 different locations) I did not notice much difference but.... See notes below IN November of 2006 we headed back to Vegas (Left the tuesday before Thanksgiving, Had dinner in Benton Harbor MI the next day with my Brother, then on to Nebraska (Blue Ox, Needed one more "Toy" and fix a problem my dealer caused) and then on to Salt Lake City (Another technincal issue with an after market device) and Las Vegas. Got to the Moose Lodge in Vegas and unhooked. MAN was that Lumina hard to drive Same car, Same motor home,, Difference in how the MH handled. The Notes: Most steering stablizers try to center your wheel for you. The Blue Ox is no different, However.... From time to time you may not want it exactly centered.. For example if you have a steady 20mph cross wind the rig will want to wander "Down wind" and if you are on a high crown road it will drift toward the low side. HOW nice would it be if you could easily Re-Center the stablizer to compensate? (Very nice indeed) Well, most units to re-center you need to estimate the amount of ajustment, then crawl under the rig with wrenches and hammer and .. Well.. Adjust. With the blue ox you push a button next to the driver, don't even have to get out of the seat Blue ox tells you to estimate the amount of adjustment, pull off, stop and THEN press the button. Naturally, the temptation is to press in motion Ever see those Airplane involved movies where the novice pilot has to land the passanger plane with the tower talking him in.. The tower says to turn off the auto pilot and the novice pilot immed looses control of the air craft.. Of course in the movie he recovers and lands safely. Well..... Let me tell you that's not far from how I felt when I pressed that button!!!!!

Two part reply: Converters (Without inverters) I really like the Progressive Dynamics 9100 with optional charge wizard or the 9200 line (Which has the wizard already inside) Both are outstanding converters and I give them top marks. I will say however that far as I know the Charge Wizard is pre-set for flooded wet cells only and can not easily be modified.. Why they don't make one for AGM batteries I do not know since it's a matter of calibration, not parts. Inverter/Chargers.. I use a Xantrex Prosine 2.0.. And though I really like it it too belongs is part of a class and there are several others just as good.. I will tell you what I like about it. 1: True sine wave inverter... Thus EVERYTHING works just like it does if I plug it in at home. No problems with wonky clocks or overheated transformers or hum or buzz in the audio or distortion of pictures. I mean if it works on shore power and draws less than 2,000 watts.. it works on Xantrex Prosine power. (MSW inverters are cheaper but due to the "Stair Step" waveform they may cause digital clocks to run faster, Microwaves to cook slower, hum in the audio (Radio/Television/CD) distortion on the TV screen or in some cases just plain shut down some devices, They also cause a whole lot of radio interference, AM radio is usually wiped out and I've read of even Satellite (Microwave) signals being jammed by a MSW inverter.. I have some very senistive radios (Kenwood TS-2000 ham rig) in the motor home and it really loves my Prosine, not that it uses it, but they share a few wires... Like the ground) 2: Charger: The charger in the Prosine is a temperature compensated 3 stage plus, and it is VERY EASILY re-configured for different battery types (It has a whole bunch pre-configured and you can then modify The 3 stages are BULK, A very fast (high current) recharge of a battery that needs it, This brings the batteries up to around 90%, Normally in about 2 hours (or less) if they are half full.. You can also adjust the "Battery size" so that if you have less than 300 amp hours of batteries (It likes 400 or more) it does not charge them to fast. ABSORPTION: a much slower (lower amprage) "Top off" of a battery that is at least 90% full This may be 10 amps or less and take several (4-6) hours to fully top off your batteries, but this is the way it should be done FLOAT: A lower voltage that ideally (From the battery's point of view) results in ZERO current flow And on manual request... EQUALIZE,, This is a controlled overcharge which has some benefits (on occasion) for primarily flooded wet cells (Like golf car batteries) it stirs things up in the battery and makes sure ALL cells are 100% full charge.... AGM batteries are not so needy in this regard (But do seem to benefit on rare occasions) Plus as I said, it will automatically adjust the charge voltages to compensate for differences in the weather.. A hot battery (Say 80 degrees in the shade) needs a different charge voltage than one where you are ice skating, and the Prosine can adjust automatically.. Very nice device.. Finally it's remote panel,, Gives you a whole bunch of information that's useful ANd last, since it's an "in-line" device (Takes 120vac in and passes it on if it's clean) when the power fails. the TV does not even blink as the inverter kicks in.. Very nice. However... That is only if you wish an inverter.

Tank sensors are nothing more than a screw or nail, That's all, that extends into the tank, If it's "Moist" then it shows that the tank is "That full" (there are usually 4 or 5 of them, the number of lights on your panel plus 1 (Ground)) To get the thing to read right you really have to blast the sensor wall.. OR, change sensors. (more on that in a second) To properly clean the sensor wall, on the black tank only.. You could use a product from Valterra,, It is called the MASTER BLASTER,, This is a tank flush wand with a miniture "Fire nozzle" on the end, you point it toward the sensor wall and move it up and down, twist righ and left and it blasts any slime off the wall and lets the sensors work properly.. Works fairly well... Though Mine is home made, not a Valterra.. I've only seen one store that sold it. I have also had luck with the "Geo" Method.. Dump, add 1/2 cup Calgon water softener (Powder or liquid) 1/2 cup REGULAR (not anti-bacterial) Dawn dishwashing liquick, about 5-8 gallons of water (I added six) and drive.. 50-70 miles, then dump again. However I mentioned above two other sensors one is the See Level System (Google: See Level RV) This is an external sensor, it sticks to the outside of the tank, and uses some electronic magicery (Capacatince) to measure the level in the tank. This is a full system, it is 100% different from your current sensors. The other is HORST sensors.. Now, I have seen the See-Level system with my own eyes, Never seen a horst sensor save on the net.. But folks who use 'em swear by, not at, them (So far) I plan on upgrading.. Some day. http://www.horstmiracleprobes.com/buy.php As I said,, I've not tried them.... yet.

Well... Amber wandered into my life, or rather my office, at about seven weeks, I brought her hiome, INtroduced her to the magic food dish (It keeps filling up) and water dish, clean bedding adn the like and she decided she likes it here.. She likes Clean, so, she hops in the sink to take a bath. (NOT) She's somewhat older now and loves to walk around the campgounds, she does not care for a leash, but she's not allowed out without one.. She still likes that magic food dish though. Her boyfriend, ALEX, joined her a few months later, after a diligent search of the internet, He is a Maine Coon, and his former home was the Michigan Animal Rescue League INC. shelter in Pontiac Mich. where there were just too many barkey things for his comfort.. He Seems to like that magic food dish too