bikeryder

jleamont, your gear housing fill point appears to be a "dream" for very easy access to fill the clean engine oil. Saturday morning will become my day of Cummins engine exploration, hopefully ending with a discovery of a much better engine oil fill point on my Cayman's Cummins diesel.

Lenp, Thanks for pointing that out. Saturday morning I will go exploring, searching for additional engine oil fill points. Eddie

Desertdeals69, As far as I am aware, my fill tube is fixed [doesn’t pull up or out]. But I will look closer at this on Saturday morning. Thanks, 👍 Eddie

Thanks Jim, I’ll definitely check that floor access panel on Saturday morning. I just assumed that floor panel was for access to the Allison Transmission. I guess it’s true, what some say you become, whenever it is you ASSume. I appreciate very much the advice. 👍 Eddie

I’m looking for advice on performing DIY oil change on 2003 Monaco Cayman - Cummins Diesel 275 HP. My concern is the oil filler w/cap is so high, straight up against the upper top side of engine enclosure. Is there a special DIY hose kit, or some such thingy, which will enable a novice like myself to refill the Diesel engine oil without making a mess, spilling oil everywhere but where it belongs [in the oil fill pipe]? It is the uppermost filler pipe w/cap[see pics]. Why are such things placed in the most inaccessible locations [rhetorical]? Thanks in advance for any tips as I have never done this before. Eddie

Thank you Jim for your kind words of approval. This stairwell upgrade project, was truly an enjoyable and very rewarding experience. Eddie

We have completion [with the exception of wiring my newly installed double ON/OFF toggle switch plate]. Oh, I decided on not painting the black MONACO metal switch plate “OFF WHITE”. I believe I can live with this switch plate remaining black, as this plate happens to be Monaco OEM part. The plate actually states; MONACO at the bottom. I will look into obtaining black label tape with gold font to properly label each switch [inside / outside]. I tested my stairwell light by means of 12 volt power supply, all is good [see pics]. Carpet was trimmed by utilizing an aluminum carpet trim, which was mitred at 45 degrees at joint. Speaking of carpet, I purchased a heavy brown entry mat which I trimmed to fit the stairwell cover, this heavy carpet mat should eliminate the sun being reflected off the highly polished aluminum diamond plate. On both of the 1” thick solid oak stair treads, I routed a 1 1/2” wide, 1/8” deep recess to receive 1 1/2” wide aluminum diamond plate. I opted to do this for the purpose of hiding mounting screws to the subsurface, thus eliminating adhesive should stair tread removal ever be required. I do not ever want to go through what I went through the first time. Thanks to all who have followed along during this stairwell upgrade process. I must say, I am very satisfied with the overall results. Eddie

jleamont, A most excellent suggestion. I just got off the phone with Niabi of NorthWest RV Supply. Just as you suspected, NorthWest RV Supply had exactly what I needed. Although that "KITCHEN & DINETTE" double metal plate switch is out of stock, Niabi searched her inventory and found the exact same double switch metal plate [only with “VANITY & BATH”]. Which is of no consequence, as I’m going to paint this black Monaco [metal] plate double switch, Off White. I ordered [2] of these double switch metal plates as they are hard to find, along with [4] ON-OFF switches in OFF WHITE color. I truly appreciate the link and then the nudge to make an old fashioned phone call. As the Staples EASY BUTTON says: "That was easy!" More later… Eddie

jleamont, Thanks for the link... Northwest RV Supply, at one time had what would have been an acceptable flat metal double switch plate [3"x3"] if only it was in stock [image uploaded]. Darn it! The search continues... Eddie

BTW, Does anyone have any idea where I might obtain a similar double light swith plate as those I've uploaded below? I would replace the battery cutoff and red step switch with regular ON / OFF switches. I have decided to add dedicated light switches [one for my new stairwell light, and the other to turn on & off my yellow lamp which illuminates my outside retractable stairs]. Currently, my outside yellow lamp stays illuminated 24/7 when stairs are extended, and only goes out when retracted. I would install the second double switch directly above the existing. Picture with red arrow is where I would like to install the second double switch plate. [see pics]. Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions. I’ve uploaded pictures. More later… Eddie

Unfortunately free time was scarce this past week, so I didn’t accomplish nearly what I had planned, other than hand fabricate a thin birch trim piece [see pics]. Hopefully next week will be much more productive. More later... Eddie

Thanks to all, for your most kind words on results thus far on my stairwell upgrade project. Lots more detail work yet to complete [including selecting type of material of stair treads, one very small wall yet to be paneled in 1/8” thick birch, trim off poorly cut carpeting [which still kills me - ugh!], complete stairwell light wiring to wall switch]. I must admit, [with the exception of my sad attempt to properly trim my old carpeting] I am personally very pleased thus far with the overall results. I very much appreciate all who have provided suggestions, positive feedback and the encouragement to press on. More later... Eddie

I have kept myself busy, slowly progressing inch by inch. First off, I decided to rip out the carpeting on the floor between the stairwell and the passenger side front dash wall [under dashboard]. I thought ridding the floor of the carpeting between stairwell and front dash wall would provide a more appealing overall appearance. At the same time I opted to remove the carpeting going up the front wall [again directly under dashboard], as well as removing the side wall carpeting between dash wall and entry door casing trim. I made the floor trim piece [stairwell entry] complete with bull nose from ½” thick solid birch hardwood [natural color, unstained] with two coats of varnish. I had the corner joints mitered with 45º degree cuts, adding wooden biscuits to strengthen the joints. I maintained the 6 ½” dimension between stairwell wall and front dash wall, on all three side of stairwell entry floor trim piece. The first thing you’ll notice is this floor trim is wider than what is normally installed. But I must say, considering the fact I eliminated the carpet between the stairwell and front wall under dash, I do like the overall feel [appearance]. BTW, I did consider making a smaller width floor trim piece, and then installing flooring material between the floor trim piece and front wall, however in the end I opted to simply make the larger stairwell floor trim. The front dash wall paneling is 1/8” birch [natural color, unstained] also with two coats of varnish. I still need to fabricate the side wall paneling piece between dash and entry door casing trim. I needed to hold off until after installing front wall panel prior to attempting to cut the side wall panel piece. The carpeting is quite old and in great need of replacement. But for the time being it has to stay, as I cannot afford the replacement cost. As I cut the carpet [being so old] it didn’t cooperate as I would have liked [frustrating], resulting in an undesirable small gap between cut carpet and stairwell floor trim. I’ll have to figure out a suitable carpet fill trim [wood, metal, fabric?]. Oh, I almost forgot. I also installed [one] stairwell light. It is all wired in, I only need to install the wiring to the switch. I’ve uploaded pictures. Lots more detail work yet to do! Sorry, I believe I uploaded pictures in reverse order. More recent pics at top. More later… Eddie

That’s a most excellent suggestion manholt. Thanks very much for your thought provoking input. Your thought about a rug had crossed my mind. Now, after your feedback I’m convinced. Upon completion of my stairwell upgrade project [lots more still to do], I shall most definitely search out a nice higher end / higher quality rug [after all, I just tore out ugly-drab-unappealing carpeting, yuck] with a rubberized bottom to keep it from wandering upon the new [blinding - bright aluminum diamond plate] slide-out stairwell cover. Hopefully I can find something heavy enough [industrial grade?], that will stay put as slide-out stairwell cover traverses between the open and closed positions. To find the appropriate sizing, high quality and weight it may well need to be a custom order... Eddie

kaypsmith, that is quite an attractive compass artwork plaque on that screen door. Definitely some good food for thought. As always, thanks so much for sharing... 👍

This week has been very productive. Friday afternoon I picked up my 1/8” thick polished aluminum diamond plate material. Utilizing my left side & right side [stairwell wall] paper templates, I was able to replicate onto aluminum diamond plate material. The trimming process was much tougher than I had anticipated. I was so involved I completely lost track of time, working until 11:00pm. I need to add, I was freezing as temps dipped into the mid 40’s [I know, I know, many of you are probably laughing about now, considering mid 40’s to be a winter heatwave]. Saturday morning, I located and obtained some very nice quality chrome screw head cap covers. Both left side & right side stairwell sidewalls installed. Lower stairwell riser installed. Stairwell slide out floor cover with face plate completed, installed & operational. Overall, I’m quite pleased with the results thus far. I have much more detail work yet to go, progress pictures uploaded. More later... Eddie

kaypsmith, Thanks so very much for the link on remant Corian product. I've been reviewing availble inventory over these last few days. I've kept myself quite busy measuring [remeasuring], and making paper templates to be utilized in preparing for cutting both LEFT & RIGHT stairwell side wall aluminum diamond plate [MEASURE THREE TIMES -- CUT ONCE]. As a result, I made a slight adjustment / addition to my polished aluminum diamond plate. Total [out the door] price including [2] 8' lengths of J-Cap trim $198.23. I pickup materials this coming Saturday afternoon. Stair tread material the only remaining unknown at this point. More later . . . Eddie

abyrd, kaypsmith, thanks so much for your thoughts and suggestions, always much appreciated. I just noticed one of the quotes [uploaded] I received for the Corian product. This stuff is absolutely beautiful but extremely expensive. Moving forward... Eddie

manholt, the newly fabricated 3/16” metal plate is screwed directly to the existing bottom galvanized steel, the wood has been removed. What I’m considering is possibly obtaining a 3/4” sheeting of High Density Polyethylene Plastic [those used in food preparation industry] between the new 3/16” metal plate and the finished tread material. Eddie

Herman, the bottom entry step is merely galvanized sheet metal. I had previously chiseled an old dry rotted 3/4” piece of marine plywood out. GR8 advice on cleaning and giving a good coat of primer... Eddie

I spent this past week visiting Corian suppliers and boy did I ever receive sticker shock. The average price just for the [6] cut to size / shape Corian pieces was nearly $3,000. Wow, that's about 1/3 more than I was willing to dish out. So here I find myself at yet another crossroad, mid-stream change in plan. I believe I'll opt for 1/8" thick polished aluminum diamond plate material for the [2] stairwell walls, and stair tread risers. I'm also considering utilizing this diamond plate material for the top of the slide out stairwell cover. I have received a hard material quote of under $150 for all required polished aluminum diamond plate material. I'll perform final shape cuts myself on the band saw. J-Cap aluminum trim material, roughly $50 with some additional miscellaneous screws and such. As much as I was truly looking forward to a Corian styled stair entry, I've seen some quite nicely done polished aluminum diamond plate stairwell entries on bus conversions. In the end, I believe I will be more than satisfied with the overall appearance of a polished aluminum diamond plate stairwell entry. Uploaded Quote on diamond plate material. More later... Eddie

Success... Bottom 3/16” metal plate stair tread installed. Dimensions of required individual Corian pieces taken and recorded. Now it’s time to pay a visit to the kitchen contractor who will supply the custom cut Corian product. This phase may take awhile. More later... Eddie

Returned from the hardware store with goodies in hand. I’ve sealed some previously drilled holes [and one breached small crack that I carelessly caused with a screwdriver removing that original dry rotted 3/4” plywood stair tread] on existing bottom galvanized stairwell plate with silicone. New 3/16” metal plate scrubbed, washed and rinsed clean, both sides. Fully primed [2 coats] and painted, both sides. Waiting for paint to dry in the warm California sun. I will also install mounting tape to hopefully eliminate any and all potential rattling, as well as seal each newly drilled anchoring screw hole [pics uploaded]. This is turning out to be a very enjoyable and rewarding project. I only wish I had decided to tackle this stairwell entry upgrade a year ago. Oh well. More later... Eddie

Will definitely do that Bill. Thank you sir. Eddie

jleamont, thank you kindly. I always say; “If you don’t have time to do the repair right, just don’t do it, get a professional”. Which is why I’m going to have the folks at Source Engineering install their precise engineered suspension system on my Cayman, as that installation is way over my pay grade. Eddie