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dutchstar3812

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About dutchstar3812

  • Birthday August 7

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Littleton, CO
  • Interests
    Woodworking, Fishing, Motorcycling, RVing
  • I travel
    With Pets

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  1. You need to define what you mean by "best". Lots of people are running TPMS systems and each has their favorite. Usually the one they have and the one they have is likely the only one they have owned. Look at the specs and comments on each brand and decide what is important to you, what you don't like, compare features, customer service, warranty and then decide.
  2. X2 on the cedar oil. Works great.
  3. I'm not sure there is yes or no answer to your question. I think it depends on how often you use hot water and how much you use at one time. If you use hot water frequently then it is probably more economical to leave it on, if you only use hot water once or twice a day then heating when you need it is probably more economical. I think the most economical is heating just the amount you want in a pan on the stove.
  4. Sounds like there may be a bend or "trap" in the fill tube that is creating a blockage and not allowing the air in the tank to exit as the water flows into the tank. Buy a barbed hose fitting that is only 1/2 inch diameter at the barb end. Put 2 to 3 foot of 1/2 inch ID plastic tubing on the barb, attach the hose fitting to the water hose and insert the plastic tubing as far in to your fill opening as possible. This may get the water past the section that is causing the blockage and allow the air to escape.
  5. There is a small pressure drop in the chuck and another pressure drop going through the tire valve stem. Because of these pressure drops the tire will never get to the same pressure as shown on the gauge upstream of the chuck. The tire pressure will be close, but never equal to the line pressure.
  6. I have considered all three ideas. I have sent an email to Spartan Support for their input on a local shop. There are a lot of comments on this boot issue in IRV2 forum. Quite a few that have done Nos. 1 & 2 above and depending on what Spartan says and the cost I probably will follow suit, especially since I don't currently have a steering problem. It makes sense to replace the ball joints if the rubber boots are replaced (wouldn't be much increase in price). I really would like to get an estimate on cost before making the final decision. Thanks for the reply and input. It's always nice to get different opinions.
  7. The rubber boots on the ball joints of my 2004 DutchStar have rotted. Cummins Rocky Mountain here in Denver, CO does not have the equipment to make the repair and don't know of any local shop that does. Surely someone has had the ball joints on their motorcoach done in the Denver area. I will contact Newmar and Spartan on Monday but thought some of the local members might know of a facility in Colorado or surrounding states that can do the work. Thanks for any information you can provide.
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