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Does anyone have any experience using or been weighed by A&A LLC 20K capacity portable wheel scale? Typically used for four corner weighing. It’s getting harder to find commercial scales capable of doing or “wanting” to do this. Any feedback would be appreciated.

It's a serious problem. We had a 2014 with the same issue - end result Chrysler gave us money to walk away and then we sold it back to one of the dealers. The harness is required and it keeps 12V.power to the steering which prevents the "death wobble" . But it took years to get FCA to listen to so many complaints logged with NHTSA on this exact issue among so many more. We had to hire a Lemon-Law attorney who took the case, after more than a year they settled. We wanted to have a "buy-back" and that may have happened in the end, but it would have taken another two or three years of court time and it just wasn't worth it. The 14's to 17's have so many problems - Transmission is one of the top issues, along with towing of course. The vehicle was at the dealer 14 times from when we purchased it. Anyway, have the harness installed, port a 12V. constant power connection from your MH to your car battery since the batteries will only last approximately four to six hours - unless you charge them frequently while traveling. There are a few good systems sold online to do exactly this.

Good to know, I'll use the Sylvania for my B/U lamps, they are good enough for that function but I agree with you - more upfront cost can increase safety and awareness of the lighting system. Thanks again.

Thanks for all of your feedback folks, good stuff. I've tried a few different for 3157 function now - issue is that they are not near the photometric requirements which can make them unsafe. Not in intensity but distribution. I'll try a few more. The B/U function is safe. I've found some mfg'd my Sylania / Osram which appear the best at this point. FYI - there are some "spider": lamps out there which can collapse and then expand once installed, these may give a bit more spread to the reflector than the X-mas tree style bulbs. Anyway thanks for everyone's input, I'll take it all for experience once I decide on the final source. Take a look at Superbrightleds.com - looks like a good source as well.

Anyone out there have a 2005 MY RV with 1156 and 3157 bulbs (Back-Up and Turn/Brake) that they have converted to LED? Just curious, while I work in the lighting field I've never used any of-shore based LED exterior replacement lamps. Most of the issues are due to reflective light which was designed for the incandescent lamps with reflectors so the drop-in LED bulbs can look "spot-ish" and while they are brighter then may not distribute enough light to be conspicuous. The other question is if anyone has tried them (2005 MY +/-) have you had to install a resistor load to eliminate hyper flashing? With the low cost of the drop-in LED bulbs being a huge alternator benefit, it's looking like a good option. I have replaced several on interior functions, but their not so critical and don't have anything to do with FMVSS guidelines. Any feedback is appreciated.

I think so too. Thanks for your feedback. I'm building the piers over the next few weeks. They end up about 12" high allowing for about a 1.5" drop. I think it will be a good storage process.

Thanks for the feedback. The RV is parked on a slab in a garage. I would think that it would cause the same issue if it had the levelers extended - the situation I was thinking would be the same and so did HWH. I guess I'll keep an eye on it. I have a 05 40' Winni Vectra, with a two piece front glass. Thanks

Hi Folks, Being new to 22.5 tire maintenance, I was wondering if anyone would have any feedback to my long term storage proposal to remove some of (if not all) weight from my tires. First let me say I made contact with both FL and HWH just to ensure that there are no structural implications or potential damage to my RV. I'm thinking of dropping the air of my RV and allowing the chassis to sit on (4) blocks which would be just under the retracted HWH leveler pad - maybe 1 to 1.5 inches. As the air dumps the weight of the unit goes to the leveler and spacer block under. The pilot air dump removes the air from the bags, so there would be little weight on the tires after they make contact with the spacer blocks under the leveler pads, just the front suspension and rear axle. This would make sure that the hydraulic leveling system, if it bleeds a little doesn't effect the stored height along with put weight back on the tires. According to HWH it implies similar or the same loads as the system being extended, just with the levelers retracted. My RV drops about 2" to 3" approx, so I was thinking of just a little more than 1" would be sufficient. In this case the levelers are retracted and not exposed to any environment, even though it is in a garage. Just curious if anyone has tried something similar. Thanks for any feedback.