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tbutler

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Posts posted by tbutler


  1. Hey Wayne,

    Ouch! :) Diesel at the Flying J at Quincy, I-10 Exit 192 was $2.279 (I checked the internet just now). When I get caught in this situation I'll put in enough fuel to get me 100 miles down the road rather than filling up at the higher price. Next time you are in the Flying J, pick up a brochure that gives the location of all their stations nationwide. My navigator :rolleyes: keeps it in her map pocket. We also have The Next Exit which will give you a full listing of restaurants, shopping and fuel stations at every exit on the entire Interstate Highway System. And there is the GPS as well. All good resources for finding what you need. At 22 cents a gallon you could have bought the book and had change to spare...

    Sounds like a great campsite. Enjoy your stay. :D If your schedule is flexible, the Space Shuttle is scheduled to launch on May 11 with a second launch scheduled for May 20! I am hoping to see at least one if not two. We'll be headed to Florida soon. ;)


  2. I second the suggested blog! You could share your adventure with us as you travel. We in turn could comment on things like: If your going there you should see... or, I didn't know there was one of those there... You might think that those of us who travel full time wouldn't be interested in your travels but each of us has our own unique interests and we pursue different interests when we travel. Your blog will help widen our world by seeing it through your eyes.

    When we started traveling full time almost eight years ago now I started sending a weekly e-mail to our children and mothers. My son printed out each one and kept it for his children, just 2 and 1 years old at the time. I didn't think to do that so when I changed computers or cleared old e-mails I lost all those records of our travels. I wish I had them on the computer now. At least we have the printed information.

    Like Gary says, enhance your journal with any special talents and interests. Perhaps you'll end up with a book or movie!


  3. Joel,

    Several other entries in the Motorhome: Buying a motorhome forum deal with extended warranties, and there are good ongoing discussions about each of them:

    RV Warranty insurance

    Extended warranty, which company is best?

    Extended Service Plan - What do you suggest?

    I don't know of a site that compares the various companies' plans. I know that there are several major plans available but have encountered some small more product/dealer oriented programs as well. If there is a site out there for comparing the programs I'll bet someone knows about it. :rolleyes:


  4. Thanks Tom.

    Also, I have heard that if you put a little vegetable oil in the drain, the water will not evaporate (maybe as fast). The oil floats to the top in the drain and the air/water evaporation process is slowed down.

    I have not tried that, and probably will not have to as I use mine to frequently, but should be good for long term storage.

    Edited: Also, for the toilet bowl, put some water in a plastic zip lock about half full. Put the bag in a Wally-world bag with handles and lower it against the ball trap. The water in the bag will seal around the ball until you are ready to use it.

    Thank you Wayne! So many good ideas out there. Both these are excellent solutions for keeping drains sealed.


  5. Mikemopar,

    I don't have experience with the 300 Cummins but did have an 8.3 liter Cummins, 1994 vintage. That engine as our current Cummins 400 was coupled with an Allison 6 speed automatic transmission. The 8.3 liter Cummins was pulling a little over 15 tons plus a toad of almost 6000 pounds. Our experience was that you could expect the engine to pull down on a 6% grade to a speed of 30 to 35 in third gear on a long 6% grade with that load. I don't know what your total GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) will be but that might give you something to compare with.

    Today our Cummins 400 ISL does about the same with our 16 ton motor home and the same toad. I don't consider that to be too bad a problem. With any large vehicle and the characteristics of the diesel engine, you will get about the same. I am usually able to pass the loaded trucks easily on such grades without straining the engine. More important, I have never encountered a grade that we couldn't climb with either engine.

    Compare your weights to our vehicles and perhaps that will help you decide the capability of the engine/motor home you decide to finally purchase. Remember that a motor home is not a car and you will not find one that will perform or drive like a car. Travel in a motor home can be very relaxing if you go with the flow rather than trying to always get somewhere fast. Enjoy your journey!


  6. I recently picked up a Rand McNally Deluxe Motor Carriers' Road Atlas at Flying J for less than $30.00. Among the benefits are highlighted truck routes. For these truck routes it also gives all low clearance locations in each state. We have used a previous edition for four years and decided it was time to get the latest information. Yes there are length restrictions for almost every state and they vary widely. Tow laws are also a part of this publication. The pages of the atlas are laminated and they do last for years of heavy use. It includes all of Canada and Mexico. Our rig is 40 (Windsor) + 20 (Trailblazer) + 5 (BikeE bicycles) = 65. I don't always use the truck routes, there are some great back roads and I will sometimes brave them. We have traveled in all 50 states and all of Canada with the exception of Quebec, Newfoundland/Labrador and Nunavut. I have been stopped by low clearance once when I wasn't anticipating it, railroad underpass in Pennsylvania.

    I don't use it but there is a big rig campground directory available. You might check it out on the internet (www.big-rigs-rv.com/) and/or at an RV dealer. We go to all kinds of campgrounds but don't have the trailer. We tow the Trailblazer on a tow bar and it can be unhooked in a few minutes. The above mentioned Trailer Life Campground Directory has a pretty reliable listing of the typical size of campsites including length. Call ahead and specify the length of your rig and the campground host/owners should be able to tell you if they can give you a site to accommodate your rig. We always do this when we want to be able to park without having to unhook. Owners are usually eager to fit you in if they can.

    You have some ambitious plans, enjoy the trip!


  7. Several thoughts on your problem.

    First, I have tried a number of tank additives and we are currently using the odor control from 5 Star Happy Camper, http://www.5starhappycamper.com/index.html Over the last four years we have found their product economical and effective. We have tried several others but always go back to this product. Purchased in bulk it doesn't take up too much space for a year's supply. We pack a 6 month supply in two 40 oz. containers which are about the size of two TP rolls. We then order the 130 oz. size and refill the smaller containers as needed. The large container is stored at "home" which for us is my daughters home. No product will make the black water smell good but this product is very effective in our experience and it is friendly for septic systems.

    I agree that you must have some kind of leak in the venting system or the tank. The fact that this occurs only when the tank is 3/4 full or more suggests that the vent pipe extends into the black water tank a distance of about equal to the top 1/4 of the tank. Once the level of the liquid reaches that level, the vent pipe will be blocked off. Resulting odors will find their way out through any weak spot in the system. This would be around the vent pipe, perhaps a bad seal on the vent pipe entry into the tank or a crack in the top of the tank. Such an escape route would be near ground level and would explain why you would smell the odor as you sit outside your coach. Hope this helps.


  8. Gary,

    I should have mentioned the Flying J provision to get cash price at truck pumps requires the Flying J Credit Card. I got mine last fall when they changed to this method. Yes, you are right, the 5% discount beats the cash discount price. I usually am patient enough to use the RV pumps if they aren't too convoluted to get into. I too find them to be a challenge sometimes with our rig, also about 65 feet. Getting the cash discount plus the 5% cash back beats it all!

    I tend to avoid the truck pumps because of the amount of spilled diesel and the difference in the cash price provisions. But when necessary, I do use them.


  9. Water vapor collecting on the interior of a motor home can cause problems from fogged windows to mold and delamination of wall and roof panels. Preventing this accumulation of moisture inside the motor home is the purpose of this article. I have seen discussions of this problem with varying levels of understanding. I hope this helps to advance the understanding of water vapor problems in motor homes.

    There are several reasons that moisture control in a motor home is more difficult than in a sticks and bricks house. Size is a big factor. Inside my Class A motor home, with about a 360 square foot floor plan, I have less than 2500 cubic feet of air. In a small home with a 1000 square foot floor plan there are about 8000 cubic feet of air. More air allows more water vapor to be absorbed before noticing a problem. The smaller your motor home, the more extreme this factor becomes. The other major factor is the difference in insulation. Even the best motor homes have marginal insulation compared to houses. If the insulation is lacking or thin in some areas of the motor home, those areas will be most strongly affected by moisture accumulation.

    As a result, normal activities you do in a house now cause problems in the motor home. Activities which account for most of the problems are cooking, washing and showering. These activities involve heated water which enters the air in quantity. This moisture will be removed from the air by any cold surface in the motor home. In our motor home we have pretty good insulation and sealed double pane windows everywhere but the windshield. So the first place we see moisture accumulate is the windshield. I have read of complaints of others finding moisture on outside walls behind the couch or inside cabinets. The latter two are likely cold because heated air in the motor home is not circulating to those locations. As a result, the wall surface there is colder than other surfaces in the motor home. Water vapor however does not need forced air to move it from one place to another. Water vapor will spread evenly throughout any mass of air, moving from areas of high concentration (like the shower or pot on a stove) to areas of low concentration, a process called diffusion.

    Since cold surfaces take water vapor out of the air, converting it back to water, areas near cold surfaces will be areas of low concentration of water vapor and it will continue to migrate to these locations and water will continue to condense until the level of water vapor in the entire motor home has dropped or the cold surface has warmed.

    As a result of the above, the time when you have the most serious problems with water vapor is during cold weather. The solution to the problem is simple though not entirely obvious. Any time water vapor sources are active in the house, showering, cooking, even washing dishes, the water vapor must be actively removed from the motor home. By actively removing water vapor, I really mean using the ventilation fans to remove water vapor. Any time you use a vent fan, you must have an open window or other vent to allow outside air into the motor home. Now, if this is only a problem during cold weather that means you must allow some cold air into the motor home as the vent fan pushes out the moist air. Even if it is raining outside, the air you bring in will have much less moisture than the air being exhausted. Cold air can't hold as much water vapor (this is why cold surfaces remove water vapor from the cold air near their surface).

    So there you are, taking a shower on a cold day and I am telling you to turn on the vent fan and open a window! If you do this, your windows and windshield won't fog up, moisture won't collect on walls or ceiling. Put a small electric heater in the bathroom while you shower to deal with the incoming cold air. The furnace or heat pump will take care of the cold air in the rest of the house. Yes, it costs more to heat that cold air but you only need to do so during the brief period while cooking, washing or showering.

    An additional step you can take is to dry the shower after use. If you step out of the shower and leave it wet, that water will evaporate into the air and will contribute to any moisture condensing on windows and walls. I use a squeegee to wipe the water from the walls and door and then sweep the water from the floor down the drain. If you want to keep the shower really clean, you can wipe any remaining moisture off the walls and door and you won't have any water spots. But this moisture wiped off with a cloth or sponge will enter the air in the motor home fairly quickly so it won't reduce the moisture problem. That is why I use the squeegee first. Water down the drain is not going to come back into the air in any significant quantity.

    Finally, I want to mention problems caused by water vapor in warm weather. If you are running your air conditioner, you should be following the same rules above to save money rather than to maintain your motor home. The water that drips from your air conditioner is water that condenses from the air in your motor home as it is passed over the condenser coils of the air conditioner. Water vapor carries heat energy. When water evaporates it removes heat (think of what you feel like when you get out of the swimming pool). To condense the water out of the air in the air conditioner takes energy. Heat from the water vapor is transferred to the coils as it changes back into water. This makes the air conditioner work harder (or longer). If you aren't paying an electric bill I guess you wouldn't care about the cost of operating your air conditioner but the park owner will be concerned about that cost and it is factored into the rate you pay for your site. Ventilating to remove excess moisture from the air while showering or cooking, even if you are drawing in warm outside air, is more efficient than having the air conditioner do it. In very few cases would the incoming air contain more heat than the heat contained in the water vapor you are removing with the vent fan.

    A few basic facts. Water moves heat energy around very efficiently. A gram of water (a very small quantity - about 30 drops) requires 1 calorie (a unit of heat energy) to raise its temperature 1 degree Celsius. When you melt one gram of ice at 0 C and change it into one gram of water at 0 C it requires 80 calories. This is why ice is so efficient at keeping your drink cold. As the ice melts it absorbs a large amount of heat, 80 calories, for each gram of ice melted. That same 80 calories would raise the temperature of one gram of your drink 80 degrees Celsius. Now, as spectacular as this seems, the numbers are even more amazing for the water to water vapor change. Changing one gram of water to one gram of water vapor takes 540 calories. This is true whether boiling water on a stove or evaporating water from your skin when you get out of the swimming pool. No wonder water cools you so nicely as it evaporates. So water vapor carries this huge amount of energy with it. When it condenses on the windows of your motor home it is warming them, that heat is then transferred to the cold air outside. When water vapor condenses on your drink glass it transfers that heat energy to your drink. This is why even a thin insulating layer on a glass will efficiently help keep the drink cold. One gram of water vapor on the side of your drink glass will warm one gram of your drink 540 degrees Celsius! Or another way of saying that is to say one gram of water condensing on the outside of your drink glass will raise the temperature of 540 grams (about 10 ounces) of your drink one degree Celsius!


  10. Every FMCA member should be using the Flying J fuel discount program. For diesel, you get cash price when using a credit card (this amounts to about 5 to 7 cents per gallon over credit card price). Plus, you get a 1 cent per gallon discount, which doesn't sound like much, but if you couple that with the discount to the cash price, it is significant. If you haven't applied for the RV Discount Card, stop by Flying J or visit the web site and put in your application.

    I have the Flying J credit card as well but don't find it to be saving me much money. There are better credit cards with cash-back provisions for fuel purchase. I don't know about the availability of these today; several that I use have been trimmed back to limit their value to me. Discover offers a 5% discount but recently limited it to just $5 per month! I use it to feed the toad. If I spend $100 on fuel in a month, I'll get a $5 cash back credit. We also have a Chase and Citi card that offer cash back for fuel, groceries and drug store purchases. The grocery discounts don't apply at discount stores (Wal-Mart). Chase still offers the 5% discount the card started with several years ago. Citi recently trimmed theirs back to 2%. Still, that is significant savings. A 5% discount on diesel at $2.20 per gallon amounts to 11 cents per gallon cash back. At 2% it is only 4.4 cents per gallon. If (when) fuel prices go back up, the discounts are bigger. At $4 per gallon, 5% gives you 20 cents a gallon and 2% gives you 8 cents a gallon. Multiply these amounts by your normal fuel purchase (100 gallons is not unusual for our Windsor. At 10 cents a gallon, that saves me $10 on a tank of fuel. Every month or so we are getting a check for $20, $50 or $60 from our credit cards! The caveat, of course, is that you must be paying off your credit card balances every month. If you are paying them interest, then they win and you lose!

    These cash-back offers work on fuel purchased at Flying J after their discounts have been applied. So you get cash price with a credit card at Flying J plus a penny discount and then use a cash-back credit card to pay for the fuel.


  11. We have owned two motor homes, a used (third owner) 1994 Monaco Dynasty and a brand spanking new 2004 Monaco Windsor. We have had no end of minor problems that have been fixed at Monaco rallies and at the factory as well as the dealer. I could list them but it would take too long.

    Given that, keep in mind that a motor home is like few other vehicles. We were at a Allison shop in Tennessee when an owner of a bus conversion came up and started a conversation. He reasoned that RV's were like boats, there was always something to be fixed. We were in for routine maintenance but I understood what he meant. An RV is a complex animal. Not at all like your car. We have AC and DC electric that power an endless list of convenience items, a full plumbing system and an endless list of appliances all manufactured by third parties. Every time we drive, our home (we are full timers) has a magnitude 3 or 4 earthquake, sometimes even a 5!

    Imagine being a quality control person who has to check everything on the motor home before releasing it. This one has two slides, the next has four slides. There is a full home theater set up to be checked. One has satellite TV and you don't even have a subscription to check that out, the next has just an antenna. Check all the plumbing for the shower, bath, kitchen, washer/drier.

    We owned our motor home for a YEAR before we realized that there was a heating vent that had been covered with carpet! I have learned to do as much work on the motor home as I can. I purchased a full supply of fittings for the rear support on the drawer slides in our motor home after the first one failed! I found a suitable substitute at Lowe's and bought about 24 packages. I'm about 80% done with those replacements. The next year our manufacturer went to a completely different system. I'm guessing they heard from many other owners that had the same experience we had. I keep a supply of cabinet hinges, drawer latches and switches on hand for the eventual failures. We are replacing our inverter in the next week because the old inverter lost the auto-gen start and fixing it would cost almost as much as having a new full sine wave inverter installed.

    Monaco repairs many items at rallies that are sponsored by the company - at least they used to before the recent bankruptcy filing and subsequent pending sale to Navistar (International Harvester). I know that manufacturers could do better but the wonderful machines we drive are light years from the early motor homes. They will get better if the market will support them in the future. But if they get perfect, most of us will not be able to afford them. Maybe we can't afford them now! Who knows? Enjoy it while you have it.


  12. Let me ask a few questions that might help others answer your question.

    When you say you are trying to hook up your satellite from the house, I assume you are talking about the receiver unit (the box between the dish and the TV). Is this correct? What model and satellite provider is this box? The more details you can give, the better the responses you will get here.

    When you refer to instructions, I would have to assume you are using the Winegard instructions. Have you tried to contact Winegard for technical support? Have you tried to contact the provider of the receiver, you satellite TV provider, for technical support?

    I'm not familiar with the Wingard system so can't really help you with anything specific to do to correct your situation. For our Direct TV system, a specific receiver box is required to make the system work with the KWH dish. You may not have a receiver box that is compatible with the Winegard system.


  13. Here is a simple fix that I arrived at several years ago. When traveling we sometimes go for a week or so without a hookup to sewer and water. During this time we don't use the washer/drier in the motor home. Drive a little bit and the water in the drain trap will slosh out and evaporate until the trap is no longer sealing the passage to the gray water tank. Once that trap no longer seals the gray water tank, a very unpleasant odor is drawn into the motor home. No amount of tank treatment will completely prevent this odor. The solution is to keep the drain filled with water.

    I drilled a hole in the closet floor above the drier drain pipe in our motor home. Then I put a transmission filler funnel in the hole with the long extension of the funnel into the drain pipe for the washer. I attached the funnel to the back wall of the closet with a single screw just to stabilize it in an upright position.

    Now when we haven't used the washer for some time I will pour a glass of water down the funnel and keep water standing in the trap. This is much simpler and uses less water than running the washer for even a short time. It only takes a small glass or two of water occasionally to keep the drain filled. Problem solved!

    If you haven't used the shower in a while, the same process, a glass or two of water down the drain will keep that trap filled as well. Both traps have gone dry from time to time and we now watch them pretty closely.


  14. A friend of ours came to our door last week and shared some useful information. Our winter resort, Sandpipers, has several WiFi antennas. From time to time one of the units will drop out. Knowing I had been having difficulty with the unit nearest to our lot he suggested we try a modem and antenna he had been using. I said sure, let me see how it works. I loaded the software and installed the modem. Now I was able to connect to any of three park antennas even though I was located quite far from one of them. I had good strong signal at an antenna that was 1000 feet away! So if one antenna went off line for one reason or another, I could connect to another that was still working! Instead of seeing three or four WiFi signals from other computers and the park system, I now was seeing 20 or so signals from other computers and every antenna in the park.

    I looked for something like this several years ago when we were touring British Columbia, Yukon and Alaska. Campgrounds with WiFi seldom had strong signals and I would have to go to the office to get signal. It was better than having to connect to a phone line but still less convenient than working from the motor home. I went to a computer shop then looking for exactly what I had now! They said there was nothing available. I assume this product has appeared in the last two years.

    The modem is an ALFA Network wireless USB adapter, Model AWUS036H. It puts out a 500 mW signal and greatly improves reception. My friend ordered a larger antenna, 12 inches, to replace the 3 inch antenna that comes with the ALFA modem. Both items were less than $80 including shipping.

    He purchased these through Pasadena Networks, LLC www.wlanparts.com

    If you are frequently experiencing marginal WiFi reception, I heartily recommend this modem and antenna. The modem works with Windows systems through Vista and Mac OS.


  15. I have seen advertisements for Easy Water water softeners that don't use salt or add sodium to the water. Their web site easywater.com gives some information but the scientist in me says it sounds like hokum! The unit for this water softener is a small box, works on 120 VAC, and has a sleeve that fits on the incoming water line. It works with plastic as well as copper water lines. On the surface it looks ideal for motor homes. It takes little room, weighs very little and not having to use salt or chemicals to process the water are all positives.

    My question, does it really work? They claim the system realigns the mineral molecules in the water so they won't precipitate out in your hot water heater or affect the soap in your shower or washer. I haven't found any independent evaluation of this water softening system. If you have seen an independent evaluation or have experience with this system either in your motor home or in your home, I would like to hear from you about your experience.


  16. One problem I have encountered with the time zone adjustment. I just went back to change time zones and found that the auto DST adjustment doesn't seem to be working. If I enter the correct time zone the time shown is one hour off. If I select the time zone one zone to the east then the time is correct. I have the auto adjustment box checked (default) but it doesn't seem to take effect.


  17. OK Wayne, you win! I laughed until I cried! The worst I could claim from my motorcycle days was a bumble bee that got between my helmet and my ear! I managed to stay on the road and get stopped to dig it out. Fortunately it was disabled by the impact!

    Too bad you didn't have someone capture your adventure on videotape! You could win the annual Funniest Home Videos contest!


  18. SEAJAY,

    Loved the account, you have a great sense of humor considering the fun you've had - or not! Anyway, your account is typical of the things we have had happen to us. If you are going to live on the road, be ready for the fun, keep those shux, fudge and sunny beaches close at hand, you will get a chance to use them! But all in all, the life is well worth it! It does take a certain amount of patience and cool hand luke attitude to get through those rough days.

    And, oh yes, take it easy on those Marines, I think they are headed for Somalia!!!!


  19. This device is for those who venture off the grid on a regular basis. I am talking about hiking trails in National Parks, National Forests, wilderness areas. Or do you drive remote roads in search of adventure? If you are a fisherman, boater, mountain climber, or just travel remote areas, this device is something you should have. I found this last year when it was mentioned in an article in the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA). I think I have seen it also in an article in FMCA Family Motor Coaching Magazine but I can't find the reference.

    SPOT is a GPS receiver which transmits your location to a separate commercial satellite when you are in need of assistance. If you find yourself or your vehicle disabled by an accident or medical situation, you may need to get help. Your cell phone might help rescue personnel find you if you can tell them right where you are located. Of course if you are beyond cell phone range it will be of no use to you. If your cell phone batteries go dead you are out of luck.

    With SPOT you simply press the 911 button, make sure it has a clear view of the sky and it notifies SPOT emergency personnel of the your emergency call and gives your GPS location. They will then contact the appropriate emergency personnel and trigger a rescue. An insurance plan is available which will pay for your rescue expenses. Sounds expensive? SPOT sells for $169 and an annual service contract costs just under $100. The emergency rescue insurance policy is about $6 per person for one year of coverage!

    SPOT runs on three triple A Lithium Batteries which will last for one week sending out emergency messages. SPOT keeps sending until shut off. To make sure we have good batteries, I carry an extra set with us any time we are out using our SPOT.

    I figure that at my age (62) anything could happen when I am out hiking or 4 wheeling in some remote area. Accidents happen and a broken ankle could be life threatening if you couldn't get help. We have all read stories of individuals or families trapped by snow storms, lost hikers, an able bodied hiker gets his arm stuck under a boulder and cuts his arm off after several days hoping for rescue, boaters adrift in a disabled boat, the stories go on and on. I consider this device to be an excellent investment in peace of mind. Whenever we travel, SPOT is with us. I keep it in the backpack when hiking, on the dash of the airplane when flying, on my bicycle bag when riding, on the car dash when out exploring. In short, anytime we are away from civilization, SPOT is with us. There is an option to have SPOT keep track of your movements, it reports your location every 10 minutes and when you get home you can trace your movements on your computer. With a click, you can see your movements plotted on Google Maps or Google Earth! Rescuers shouldn't have to search any more, they should be able to see where you are on a map and plan a rescue to that point. Much simpler and much faster rescue is the result.

    Need help but it isn't an emergency rescue situation, you can select several people to receive a help message. Press the help button and your two people will receive a prerecorded message from you via e-mail and phone. They can then come to your assistance. They will know where you are located with the GPS information and can also see you location on Google Maps or Google Earth on their computer. This might be good if you have a flat tire and just want a nearby friend or relative to come give you a hand. You could notify your emergency road service with this method. Ever try to tell emergency road service personnel where you are. Imagine if you could send them your GPS location and they could look it up on a map on their computer.

    Our daughters enjoy getting regular check message e-mails from our SPOT. Each time we turn it on, we use the Check/OK button to send a message to ourselves and it also goes to our two daughters. It lets them know where we are before we start an adventure. Great peace of mind for everyone.

    Find out more about SPOT at Findmespot.com


  20. Wayne,

    I'm sour on extended warranty plans. I bought GS ESP when we purchased a used motor home in 2001. They didn't require an inspection of the motor home. When I called about a problem the first words out of the agents mouth were, "You haven't had this policy very long." Things went downhill from there. I talked to the shop doing the repair and they said they wouldn't work with GS ESP because they didn't want to pay for anything. Keep in mind this was a "minor" claim. It wouldn't have amounted to more than $500.

    So in late 2003 we bought our brand new 2004 motor home from a dealer at a manufacturers motor home show. This time we bought the extended warranty from the dealer. Within a year the dealer went out of business - bankrupt and then opened again on the same location with a new name. I never had to file a claim, we're now past the 5 years. But if I did have to file a claim I wouldn't have anybody at the dealer to back me up in the claim and with the record of the dealer I'm not sure the money ever was paid to the warranty service company. I'm not sure what assurances I would accept on such a deal.

    I consider extended warranties to be a scam where you are pitted against the warranty company. Their objective is to pay as little as possible on a claim, your objective is to get the repair done properly at no cost. They will deny a claim if they can find any reason to do so, e.g. inadequate proof of maintenance performed in a timely manner, etc. Read the contract very carefully. Remember they have a staff of lawyers to write the contract and you have, well, you. If you buy an extended warranty, make sure you have impeccable records. It takes better record keeping than TAXES! Keep receipts, make sure they always show mileage and date for service performed. Make sure that maintenance is performed per manufacturers schedule or in some cases the extended warranty schedule. The second contract had provisions for service (oil change, filter, etc.) that exceeded the Cummins recommendations. There is a big GOTCHA!

    Caveat emptor... Let the buyer beware!


  21. One other thing to pass along. The reason give for our motor home using the Leece Neville was that their alternators produced a higher percentage of the rated amperage at running temperatures than the "other" alternator. I can't remember what the other generator was when this was given as a reason in 2002 when we had our work done. I know that the alternator that was in our rig was rated higher amperage than the Leece Neville but they specified the Leece Neville. Also, I noticed I wrote battery isolator when I meant to refer to the battery cut-off switch and a relay associated with that. Let us know what the resolution is when you finally find the problem.

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