cdsuggs

Well, the generator started an ran when we got to the garage. I loaded it up with the air conditioners and water heater and let it run for an hour. Lesson learned. If nothing else, when they ask about the under-chassis wash, say no. Thanks for all of the info.

Thanks for the input. IF I ever take it to a truck wash again, I'll definitely tell them not to do the underneath wash. I feel that's part of what happened.

It is clean though. The only thing I can think of right now is give it the night to dry out. Will probably try out the generator tomorrow afternoon in Oklahoma. At least there it will be a month before I have to go anywhere.

I've got a QD8000 in my 2010 Fleetwood Discovery. On the way to the campground in Arlington, TX today, I stopped at the Blue Beacon Truck Wash and got the coach a much needed bath. Now when I start the generator, it runs for several seconds and shuts down. The EC30 gives me a service code of 3 followed by a code of 38 stating that there is an over-current condition. It was running ok before. Sounds to me like something got wet that shouldn't have, but I don't even have a clue about where to start looking. Any pointers would be appreciated.

33 degrees. No wonder my butt was cold sitting on the asphalt. Just to cover the bases that Carl mentioned, both front tires were set at 115 psi. The highest temp I saw on any tire all day was 88 degrees. The rears were set at 105 and the temps were similar. Those pressures were taken using my electronic gauge from Tire Minder. The running pressures were read on my A1A model Tire Minder. Of course, they only guarantee a 3% accuracy. Two readings could be 6 psi different and still be within the system capability. Not trying to cause a ruckus. Just relating a random thought that sprung into my mind. The two articles tireman9 directed me to pretty much spelled out the answers to my queries. However, I never would have found them if I hadn't asked. By the way, the air that I used to adjust the tires before leaving home was taken from the coach air. With about 20% relative humidity, it should have been pretty dry. Can't say much about the air already in the tires though. Last time I went up any about 6 months ago I used my Viair.

Tried to look at the markings on the top of the batteries, but they weren't marked. The rest of the compartment was pretty dirty for what that means. The leveling system that I've got is a Power Gear Automatic system. I don't have the control panel in front of me, but have found a manual online that gives me some information, as soon as I figure out exactly which jacks I have. Didn't have any trouble in Texarkana, but that was on a pretty level asphalt parking lot.

The two links went a long way in letting me know that others may also have minds full of very interesting thoughts that are of somewhat less use than they are interesting. Some of what I read was information that I knew. My major background is in military strategic/tactical aviation. Large aircraft tires are similar to large truck or RV tires, except that they get worn out much faster and are filled with nitrogen which is normally converted from liquid nitrogen. This makes the pressures much more stable, especially since tire temperatures can vary between as low as -50 degrees centigrade and +200 degrees centigrade. Convert that to Fahrenheit and you find temperatures that you would definitely not wish to place your bare hand on. In both the C-141 and the C-17, the safety factor for tire limiting speed was 150%. I don’t know what the bursting pressure would be, but I suspect it would be rather high. In the case that I was referring to, after weighing the coach, we came up with a minimum pressure on the rear tires of 95 psi. Adding a 10% safety factor gives me a pressure of 105. That is what I had the rear tires set at. The wheel is stamped for a 120-psi temperature in a dual configuration. I believe that it does say cold, but am not at the coach right now to check. The tire pressures were set early Saturday morning. The tires were correct at the time. About 2 hours after leaving Texarkana, the left outside tire was 88 degrees Fahrenheit and the pressure read 121 psi. It just jumped into my mind that “hey, that’s above the pressure that it says on the wheel.” I wasn’t concerned that the wheel would break. I used to do some rather outlandish things to oval track stock car tires go get them around the corner. A broken wheel there at an inopportune time could be sort of interesting too. My question is intended to stimulate interest in something that we should, and sometimes do, take seriously. If it’s worth doing, it’s worth understanding. Thanks for the info. By the way, the tires are Michelin XZE2+ 275/70R22.5's.

I noticed something on our way back from the South Central Area rally yesterday. I had checked all of the tire pressures before I left, and they were all set to what was intended. A couple of hours into the ride home I noticed that one of the rear tires had actually built pressure to 1 pound above the limit for the tire and the wheel. That got me to thinking, hard as that may be. Everything that I read refers to the COLD pressures. I'm assuming that the limits on the tires and wheels make allowance for the expected pressure increase as the tire warms up to the expected temperature. I realize that this is more of a theoretical question, but does anyone have an opinion on how that is determined, especially since most of us don't use N2 to inflate our tires, don't always operate at sea level, and the difference in the maximum temperature and the cold temperature can differ due to conditions such as weight, relative wind and speed?

Thanks for the pointers about where or how to answer the questions. The reason that I asked about over-extending is simply because I've seen some reference to that in forum posts. Th e leveling system on my Discovery won't even work without the engine running, so I always have the engine running at high idle when leveling. I still occasionally get a low battery light if any of the jacks extend close to what I believe is their maximum extension. The batteries were in the coach when I bought it in June 2016. They looked new, but I have no way of determining that for sure. They are watered and the connections are cleaned regularly. The reason I was looking for the full extend length was simply for information purposes to understand the equipment. I come from a work background ,back when I had a job, where there are no unimportant questions regarding the equipment you operate, especially considering the disastrous results possible with incomplete knowledge.

This has probably already been covered and I'm just too technically challenged to find it. I have read in several threads references about something or other with the leveling jacks fully extended. Well, how in the heck do I know when the jacks are fully extended? There are also references about over-extending the jacks. Same question. On my Discovery, I will sometimes get a low voltage message, but don't know if that means they are completely extended. I also haven't seen any references anywhere that tell how much they will extend, though I don't think I would want to crawl under there and measure.

Guess it's time to start looking for the dough to get this done. I might have overdone it with showing the DW the film.

Thanks for the info. I showed my wife the dash film of motorhome having a blowout. She said I need to order one. Just don't believe that I'm capable, or have the facilities to do it myself. Not quite sure who I would trust to do a decent job. Camping World is generally not my first choice for anything.

One more idea. I recently inherited a Transcend mini cpap from my son when he passed away. I cleaned it up and took it to the folks that set up my Resmed system, and they used the same numbers to set up the mini. It has a battery pack about the size of a deck of cards that will power the cpap all night. Resmed has recently put out one of their own that is about the size of an electric shaver, but it's fairly expensive.

The main thing that brought me to the Safe-T-Plus idea was the blowout control. I've talked to a couple of people with gas motorhomes that swear by the system. Just haven't found one who had a DP. I've been rather remiss in getting the coach weighed. Right now, I'm making an educated "assumption" that I am not overweight and am using the Michelin numbers for the max weights for each end of the coach, using 50% of that to go into the chart. Haven't really started looking for a place to get the alignment checked yet, though I know I should. If you call someone other than a Spartan service center, you get some interesting responses, and I hate to drive several hundred miles to have the alignment checked. Same goes for having it installed.

I realize that this is an old string, but thought I would ask this here. Has anyone installed the Safe-T-Plus on a Fleetwood Discovery? If so, did it help the "wandering" much? Since I am not a great mechanic, who would you trust to install/adjust it?