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john_harris

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Posts posted by john_harris

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Had same issue while on the road. Not wanting to buy whole motor, I ended up filing the end cap to create a flat groove that aligned with the flat part of the shaft. Then I inserted a flat aluminum wedge cut from a piece of alum bar purchased at Lowes for $3. Total cost of fix was less than $30 including the files and hack saw. Much less than the cost of new motor.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    As for roads from Gatlingurg to Charlottesville, for a newbie, I suggust sticking with 441 north to Sevierville, then 66 to I-40 east till you get to I-81 north, all the way to I-64 east at Stanton then I-64 to Charlottesville. Nice scenery but 4 lane all the way.

    The Blue Ridge Parkway out of the North Carolina side of GSMNP is a beautiful drive and goes all the way to I-64 just west of Charlottesville but is a very curvy, 45 mph scenic drive not well suited to large rv's unless you are very comfortable with narrow roads. Likewise, the Skyline drive in VA which also parallels I-81 but north of I-64 is great for scenery and there is a nice campground at Big Meadows at MP 50 is nice stop but again, it is relatively narrow 2 lanes with lots of curves and a just a few ups and downs. While both are winding, they generally follow the ridges so they do not have really not steep grades. If you have a toad and are able to camp somewhere accessible to either road, it is well worth the time to at least sample the views from the ridges.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Great responses. Thanks particularly to Tom and Brett. The solenoid was right where Tom said it would be and yes it was dead. I continue to be impressed with the amount of helpful information that is exchanged across the FMCA blog. I for one, did not know you could get the smoke put back in electronic equipment after you accidentially released it. :rolleyes:

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Donald,

    In our coach the battery disconnect switch activates a solenoid which switches the battery circuit on and off. You haven't indicated the make, model and year of your coach so this may or may not apply to your situation. The solenoid is subject to failure and if it does, the switch will do nothing. If we know the information about your coach, someone may be able to direct you where to look for the solenoid.

    A second possibility is that the house batteries are dead. Yes, you shut off the batteries with the disconnect switch but there are a number of other loads that are not disconnected by the battery shut off switch in most coaches. Some of these parasitic loads include the smoke/carbon monoxide/propane detectors, various electronic indicators and other things the manufacturer may have wired outside the battery cutoff circuit. They are small loads but may in a weeks time completely discharge the battery.

    Tom, We too have a Monaco product, a 2007 HR Endeavor and just recently experienced the battery disconnect switch problems. The switch has been cutting out requiring a reset by turning switch back on. Battery seems to be fully charged. On two occasions, the coach was plugged into shore power with battery tender connected. If the solenoid is subject to failure, is this the likely problem or perhaps an indication of another problem? Is the solenoid easily replaced?

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Donald,

    In our coach the battery disconnect switch activates a solenoid which switches the battery circuit on and off. You haven't indicated the make, model and year of your coach so this may or may not apply to your situation. The solenoid is subject to failure and if it does, the switch will do nothing. If we know the information about your coach, someone may be able to direct you where to look for the solenoid.

    A second possibility is that the house batteries are dead. Yes, you shut off the batteries with the disconnect switch but there are a number of other loads that are not disconnected by the battery shut off switch in most coaches. Some of these parasitic loads include the smoke/carbon monoxide/propane detectors, various electronic indicators and other things the manufacturer may have wired outside the battery cutoff circuit. They are small loads but may in a weeks time completely discharge the battery.

    What types of issues might cause the solenoid to fail?

  7. Posted · Report reply

    John,

    There are several things working to shorten the life of your refrigerator. The more of them you address, the longer it will likely live.

    Cooling system rust through. In a humid climate, less condensation forms on the metal coils and therefore less rust if the unit is ON (coils stay well above the dew point).

    Rust in flue and burner is reduced for the same reason if the unit is ON.

    Insect nests in burner tube, flue and even the open areas of the cooling unit are discouraged if the unit is ON.

    There are no moving parts in an absorption refrigerator, so you are not "wearing anything out" by leaving it ON.

    Conclusion, particularly if stored in a humid climate is leave it ON.

    Our original Dometic installed by Foretravel in 1992 finally died (cooling unit leak) early this year after running continuously for over 16 years.

    If you live in and store it in the desert, or at a place where you don't want to leave it on, be sure to open the freezer and refrigerator doors and if for a long time, get some fine-mesh nylon screen and cover the roof and side vents to keep insects out. Do NOT leave the fine-mesh screen on when running, it really reduces air flow that is necessary for proper refrigerator function.

    Brett Wolfe

  8. Posted · Report reply

    So, over the long haul, is it ok to keep the refrigerator running on shore power while motorhome is stored, say for 3 to 4 weeks between trips, or should we shut it off for those periods between trips. It is nice not to have to load and unload refrigerator every time but if that could shorten the life of unit, it might not be worth it. Any thoughts???

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Tunnel clearance is missleading as the tunnel is arched and posted clearance is not in the middle, I have seen large RV's travel through it but we opted not to try in in our 40 ft HR that tops out at 13'5. Easy entrance is at Swift Run Gap (MP65 or so) near Harrisonburg or if comming from further south the entrance off I- 64 at Rockfish Gap (MP96). Traveling north to Big Meadows at Mp 50 is best bet for camping. Campground can handle largest of coaches. Travel along the drive in RV is not a problem as speeds are low and large trucks service the lodges at Big Meadows and Skyland which seems to help keep overhead branches clear. Great overlooks of valleys both on east and west sides of drive. Most popular areas are between tunnel and Swift Run son not too big a deal if you can't clear the tunnel. Restaraunt at Big Meadows is a bit better than the one at skyland. hiking to Soney Man Mountain, Hawksbill and Dark Hollow Falls are a must. Spend time watching wildlife in the Meadows. Black bear sitings are common so food storage precautions are in affect. No hook ups but water is generally close. Campstore is also avilable at Waystation next to vistors center. Good starting point for overview and history of the park. Enjoy!!

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