ellisjte

Ok so guess what. The xfer switch didn't cure the issue. It turns out it just had a better tolerance for the excessive current the roof airs were drawing, I'd lose power after about 2 hours vs the 45 minutes to 1 hour I was getting before. Testing revealed that after the AC's were running for some time they were drawing in excess of 20 amps each. Once both AC's got going real good and both compressors would try to cycle it would kick out. Not sure how the breakers didn't get tripped exactly, could be it was just under the tolerance of the breaker... I'll look into that soon. In fact I may be better off just replacing them. The units still cooled well, but after 20 years I guess it was just their time. Most likely just a matter of time until I started having issues on shore power too, or a fire.. I just dropped in two Coleman mach 15 units to replace them and I was able to run both AC's for over 4 hours. It kept the coach a breezy 74 degrees when it was right at 100 and sunny down here in FL. Pretty easy install since there's no ducting or thermostat to deal with. Hardest part was getting the new units on the roof and maneuvering them around. Luckily my Dad came through at his RV resort with a guy on a front end loader. That made it a lot easier! Cost me 20 bucks and a cold beer. I would have paid someone to do it but everywhere I called wanted 3 hours of labor PER UNIT!? Total cost for install between $700 and $900 That is just silly for an easy job that should take an experienced RV tech 2 hours tops. It took me about 3 and it's the first time I'd ever attempted one. I got both units and all the pieces for $1800 from Lazy Days in Seffner, which surprisingly was not a lot more than the online prices I saw. I'd rather deal locally with something like that since shipping those things back and forth in the event of an issue wouldn't be fun. Anyway, the whole point of my post is to let people know to check the draw on old AC units... or risk running around in circles like I did. I'm pretty sure someone mentioned that pretty early on but I'd convinced myself the current draw couldn't be that bad for a couple of reasons. 1. It was doing fine on shore power 2. Time to kick out was longer if the cover was off of the xfer switch. In hindsight, I shoulda checked it anyway! Thanks again for the help, and I hope this thread helps someone else out down the road.

Heck it'd be a pretty quick ride if I could weld some pontoons on the old girl. Hey they put that CAT 3126 in a bunch of boats right?

haha! yeah it'd do the business on one of those Texas porkers for sure. I prefer my little leaver action marlin in .44 mag for hogs though. I'm pretty good with it up to 100 yards... which is about all you'd want to try with that caliber anyway.

Thanks The wife sits down with our Daughter every day when we're out and writes in our family camping journal. I have a pretty great wife, she thinks of things like that... Me, I'm always thinking about getting meat on the grill and making sure everything works... We're in Florida, based near Tampa. Can't wait for our next outing to the Keys in a couple weeks!

Let's try this again. Last time I posted our new rig it blew up the message board for a couple of days and wasn't there when it came back up. It's a 1997 Safari Sahara 3044 with a 250hp Caterpillar mated to an Allison 6 speed transmission. We bought it back in Jan/Feb. It's in amazing shape for a coach its age, and came with some incredibly detailed maintenance records. It was pretty much ready to go when we bought it, just some odds and ends for the most part. My wife and I along with our 6 year old daughter plan on hitting at least one state/federal park every month, and so far we've done just that. The family loves it, and I have something to tinker with. As you all know there's always something to work on with these beasts.

Ok finally! Got the new xfer switch in and ran both AC's on the generator for almost 2 hours and it didn't miss a lick. Kind of a pain to install but I got it done. Thanks to everyone for their input.

Well, I finally got time to go out and install the new xfer switch... and the dang L1 connector was installed sideways. No big deal just unscrew it and turn it around right? Well normally it shouldn't be, but it must have been 1700 on Friday when they assembled that one because the screw that holds it to the contactor was stripped out already. Now I have to wait for a new one. =/ Hope to be able to get her in weekend after this one and confirm the fix.

Another update, I borrowed a multimeter that measures voltage, freq, and amperage. Popped the cover on the ATS started the genny and waited, and waited.. with the cover off it took about an hour to start showing out. Normally it takes about 25/30 minutes. That tells me something is heating up in the ATS and causing the issue. When it kicked out I was still getting 120 on each leg where the genny feeds in and 0 on the other side. About once every 30 seconds it would try to switch and fail. Probably the circuit board going bad, could be exacerbated by bad contacts. Freq looked good, never checked amp draw since I don't think that's my issue and I couldn't find a good place to clamp on the genny feed. I'm convinced it is the ATS, how bout y'all? Ordered an exact replacement for 215 shipped. It's an ESCO ES50M-65N. I'll update after I swap it out.

Ok quick update. Since it's going to be another week before I can get over to Dad's to borrow his gear I figured I'd take a look at the genny control board. There's a heatsink bolted to a chip in the board that had vibrated loose, after seeing that I was sure the board was my problem. Makes sense an overheating chip could cause my issue right? I installed the new dino board and I'm getting the same results. I watched the inverter control panel when it kicked out to get an idea of what's going on. When it dropped it was all at once, not a gradual loss. Then before everything came on again the voltage would flash 65 or 70 then back to 0. It did this 3 or four times and took about 5 minutes to come back. Then 10 minutes later the cycle starts over again. ( Takes about 30 minutes from when I turn the second AC on to kick out initially) So I'm leaning ATS now but I'll wait till I can actually measure what's happening before I buy more parts... Although I may go ahead and do new starting caps on the AC's since the front one is almost surely 20 years old and likely not very effective anyway. It's an esco ATS, I plan to call them and see if that's an issue they've heard of before. Thanks for all the input everyone!

Very good info! Thank you Tom. I'm new to the oil analysis thing, I've always gone by the fluid or equipment manufacturer's recommendations for fluid changes. I'll go ahead with the filter change and get a new baseline sample in.

Thanks Bill. I was Air Force too, SATCOM. Not a lot of fluid in a milstar antenna though! I figure the filters need to be changed on age alone since I can't find any mention of any maintenance on the tranny after the transynd switch over. I'll get that done next week hopefully. I figure on sampling again around December when the engine oil is due.

Hi all, I bought a 97 Safari a few months ago and I'm going through all the things it needs. One thing I wasn't sure of was the health of the transmission fluid. According to some very detailed maintenance records that I received with the coach the Allison MD3060 was fully switched to Transynd at ~66,000 miles. The coach now has a little over 102,000. The mileage on the fluid isn't an issue, but the fluid is about 8 years old. Fluid analysis looks good, nothing bad in it, and viscosity checks out at 7.1, new fluid rates at 7.4 I believe. So I'm thinking all i need to do is a filter swap and top off the fluid with some more transynd. I've attached a slightly redacted copy of my analysis and I'm hoping our friendly neighborhood retired Allison fluids engineer can pop in and validate or obliterate my conclusion. Thanks! Jason

Yeah I should have slowed down to think about that for a second, the other inverter isn't involved here at all. No way to look at that w/o dropping the whole thing out?

I wondered that myself, that limit, if it exits would have to be between the genny and ats I believe, since the past the ATS it's the same if you're on shore or genny. Yeah those things bite! Best left for emergency use only!

Yikes! Yeah I'd like to avoid that if possible, previous owner just replaced the inverter a year before I bought it, it would be a shame to fry it! Not sure if wiring rotting out would be as predictable as what I'm seeing but with looking at for sure!