rayin

Yep, water pump is the restriction, either input/output, OR pump head is bad-if it didn't have low pressure when new.

All should be balanced. Regardless of tire position, an unbalanced tire will wear faster and put more stress on axle bearings. Ever watch a front load clothes washer as it begins to spin out water? It has an automatic load balancer to reduce component wear; sorta like the centramatic balancers for vehicle tires.

The smallest restriction in the fresh water system plumbing determines total flow rate at the faucets. Most RV plumbing has a high pressure limit of 65 PSI, even though the PEX lines are designed for more. FWIW, I bought my last water pump at a farm store, same brand and model # as the OEM, $35 cheaper than RV store.

That's my opinion also. The transmission lines connected to the engine radiator are not for cooling, their purpose is to heat the tranny oil quicker for better tranny performance. I once had that happen, I disconnected both lines and fabricated a connector line for them. That old 1976 Allegro class A(on Dodge chassis) was still that way 10 years later when it was sold, tranny still operated properly, just took longer to reach the normal temperature range.

My bad, anything with 19.5" tires is unlikely to have an engine-driven compressor.

HermanMullins, you remember what Wille Nelson said about eating Armadillos in his Bandolero movie, right?

Have you given any thought to using Rust-Oleum Wipe New? It is widely available, don't have to buy from Amazon.

An ESC worked for us the first 3 yr term, after that we didn't have any claims. A man on irv2.com has a 650hp ISX engine that just dropped #6 cylinder valves for the 3 time in 4 years, he doesn't have an ESC. The first time Cummins chipped in $10,000 on the $30,000 repair bill, none on subsequent repairs.

A Truckers Road Atlas has alls road that are approved for semi's highlighted in yellow/orange. The front section contains bridge heights and weight limits.

Tux? Mine used to fit, about 20 pounds of belly ago, when I could see my boots.

I carry a 150 psi , 12V compressor ($60 new) and a 120VAC ,150 psi pancake compressor(( $70 new). I would never use the chassis air system, wonder how much a replacement engine-driven compressor costs? It does sound impressive, a 350HP(and up) driven compressor that must be bled down to restart the compressor just to top off a tire.

I received a quote from GS this morning for MH insurance. National General @ $692/yr which has more inclusive coverage than Nationwide, which did not cover awnings.

I have on occasion flagged down a local policeman and asked this question.

Were this my MH, I would first contact whoever installed that and request it be corrected at their expense. If they decline my next move would be to inform them I intended to file a claim in small claims court, and do so. The only thing there is to lose is the filing fee.

Today I received my Saferide Motor Club registration. It the first paragraph below the block titled ""Benefit Plan Information and Term" , it has a sentence stating "Benefits are available for the vehicle listed". Winch-out services max is $500 per use; trip interruption max is $300 per day/5 days max. To me that means the FMCA roadside rescue covers only my MH, as it is the only one listed; further in bold the same paragraph states _ , "additional vehicles are eligible for Roadside Assistance only". April 2, UPDATE: I just got off the phone with the Saferide rep, she said all vehicles and family member drivers are covered. The FMCA blog also reads like additional drivers and vehicle may cost extra. The Saferide website states "coverage for all owned vehicles is included with motor club benefits". (Sukki1942 take note)

Yes, mine is also, 1/2" plywood, which bowed in the center, thus the 2, 1" angle iron supports bolted to the plywood underside. I tightened the bolts enough ot draw the heads flush with the plywood.

OK, enough! Friday it hit 73°; tonight it is snowing.

huffypuff I used carriage bolts to secure angle iron to the underside of my bed platform, just be sure to put the nuts on the bottom side.

TimWright, return to that shop and ask to read and receive a copy of the SDS=Safety Data Sheet. It will tell everything about that coolant. By federal law they must maintain an SDS for every chemical on their premises; if they say they do not have one, tell them you'll be calling OSHA to register a complaint.

A current draw substantial enough to drain a new battery overnight will not be from radios, step control, LP detector, etc.; otherwise everyone's MH start battery would be dead every morning when dry camping. IMO the simplest and logical way to locate the current draw is to begin removing fuses one-by-one until a temporary inline ammeter(inductive 12VDC ammeters are now available) on the positive cable registers when current draw is drastically reduced. Matter-of-fact, those inductive ammeters were used in the 1950's when I worked in my uncle's garage

Carl (Nationwide policy, independent agency) gave no reason for the increase, the roadside assistance entry simply said "included" without a line for premium. I now know why the increase. I'll be talking to Progressive Monday regardless, if their quote is substantially less they got my business. I owe no allegiance to any insurance company. rsbilledwards; I just subscribed to FMCA roadside rescue, $69 beats the heck out of $149/yr. I'm a lifetime GS member, but like I said_ no allegiance. FMCA/Saferide phone agent told me last Thursday they cover utility trailers, cargo trailers, DO NOT cover boat trailers. I will verify that when I receive my policy packet. I have the month of April over-lap to compare, as my GS roadside assistance runs to April 30.

I just signed up for Roadside Rescue, it is a good buy. An hour later I got my renewal notice from Nationwide insurance, it stated roadside assistance is included at no charge. Then I noticed the premium raised $250 for one year_.🤐

I too was working in the yard all day, picking up limbs and hauling them to the brush pile I keep for rabbits(IN has cotton-tails, good eating) to hide and nest. Had a full truck bed from the 70 MPH winds 3 weeks ago. It was 73 in S. Indiana today and I was dressed for 53.That is the first sweat drenched clothes for 2019.

Been down that road. We bought a 40', 15,500# GVWR 5er. We had a 1996 3/4T Dodge CTD already. The drive from the RV dealership was agonizing for me, mild grades really slowed the truck down, handling was poor. The very next week I bought an 02 Chevy dually Duramax. Towing that 5er was easy and comfortable, even though the duallly was right at its maximum GCWR, and GVW capacity. Yes, medium-duty trucks(shoot the Ram 1T dually diesel runs about $70,000) are very expensive, thus the move by many to buying a used HDT and modifying it to tow a recreational 5er.

Yes, very tight for large RV's,(all RV parks near the beach are, due to land values) thus the recommendation to view it on Google maps. There is barely room to extend slides and awnings, the rates are too steep for me. http://redcoconut.com/index.php Their website picture give one an idea of how close.