rayin

This Bendix air brake handbook will explain in detail how the air dryer works, why it is required, and how to maintain an air dryer. Yours may not be Bendix brand, however they all work the same and are maintained the same; with the exception of replacing the desiccant dryer/filter. Since RV'ers do not drive the miles daily to require replacing the dryer/filter annually, replacing it every 3-5 years on a RV is adequate. This does not eliminate the requirement to manually drain the compressed air storage tanks prior to each drive. If moisture is allowed to accumulate and work its way into the braking system it gets expensive quickly, not to mention the possibility of losing braking ability. You might want to check out the FMCA diesel club, which contains a lot of valuable information particular to diesel pusher motorhomes. BTW,. on a Spartan chassis the air dryer unit is on the starboard side of the MH nearly opposite of where the Freightliner unit is located. update: I forgot to mention the most important part of maintaining air brakes, the daily air brake check.

Have you reported your experience with that company to the BBB and local chamber of commerce?

I've stayed at CG's were the pedestal breaker was at a remote location, so I turn off my main breaker in the RV first to eliminate any loads then plug into the 50A receptacle.

Diesel engines work by heat, in fact they were originally called a heat engine. Anyway, look up the ignition flashpoint of #2 diesel fuel. A diesel engine combustion stroke must produce at least that temperature by compressing air until that happens. The Cummins grid heater heats the intake air just prior to entering the combustion chamber, in warm/hot weather it may only cycle once to warm incoming air enough to promote instant ignition when fuel is injected into the combustion chamber at the top of the piston stroke. When working properly the grid heater will cycle at least once with each cold start below 60°F. You can check to see if the grid heater is coming on prior to startup by removing the battery cable from the solenoid, taping the end and tying it out of the way temporarily. The Cummins B6.7 grid heater draws approx. 205A when cycling.

Bill all I had to do was stay home. I was still working then and going to work regardless of temperature was the norm. I worked 7 miles from our house so the 5.9 barely got warmed up and I was there. The Cummins ISB 5.9 in Dodge pickups was great, but Dodge derated the engine to 180HP to keep from destroying the Dodge automatic transmission, so it was a dog towing over a 35' 5er.

I agree with previous replies. My old Dodge CTD 5,9 did that every time, but it always started in below 0°F weather..

To aid in your search check the classified ad section of the leading RVing forums.

I completely agree with Don. First, it is not an extended warranty, it is a service contract with terms and conditions that must be met before a claim is honored. That dealer wants him to finance an additional $20K; most folks don't know dealers get a kickback from finance companies. Shoot, I paid $6K to get a Good Sam 3yr extended service contract on our then 13 yr old MH. The engine and transmission both come with a 5yr/100,000 mile warranty. Some appliances come with a 2yr warranty now. What a ripoff that dealer has going.

Will do Don, haven't heard from him/her yet. I sent the PM hoping it was simply a case of forgetting how to return to their post.

Yep, activate the emergency kill switch, many DP's come with one in the engine compartment. Also Iphone air-tabs are small, cheap and easy to conceal if one wants to go that route.

I had the exhaust manifold replaced on my Cummins ISC and the bill was #3,000. During this work the turbocharger must be removed anyway, which cuts down the labor bill, so i would agree that is rather high. Locate a nearby HDT repair shop that will work on a MH engine instead of a Cummins dealer, local shops seem to be more reasonable.

I sent a PM just now and requested they return and update the situation. Most often the problem is inadequate 12 power.

You describe a great rig! If it were me, my only added concern is the engine size, I would not want a 40' MH with a Cummins B 6.7 engine, not enough torque or HP if planning travels that include mountain driving. I would want at least a Cummins ISL 400 HP. Yes a Cummins ISB 6.7 will reliably get you there with slightly better fuel mileage, but it will be slow climbing grades. I have a Cummins ISC 350 HP engine and on steep climbs it struggles to maintain 45 MPH sometimes when towing our Silverado pickup..

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Forget everything I said then. Mr rig is entirely different. Good luck with your project!