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rayin

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About rayin

  • Birthday 12/25/1942

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Midwest
  • Interests
    RVing, shooting sports, hunting,
  • I travel
    Part-time

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  1. I''m told the body work is finished. Now Progressive is contemplating whether or not they will pay the added $4,400 to replace the Xantrex inverter that was broken by the impact. Meanwhile, a different RV shop has the new replacement main awning laying around awaiting my MH's arrival, I was supposed to have it there Jan 30 for installation Jan 31. The service manager is nervous the new awning will be damaged before I can get my MH to them. The damage was April 5, 2022, so we've been without our MH for nearly 2 years now. I just may drive over(60mi) to the body shop Friday to see what's actually happened.
  2. The Kei 650CC auto is small, cheap and comes with a manual or auto transmission. I would think the manual transmission would be flat-towable, so he must have an automatic tranny. Rather than try to tow it on a dolly backwards, I'd be looking at trailering the 1,000lb. Kei in a single axle cargo trailer and have room to carry a grill and spare LP cylinder too.l
  3. Not likely; I doubt any club will offer a discount to join a competing club.
  4. There are several flat-towing guides on the internet, FMCA has one. However, the final authority is the specific vehicles owners manual, under recreational towing. I cannot look it up because the Honda lookup tool requires the trim model: https://mygarage.honda.com/s/find-acura
  5. That is simly untrue, there are many RV qualified technicians working on Coleman Mach/RVP basement units.This is perhaps the best shop for repairing ColemanMach basement units: https://shelburnerv.com/ they even have a utube video of them repairing one. First determine the model number of your unit. There is sticker on the left-end of the metal enclosure, you'll likely have to use a mirror to view it, as the space is very limited. Some units were air conditioner only, most are heat pumps.When they will not switch from cooling to heating or visa-versa, usually the thermostat is the problem. The thermostat testing procedure is in the unit service manual. This is the service manual for the most common model, 6535. When you unbolt the RR cover door and swing it up, fasten it to the rear ladder with a bungee cord. I'll stop here, I'm overloading you with information. The model# is the most important information needed right now.
  6. I agree with Ross, when Brett was forced out it killed the discussion forums, then when Herman passed it nailed the demise. All of Brett's work is still documented on the diesel club forum, but accessing it is not easy. I think Don is now the moderator here. IMO one option to saving money is reduce personnel at HQ, as membership declines so should office staff. This will get you there, then you must sign in again. https://forum.dieselrvclub.org/index.php/topic,4960.msg7180.html#msg7180
  7. I agree, Roadmaster and Blue Ox says the two hitch points (towed and MH) must be within 4" of level, I suspect all other tow bar mfgrs. follow that rule. Exceeding that rule opens the door to a hard stop causing the Jeep to over-ride or under-ride the tow bar. Level is best. I've seen many lifted and oversize tired Jeeps being towed 4-down.
  8. DO NOT attempt to drive the MH with air springs deflated, it will ruin one or all of the driveshaft joints, Allison tailpiece bearing, and differential shaft bearing if driven any distance over 20MPH with other than turtle type starts from a dead stop. Suggest you contact Paul/ AZPETE on the Irv2 forum. He works for HWH and can answer your questions. His email is pfmaddox@att.net and his phone number is 602-549-3638. He is a Commercial Member and has posted that his phone is always on, and if not answered, leave a detailed message with your system model number. He has helped others on this forum and I am sure he can help you. P.S. He is on mountain time. This will help you determine your model # With your model# you can download the service and troubleshooting manual from the internet.
  9. Just for grins; disconnect the neg, cable instead, after 3 hrs observe results. Electrons flow from neg. to pos.
  10. A humming sound vs a ticking sound in first post; humm. I sometimes hear a sound like a small electric motor running (a hum) after turning off my engine; I suspect my sound is coming from the 12v vacuum pump motor for the heat/air switches under the dash still running, but haven't ever had the opportunity to fully investigate. The last thing that happens after turning off the ignition key is, the heater/air controls auto-switch door positions to defrost. I think this pdf has the explanation buried somewhere within: https://newpar.newmarcorp.com/instance1Env99NEWMAR/html/images/SS2013EVEQUILTRAIN.pdf
  11. The recreational towing section of the owners manual is straight-forward, sounds like a good towed. The neg. battery cable must be disconnected, and a HD battery disconnect from Amazon would make that easy-peazy.
  12. with no more information, I 2nd Five's reply. Details of when, where, engine running?, A/C running, etc. would really help with answering.
  13. Something that can affect several things, including air pressure is the air dryer; when last was the filter replaced and the unit serviced? For commercial trucks in use every day the air dryer desiccant filter must be replaced annually. For recreational MH's that is stretched out to 3-4 years depending of amount of use. If you see moisture drain out of the air tanks, the dryer is long-past time for replacement, because if moisture gets into the brake chambers/cans it gets expensive quickly, because the entire compressed air system must be cleaned out. If you have a Spartan chassis you have 3 air tanks instead of two, of which one is a multi-chamber.
  14. Sounds like the rear dump valve is not closing correctly. I had that happen while picking up our MH from Camping World after having the oil N filter changed. The tech came out to the parking lot, diagnosed the problem, drove the MH back into a bay, replaced the valve, and its been fine since. After years of chasing air leaks, those in valves might be easily eliminated, or i've had success with them so far. With the coach up on blocks, empty the compressed air system via the manual moisture drains on the air tanks. The crawl under, remove the inlet air line to the valve and add a few drops of air tool oil into that inlet line. Then rebuild air pressure and operate the valve several time to distribute the air tool oil. Normally the dump valves require a 12V signal to open/close, they do not close automatically after dumping, nor open until receiving a 12V signal to the solenoid. Do not use motor oil! It contains additives that might deteriorate the O-rings that are sticking. BTW, your facebook link shows "not available right now".
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