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  1. One must figure in the cost of buying and installing the proper charging equipment for Lithium batteries + actual battery prices, unless you buy a new MH with Lithium battery banks installed-then this is moot.
  2. looks that way. https://www.shockwarehouse.com/index.cfm?mode=results&selected_model=2051246&selected_year=2008
  3. If your steering wheel is off-center when driving straight, the likely cause is the rear axle is out of alignment. I had a total alignment performed on our MH, the tech found the rear axle out by 3/4". After the total alignment was performed the steering wheel was exactly straight/level when driving on a straight road. P.S. a local HDT repair shop does my chassis work and alignment.
  4. If overfilled, excess hub oil should be expelled out the small vent hole in the red rubber plug, however, if the hole is plugged or too small excess hub oil can be pushed past the inner seal onto the brakes. FWIW, hub oil is not the same formula as differential oil.
  5. I asked my SIL, who is general manager of truck fleet maintenance for a nationwide carrier. He said the fill hole is of course maximum fill, 1" below is minimum level. Rule of thumb is, if you can touch the oil with your index finger while it's bent at the first joint into the fill hole, the oil level is OK.I suppose he knows what he says, he's held that position for 16 years so far. I'm not going to add oil; replace it instead. BTW, the last leg of our trip the temperature sent by that tire sensor read the same as the other 3 rears, confirmed by heat gun. That eliminates anything mechanical as the cause of the previous higher temperature readings. I will not know anything further until I get the MH up on my ramps, or over my friends pit, this week to safely get underneath and do a thorough inspection.
  6. Keeping in mind this is a standard household ice maker; this may be useful: http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/Whirlpool-icemaker-repair.html
  7. Thanks a lot, you just lengthened my "to-do" list when we get home tomorrow. Really, thank you. I check every connection screw for tightness annually, and have replaced the old Marinco shore power receptacle, but never thought about checking the wiring to the ATS.
  8. While driving that sensor read ~15° higher than the other rears today. I confirmed it with a heat gun when I stopped for a rest break. I'll be home tomorrow, just about 135 mi drive. I will call Carmichael's Truck repair tomorrow as soon as they open at 8AM and make an appt. to have him check everything possible that may be the cause. Thanks for the support and helpful information guys!
  9. I don't know where you read that about 1A charging but it is incorrect. The B.I.R.D. is an intelligent switch, not a charger. Mine will re-direct recharging my house batteries at the maximum charge rate(user set via Xantrex inverter/charger) of 50A in bulk mode if the need is present. I replaced it in 2013 because the house battery bank was not recharging as designed. FWIW, that installation diagram is incomplete, at least for my MH.
  10. Apparently the sensor battery change had some effect, after the new battery was installed the ambient temperature reads the same(was 20° higher) as the rest of the tires. Air brake test met the standards. differential oil level is OK @ 1" below fill hole. The air plumbing appears OK by looking at it from the opposite side with my bright flashlight, taking a test run tomorrow, if the temperature of that left inner dual begins to rise above the right inner dual again I will be within 20 miles of a truck stop where they have a service shop.° I would not crawl underneath without blocking or two 12T jack stands anyway, life' too short as it is without thumbing my nose at fate.
  11. It's either mission accomplished or they left; either way no more ants seen since the bait blocks and spray.
  12. Attention Winnebago owners! You will find your specific electrical and plumbing schematics, and parts catalog links here. The only caveat is if someone has previously modified anything. Not all motorhomes incorporate a BIRD relay into the charging system.
  13. OK, thanks guys. I'll call FMCA ERS tomorrow and talk to their tech services. So far my action plan is; perform another air brake test, replace that sensor battery-JIC, crawl under enough to put eyes on the brake canister and measure travel distance compared to starboard side, take a short test drive, call FMCA ERS tech service with that information and ask questions. This( thank you Rich) is from the FMCA ERS plan:"Mobile Mechanic Dispatch Service. In the event of a mechanical breakdown, SafeRide RV Motor Club will assist in arranging the dispatch of a mobile mechanic to the customer’s location, if the customer is more than 50 miles from the nearest repair facility. The customer is responsible for all charges related to on-site repairs, including travel fees, parts and labor." I'm not surprised or upset with this, at 19 yrs old things happen for many reasons. FWIW here are a couple links to air brake systems I'm studying. It has helped me better grasp what may have happened. flxibleowners.org/article-the-brake-system/ https://www.suspensionspecialists.com/techinfo/Bepco_Air_Brake_Trbl_Chart.pdf
  14. I was hoping someone knows all about FMCA ERS coverage. I'll call them tomorrow since it is not an emergency .
  15. I didn't think of using it Herman, within 15 minutes temperature had dropped to the same as the other rears. I considered a failing battery but the air pressure was reading correctly, still should change it JIC. Didn't think of doing another air brake test either, I'm used to doing one each travel morning. Tomorrow I'll take a look underneath to see if the canister is leaking air or the air line; the air gauges showed steady pressure. Got any views on if the ERS will help?
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