rayin

The normal cause of aluminum corrosion is water intrusion, which results in galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact and get wet. https://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

FWIW, Fantastic Fan(8005210298) has a lifetime warranty on their vent covers. They sent me one under warranty, FedeX shipping was $16 though.

Go HERE, then click on his links-W/pictures showing exactly how he removed, repaired, replaced his Coleman-Mach basement air conditioner. He is the ultimate authority IMO for these basement units. He's helped many owners with their units, and has a long list of where and how to obtain replacement and upgraded parts. The only thing different, as I said, is this unit has 2 120VAC compressors inside, where standard household units have 1 large 240VAC compressor. I have several links to parts from Bill's website,and even new OEM units are available, if you need my links. Duner's information should be all you need though. FWIW, I have a basement unit, it keeps our MH(see sig) very comfortable in winter and summer, regardless of our location. (hope that doesn't jink me)

We've stayed at several CG's that are hard-wired without a breaker/disconnect, many CG's in the Maritimes were. When I see one I go inside the MH and throw the main breaker before plugging into those receptacles. I don't know it really helps, but it can't do any harm.

The basement air conditioner is also a heat pump! If you wish, PM me and I'll send you links to removing, repairing, and re-installing your Coleman unit. It is basically built like a household unit with 2 compressors inside instead of 1, to make it a 24,000btu unit. Any Air conditioner repairman can service it once you have the links to the instructions for removal and re-installation. Some are saying the Coleman unit is no longer available -not true.

About 13 years ago we were driving SD 87 in our 1T dually(5er was parked at Custer), SD 87 has signage at each end(between SD89 and US385) warning of the Hood tunnel low clearance (10'). We were Northbound and got stopped in a backup about 1/4 mile from the tunnel. When we finally reached the tunnel we saw the reason for the backup. Now SD 87 is a narrow 2-lane highway, on the North side of the tunnel sat 2 40' DP's with towed. No place to turn around a1T dually let alone a MH, nearest driveway was about 3 miles behind them. Now how could anyone not see a 4'X8' plywood bright yellow sign at each end of that stretch of highway warning of low clearance? I kinda wished we had time to park somewhere and watch the proceedings, but SD state police were busy blocking both ends at the signs by the time we reached 385.

Carl, I have never gotten that impression. I don't care about anyone's politics, just exchanging information about RVing.

TruckerPath is a phone app that will routes suitable for HDT's, it has many options for what to display, like rest areas, truck stops, WalMarts, weigh stations, alternate routes, and many more .

FWIW, over 80% of all 12v issues are the result of a poor or missing ground. Given the complexity of RV 12V systems, that is often quite difficult to correct.

Shop around, call wholesalewarranties.com and others, and request a quote. This is and independent agent who has access to multiple ESC providers. For accuracy purposes, these are NOT extended warranties. They are extended service contracts, with requirements and conditions that must be met to file a successful claim.

IMO, The best explanation of how TT works is here: http://ddwt.us/index.htm

That price comparison recommendation used to be stated on the FMCA Michelin tire program page, it's no longer there that I can find.

Thank you very much! my download speed,as measured by my provider, is 14kb/second, and that''s not dial up, it's DSL.🤢

RV salvage and surplus yards may be an option.Colaws advertises they are the largest in the U.S.A. Then again; this Kelsey-Hayes 310 model says it fits GM models.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kelsey-Hayes-310-ABS-Module-96-2002-Chevy-Blazer-S10-GMC-Sonoma-Jimmy/202540022600?hash=item2f28537b48:g:WnkAAOSwGqxbG~G2:rk:1:pf:0&vxp=mtr Some sources say the K-H 310 w/same casting# is the same regardless of the vehicle it came from, and it is not re-build-able. Another possible source: https://truckpartsinventory.com/abs-control-modules-kelsey-hayes-parts

The condensate from 90+ efficient household furnaces is corrosive, seen it first-hand from an American Standard Freedom 90 unit. I had a brass-end garden hose draining away condensate. I began to notice water on the basement floor, investigated and discovered the condensate had eaten completely through the brass where it transitioned from hose crimp to threaded end; replaced it with plastic hose-end. The majority of older RV furnaces are about 65-70% efficient. Since they are side-vented, and have an exhaust pipe about 12" long, there is little time for condensate to drop out of exhaust gas when the combustion-air fan is running properly.

Wasn't me ☝️

In my humble opinion the torque converter is slipping. I suggest NOT using overdrive until it is repaired ASAP, as every time it slips, tiny metal particles can be introduced into the trans oil, which are then pumped throughout the transmission valve body if/when the tranny filter does not capture every bit of metal.

Start with the lowest cost items to replace, I would replace the ignition switch before diving into expensive diagnostic tests. I know I need to replace mine(I can remove the key in any position), once a year the gauges will swing from operational to pegged to the max., and the engine stops for perhaps 1 second the resumes running. I pull over, turn of the key and wait a minute, restart the engine and everything is normal again for many months.

A missing or poor ground accounts for over 80% of all 12V problems. To check, temporarily run a 14G wire directly from the chassis neg battery post to the washer frame/mount. Have you double-checked to insure 12V is actually getting to the motor? That may be accomplished with a probe-equipped 12V tester when the washer switch is activated.

I was thinking about hot/burned galvanizing (zinc coating); it produces toxic fumes when heated beyond a certain degree F. Nope never heard of anyone using a stock tank for a firepit before.

I've seen several people using these, most are tubs from top-loading washing machines; many are made from SST, the enameled ones do not work well for fire pits.

Our AWD 2014 MKX sedan with twin-turbo V6 towed easily. The 2WD was not approved for flat-towing. DW decided it had too much power, so "we" traded it for a Jeep GC limited.

I arrived home from a short TDY trip to Ft, Dix NJ one year (driving our customized 1T Chevy van). Next day I was cleaning the van and noticed something in a mud flap, an 8" screwdriver! I had unknowingly ran over it somewhere. The mud flap and a slight divot in the RR tire was the only damage; but I did have another good screwdriver.😉

Your explanation matches what the narrator in the video explains. Watch and listen to it again. The recommendation to briefly press the accelerator further states little speed increase will be noticed, which is about the same as your CC maintaining speed for those few seconds it took you to turn it off. BTW, I always drive with both hands on the wheel, whether it's our MH, pickup, DW's Jeep or my farm tractors JIC the unexpected happens.

That's why I said "I suspect". Five had his CC on, I was speculating it did the same thing as the video saying briefly accelerate. No, never had a flat or tire failure on a MH. Had a steer tire blow on the 10T dump truck I was driving,(manual steering) hauling block Brazil coal, which offers a clue as to how long ago it was. No seat belts back then either, it took everything I had to hold the wheel straight.