akadeadeye
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Posts posted by akadeadeye
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We never stop at Loves. Prices are almost always the highest. I use a credit card that gives a 5% discount on all fuel purchases. With $2.85 diesel price, that's a savings of $0.1425 per gallon. No discount I have seen can match that so I don't pay cash anymore, nor do I use my pilot/FlyingJ card.
Don
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Check with LeMeillieur's in Kerrville. Ask for David LeMeillieur.
Don
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Thanks to all. I appreciate the feedback.
Don
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From Natchez to Nashville. If you have driven this parkway, we would appreciate comments, suggestions. Is it big rig friendly?
Don
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11 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said:Hear you go. Texas Custom Coach, 10498 South State Highway 16, Pipe Creek, TX 78063
texascustomcoach.com, (830) 510-4224
Carl will probably be along to endorse them two.
Bill
I second this motion. They rebuild classy coaches and have quite a following.
Don
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8 hours ago, manholt said:Don.
We aim to please! To ere is human.
Kay. You'll not get an argument from me about that. Agree 100%! OP did ask about "What is an omission engine"? He's got a 2009, so DEF does not apply! Only Particulate filter during re-generation. My #! &2 exhaust's goes to way over 1.300 degrees for 12 to 15 minutes, about every 3,000 miles! Thankfully I can continue driving, while some are set for you to find a place to park the coach, while degen is going on! If that is what OP does, then yes, it can get brittle and break down over time.
Mr. Manholt. I really don't know what you are talking about. First, there is nothing in my OP that mentioned "omission engine". Where did that come from? And, what does that mean? I really believe that you and kaypsmith should be removed from posting privileges here because of your flipant and condescending responses to someone who just asked an honest question to a problem. I obviously am an inferior RVer to both of you and I bow to your superior intelligence, but you don't have to be so condescending about it. No wonder other forums out there are more frequented than this one. Geeeeeezzzzzz!
Don, your humble RV subservient
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15 hours ago, kaypsmith said:Urea 32% on the feet helps cure dry and cracked feet, maybe it will work equally well on the dry and cracked hoses.
Makes about as much sense as using engine braking causing extra pressure on the engine causing the hoses to blow. 
I know that using urea does what it is supposed to for the feet, but I don't believe the engine braking line yet. Just saying.
Kay, It was not my supposition about engine braking causing my hose problem, if you read my OP right. It was someone else. I was just asking for comments from some people with expertise. Obviously, from your sarcastic comments, you are not among those.
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13 hours ago, jleamont said:
Let's see. We've gone from a coolant hose problem to a cream for your feet. Wow. My thanks to all who were on point.
Don
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On 2/19/2018 at 7:56 AM, jleamont said: glad i'm not the only one that has experienced this! I've had conversations in CG's that make you wonder who ties their shoes in the morning.
The engine brake doesn't put anymore of a stress on the engine than the accelerator does. Keep in mind on an emissions engine, they produce more heat surrounding the engine than a older engine, this will cause hoses to fail sooner.
What do you mean by an "emissions engine"?
Don
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On a recent trip to the east coast, we were traveling south on I26 from Asheville toward Spartanburg, down the mountains and I was using the engine brake frequently on those 7 and 8* long slopes. All of a sudden the engine temp skyrocketed and we could smell the sweet smell of coolant. I pulled over immediately. We were eventually towed into Spartanburg. A water hose had burst near the engine having become hard and somewhat brittle, we later learned. We were at a Cummins facility.
Later on our trip I was recounting this experience with a fellow RVer. He said I was using my engine brake too much and putting too much pressure on the engine and he guessed this could have been the cause of the hose bursting. I am skeptical. Any thoughts??
Don
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16 hours ago, manholt said:Click on Destination/Attractions and scroll down to Banff- Vancouver.
I guess the reason I didn't find it the first time is because the subject of the post was Glacier NP to Vancouver, instead of Banff. Thanks for the notation. I will add Tom's comments to my collection.
Don
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3 hours ago, manholt said:On this same post under December 30, you'll find Banff to Vancouver, Canada. Tom Butler responded with his normal knowledge and aplomb! You can also get him by Personal Mail....our local Guru on most any trip!
Manholt
I cannot find the post you are referring me to. Perhaps you can be more specific.
Don
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I figure this trip will take at least 2 1/2 to 3 months since there are a lot of places to see along the way. Return route is unplanned as of now but may include Pacific Highway through Oregon and California, could shorten it through Idaho, Utah, etc.
Any suggestions on "must sees", "avoid at all costs", etc. are appreciated. Of course, we plan to see Calgary, Lake Louise, and ?? in Alberta. Suggested routes west from there are also appreciated if you have experience with them. We plan on leaving late May and figure it could take a month to get there, with other stops.
Don
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On 3/29/2017 at 8:02 AM, wolfe10 said:I very rarely weigh in on FMCA governance issues, but I will on this one post:
It is a matter of economics. If we want the benefits we currently enjoy through FMCA, including FMCAssist, we MUST balance our older demographics with younger members.
Ask any actuarial!
It is or at least should be a business decision, not an emotional one.
Also, most RV'ers don't start in "qualifying motorhomes". They start in trailers, 5th wheels and toy haulers. But many will "graduate" to motorhomes-- that progression is going on stronger today than ever. Why wait until they "graduate" to include them in our family.
Wake up FMCA members and read Brett's post above. This organization needs to be more inclusive to sustain its membership and continue as a family oriented organization. The vast majority of RVers with families cannot afford a Motorhome unless it is an older model, and even then it may be out of reach due to storage, maintenance, etc. I don't know about you but on trips we take, the "towable" families are every bit as friendly as anyone else, and more so than certain "class A" people. I really don't understand the argument. Expand the membership, Directors. The "club" ain't sustainable any longer.
Don
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Bob and Wendy,
I have to disagree with the ones who said it isn't worth it. It depends. I bought one 8 months after we picked ours up new. It was a 7 year policy. We have more than paid for the lump sum premium we paid up front. Like double. I am glad we had it. After factory warranties are up repairs can get very expensive. Just our experience. We have Xtra-Ride. They had paid out well. Our RV repair shop says Good Sam is the best for them to deal with, fwiw.
Don
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46 minutes ago, WILDEBILL308 said:I was checking my tire pressure at a campsite this summer and this "gentleman" was walking his dog by and asked "what are you doing?" I said checking my air pressure. He said "I have the dealer do that in the spring when the coach is in for maintenance." The moral is some obsess over pressure changes down to the tenth of a pound and some not so much.
Bill
That "Gentleman" is asking for a problem. Things happen. I check mine before every trip. Pretty boring at times. 90, 90, 100,100, etc. except one morning before a trip and it was 90, 35, 100, 100. A valve stem had come loose from the rim. Glad I checked. If I had followed the "Gentleman's" routine, I would likely have had a blow out along the way.
Don
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Herman and Brett. Thanks. I will contact him if need be. Much appreciated.
Don
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Rich. I will ask them. Right now we are waiting on delivery of the TCM, so won't know for certain if that is the culprit until next week. They found one that needs programming from Allison and we should have it next week instead of the 40 day backlog with Spartan.
Don
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Thanks for all of the suggestions. Got back from our Colorado trip and took it to the shop. The tech and Spartan have determined it is a defective TCM (Transmission Control Module). Apparently the TCM has to give its OK before the engine will start.
Bad news is this part is back-ordered for 40 days. At least, so far, I can start it by first turning the key to the right first position, wait for the engine light to go out, then back to vertical, then all the way to the right without pausing, and it starts. Hope that lasts for 40 more days.
Don
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3 minutes ago, akadeadeye said:Yes, getting dash lights and buzzers. Used the battery boost once. It started. Did not use it another time. No start. Chassis and Coach batteries are about 9 months old.
Don
Correction. The second time I did not use battery boost it did eventually start after trying three times.
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55 minutes ago, WILDEBILL308 said:Are you geting the dash lights and warning buzzers? Have you tried to use the switch to tie the batteries together when you try to start? How old are your start battery's?
Bill
Yes, getting dash lights and buzzers. Used the battery boost once. It started. Did not use it another time. No start. Chassis and Coach batteries are about 9 months old.
Don
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We are traveling in Colorado. I turn switch to start engine. Nothing. At all. I turn again. Nothing.
I return the switch to vertical and turn again. It starts. I am concerned that some relay or solenoid is about to die. All battery connections are clean and tight.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Don
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Service at any RV shop is only as good as the techs who are there. And, RV techs (who know their stuff) are in short supply. Thus, long waiting periods in many cases. That said, I have not had any personal experience with Camping World other than the retail store but I have two motorhome owner friends who have. Neither of them has had anything good to say about the RV repair service at Camping World, at least at the one in New Braunfels, Texas. The one in Indy may be fine. The hourly rates in my neck of the woods range from $95 to $105 for coach work and $125 for chassis work.
I take my MH to an independent RV service center where I know the techs are very experienced. I have also found that learning to do some simple repairs and routine maintenance myself is worthwhile, not just in dollars, but in time, since good RV repair centers are usually very busy, and I don't like leaving our RV there for a week or more.
Have fun.
Don
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18 hours ago, wolfe10 said:Primary advantage of a tow dolly is for those who change vehicles often and/or have a vehicle that can not be towed 4 wheels down.
Agree. We use a tow dolly for two different vehicles, one of which cannot be fitted with a base plate for 4-down towing. Both of them are front wheel drive. Using a tow dolly has some drawbacks but not as many as we were told in the beginning. I have never had a problem with finding a place to put it in an RV park when we had to unhitch. Usually, right beside or on one end or the other from our motorhome there is often room. And hooking up and loading the car takes me about 8-10 minutes. The first time took 40 minutes because I couldn't figure out the dang straps. Now it's a snap. I do rotate the toad's tires front to back after a couple of long trips to be sure the tread wear stays relatively even all around.
Don
Comfort Drive on Newmar motorcoach
in Chassis
Posted · Report reply
Comfort Drive "Learns" the pitch and crown of the road so you don't have to constantly "tow in" your steering wheel, AND aids tremendously in crosswinds (when constant) and when 18 wheelers pass. It also automatically returns the steering back to "straight ahead" when you stop. It was developed by an engineer at TRW and is licensed only to Newmar and Newell. It is a tremendous "comfort" on long road days. It is also adjustable with a knob that goes from 1 to 5 (on mine) where 1 is the loosest feel and 5 is the firmest feel. I use 3 1/2.
Don