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    Pipe Creek TX
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    Music, Radio, Tropics
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  1. Just found this issue at a brand new park today and have a question about this...... Here are my readings off the 50 amp plug: We're going to name the plug holes like a compass.... North, South, East and West. Readings: West to South = 240V, West to East = 120V, West to South = 120 V. (I know I should have read, in order, 120V, 240V, 120V) My guess is the bottom (south) leg which is "neutral"????? is hot with 120V, which gives my line 1 hot, and "neutral" the 240V reading.... the hot neutral with line 2 giving me 120V is telling me that they connected ground to what should be line 2 hot..... correct? So, if I had been dumb enough to plug in, I'd have had 120V going through the skin of my coach? Or would that only be if the 120 was connected to the top (north) hole of the 50 amp plug?
  2. It's some sort of rivet on both ends. Good idea on trying to unscrew...
  3. nope... no snap on clip... that would be too easy.... mine is "eyelet".
  4. I'll make a few calls today.... another problem I see... these things are not installed using bolts/nuts or screws.... Looks like I may have to drill out the mounts to get the old ones off. Any tricks I may be missing on that?
  5. I have a 2014 Itasca (Winnebago) Ellipse (Tour) and need to replace the gas struts for the rear awning..... I'll be darned if I can figure out which one to order..... I have all the info, but can't find it online... It's Lift-o-Mat Stabilus 393019 0380n 235/13 c 9 If I know how much weight it's supposed to support, or how to measure the length (is it just the black part or length fully extended). Any help would be appreciated.
  6. Just putting this out there.... I'm attending the10 week RVSA / Recreational Vehicle Service Academy right now in Palmetto Florida. It's a great course so far. If you have ever considered attending such a course, feel free to contact me for questions.
  7. If you are a Veteran and Post 9/11 Gi Bill authorized I've got great news for you! There is a 10 week RV Tech school that is VA approved in Palmetto FL (just south of Tampa). I am attending right now. Here is a link to the school: https://www.rvsa.net/ It's very intensive and I'm confident it's going to help me out quite a bit. Most of the students intend to start their own Mobile RV service back "home". I'll play it by ear.... primary reason in attending is for personal knowledge.... but, already been offered a job at a repair facility if I desire to do that. If you have questions I'm ready to answer them.
  8. Yes... Mike gave me the number of someone to call in San Antonio. Not yet.... but may be next step... but see update below. Yep... talked to Mike and he gave me a number to call. UPDATE: Started coach today just to see if I could force the code to reset..... guess what..... check engine is off.... code reader shows no active codes! ok... with that said.... we are on the roads a lot so..... I'm going to take it in to have a professional look at it..... Here is something I just remembered yesterday... and this MIGHT be the culprit? You tell me if it is possible.... (I guess anything is possible). You know those fuel additives.....the ones with the foil on the top..... well, I was using one with the foil that is about the size of a dime.... and, it fell into the fuel tank while I was putting the additive in about 4,000 miles ago / a couple of months.... hmmm.... could be causing the intermittent issue.... stops up something... then when coach sits, it floats back down? Just for more numbers.... yesterday I was getting, according to my Nexas Code Reader, 99-100 MPa fuel rail pressure.... today, with no check engine light showing, I'm getting 79-80 MPa. So, maybe the issue it was HIGH? I guess this is why I need to take it in to have it looked at.
  9. Well...… it happened again.... and, it won't clear. We lost power fairly drastically.... pulled over.... tried the same things as before.... but code would still not clear.... we decided to drive a little.... it SEEMED to be working fine, good power, but.... as I said.... check engine stayed on. We were able to make it home to Pipe Creek Texas (north west San Antonio). Now.... my question - any recommendations for mechanics / shops in the NW San Antonio Area? The nearest Cummins and Freightliner are both on the east side of San Antonio (about 50 miles away). If there is something closer I'd prefer that..... OR.... should I just suck it up and drive the 50 miles. And... if I do, would there be a preference between Cummins or Freightliner? (they are very near each other)
  10. Equipment: 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD / Onan 10,000 RV QD w/1,600 hours. Issue: Boondocking for extended period on generator.... generator simply shut down during long term operation. Tried to restart, generator turned over, ran for about 1 second. Code indicated 27 - PMA Failure (You can count the blinks on the generator or start button, or look at remote panel with LCD read-out) Made appointment with Cummins Tampa. Their original diagnosis was bad "brush block". They received part, and replaced brush block (and fuel filter at my request since they were already in there). Upon starting after those replaced generator was still shutting down for code 27. Guess what.... once they opened it up they saw a broken wire! Fixed wire, and generator ran fine..... BUT...… we aren't done yet..... When I picked up the coach I started generator and it ran fine..... I assumed we're good to go.... I didn't go back to panel to verify coach was receiving power..... got back to RV park.... for some reason, I decided to check that.... NOPE.... no power making it in to the coach..... dang it! Drive 45 minutes back to Cummins Tampa..... they take a look.... oh, a "loose wire". They tightened that up and I'm back on the road with gen-power. Hey.... it works, so I'm happy. Also, even though from what I can tell, the brush block didn't need to be replaced, I'm told they should be checked at 2,000 hours.... I was at 1,600... so..... hey, I've got new brushes! Moral to the end of the story.... don't drive off until you are sure it works in every way it should! See pictures for everything up to the loose wire since they wrote no ticket for that.....
  11. I can't find a model number on the faceplate. However, a google search shows it is probably an ME MR: https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/MagArchive/64-0031-Rev-A-Web-ME-MR.pdf
  12. Update: I turned the battery cut off back to "on" this morning. Everything seems normal now. See pictures below.... this is what it is reading this morning. "Batter +" is now down to 34A.
  13. I found the reading under "tech" menu on the panel. It was reading 19c but, of course, I'm plugged into shore power. At least I know where to check now.
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