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ERIC@BABIN.COM

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About ERIC@BABIN.COM

  • Birthday 06/10/1966

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  • Website URL
    www.RadioTropRock.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pipe Creek TX
  • Interests
    Music, Radio, Tropics
  • I travel
    Full-time

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  1. First symptom: ABS light came one. No loss of power. Pulled up to get gas, coach died. Started up fine. Got up to pump, lost power leaving pump. Drained fuel filter, ran fine for a couple hours / hundred miles. Parked for 1 week, started, ran fine, about 20 miles into drive stopped at a signal and coach died. Pulled out into traffic in turn, and it died, but ran fine after sitting for 30 seconds for about another 60 miles it died going down interstate going at about 65mph. While coasting to a stop it started back up on its own and took an exit. During the turn at the exit it stalled again…. Started back up and got to a parking lot. Every time at this point I’d tried to start it would start and die. This was at a Travel America stop….. I cleaned off battery terminals, waited 2 hours, and began the trip… heading to an RV park… about 10 miles down the road it stalled again…. Got it started again, did the rest of the 1 mile trip to the RV park and parked for 2 days. Started RV and ran about 18 miles to an RV / Truck repair no problems…. Replace all batteries (coach / and chassis). Battery connections may have been a problem according to RV repair….. leave there, 3-4 miles later it dies again. Now, sitting on side of road waiting for two truck.
  2. Some friends of mine have a 2004 Winnebago Vectra (40' Class A) that is in bad shape and they'd like to trade it in. Although it runs, it does have a bad engine oil leak which will require total engine replacement according to mechanics. The coach also needs roof repair, leveler repair, dash lights are out, and A/C is struggling.... yes, it's in bad shape. Is there someone / or some business that buys RVs for parts? Or would allow a trade in of this RV for a newer model? What do you do with an old dying RV? Is there any way to get at least a little value out of it? The RV is located in Texas near Austin, and is drivable.
  3. Just found this issue at a brand new park today and have a question about this...... Here are my readings off the 50 amp plug: We're going to name the plug holes like a compass.... North, South, East and West. Readings: West to South = 240V, West to East = 120V, West to South = 120 V. (I know I should have read, in order, 120V, 240V, 120V) My guess is the bottom (south) leg which is "neutral"????? is hot with 120V, which gives my line 1 hot, and "neutral" the 240V reading.... the hot neutral with line 2 giving me 120V is telling me that they connected ground to what should be line 2 hot..... correct? So, if I had been dumb enough to plug in, I'd have had 120V going through the skin of my coach? Or would that only be if the 120 was connected to the top (north) hole of the 50 amp plug?
  4. It's some sort of rivet on both ends. Good idea on trying to unscrew...
  5. nope... no snap on clip... that would be too easy.... mine is "eyelet".
  6. I'll make a few calls today.... another problem I see... these things are not installed using bolts/nuts or screws.... Looks like I may have to drill out the mounts to get the old ones off. Any tricks I may be missing on that?
  7. I have a 2014 Itasca (Winnebago) Ellipse (Tour) and need to replace the gas struts for the rear awning..... I'll be darned if I can figure out which one to order..... I have all the info, but can't find it online... It's Lift-o-Mat Stabilus 393019 0380n 235/13 c 9 If I know how much weight it's supposed to support, or how to measure the length (is it just the black part or length fully extended). Any help would be appreciated.
  8. Just putting this out there.... I'm attending the10 week RVSA / Recreational Vehicle Service Academy right now in Palmetto Florida. It's a great course so far. If you have ever considered attending such a course, feel free to contact me for questions.
  9. If you are a Veteran and Post 9/11 Gi Bill authorized I've got great news for you! There is a 10 week RV Tech school that is VA approved in Palmetto FL (just south of Tampa). I am attending right now. Here is a link to the school: https://www.rvsa.net/ It's very intensive and I'm confident it's going to help me out quite a bit. Most of the students intend to start their own Mobile RV service back "home". I'll play it by ear.... primary reason in attending is for personal knowledge.... but, already been offered a job at a repair facility if I desire to do that. If you have questions I'm ready to answer them.
  10. Yes... Mike gave me the number of someone to call in San Antonio. Not yet.... but may be next step... but see update below. Yep... talked to Mike and he gave me a number to call. UPDATE: Started coach today just to see if I could force the code to reset..... guess what..... check engine is off.... code reader shows no active codes! ok... with that said.... we are on the roads a lot so..... I'm going to take it in to have a professional look at it..... Here is something I just remembered yesterday... and this MIGHT be the culprit? You tell me if it is possible.... (I guess anything is possible). You know those fuel additives.....the ones with the foil on the top..... well, I was using one with the foil that is about the size of a dime.... and, it fell into the fuel tank while I was putting the additive in about 4,000 miles ago / a couple of months.... hmmm.... could be causing the intermittent issue.... stops up something... then when coach sits, it floats back down? Just for more numbers.... yesterday I was getting, according to my Nexas Code Reader, 99-100 MPa fuel rail pressure.... today, with no check engine light showing, I'm getting 79-80 MPa. So, maybe the issue it was HIGH? I guess this is why I need to take it in to have it looked at.
  11. Well...… it happened again.... and, it won't clear. We lost power fairly drastically.... pulled over.... tried the same things as before.... but code would still not clear.... we decided to drive a little.... it SEEMED to be working fine, good power, but.... as I said.... check engine stayed on. We were able to make it home to Pipe Creek Texas (north west San Antonio). Now.... my question - any recommendations for mechanics / shops in the NW San Antonio Area? The nearest Cummins and Freightliner are both on the east side of San Antonio (about 50 miles away). If there is something closer I'd prefer that..... OR.... should I just suck it up and drive the 50 miles. And... if I do, would there be a preference between Cummins or Freightliner? (they are very near each other)
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