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ERIC@BABIN.COM

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About ERIC@BABIN.COM

  • Birthday 06/10/1966

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  • Website URL
    www.RadioTropRock.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pipe Creek TX
  • Interests
    Music, Radio, Tropics
  • I travel
    Full-time

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  1. I can't find a model number on the faceplate. However, a google search shows it is probably an ME MR: https://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/MagArchive/64-0031-Rev-A-Web-ME-MR.pdf
  2. Update: I turned the battery cut off back to "on" this morning. Everything seems normal now. See pictures below.... this is what it is reading this morning. "Batter +" is now down to 34A.
  3. I found the reading under "tech" menu on the panel. It was reading 19c but, of course, I'm plugged into shore power. At least I know where to check now.
  4. It's a 2014 Itasca Ellilpse 42qd. I purchased the coach used in mid-2018. I assume the batteries are original / so about 6 years old? I have them checked each October. Last check I was told they are fine. Batter temp reads 19c. (plugged into shore power) I did turn the engine block heater on yesterday morning for about 3 hours. It was not on at the time, nor is it now.
  5. We tripped the park 50amp breaker which was strange since I didn't think we were pulling many amps.... only 1 a/c and a dryer.... so, I checked my amp draw.... it was almost 50 amps.... I turned everything off except LED lights, so it should have dropped to about 2 amps.... one on each line.... but Line 2 was reading 18-20 amps.... turned breakers off one at a time.... it was the inverter.... but, with the inverter breaker off the fridge was also off. Now remember.... we're plugged into shore power this whole time. I went to the inverter and switched the battery cut-off at the inverter to "off". RV Amp draw dropped to what it should be (2 amps total). And the fridge stayed on. What I noticed while the battery switch was still in the "on" position is that the Magnum Energy panel was reading "Battery +120" (something like that... it was certainly over 100!) Is that normal? (see picture below.... this is with the batter cut-off in the "off" position. I guess my question is this.... Have I just never noticed my inverter draws that much amperage? Or, do I have a problem?
  6. Good info, but certainly not what I wanted to hear! I'll keep an eye on it. However, I did find this: The Motor Control Module (MCM) monitors the rail pressure and when rail pressure deviation is greater than 200 bar for eight seconds, the MCM sets the code. This fault can occur due to the conditions listed below: External fuel leakage between the high pressure pump and fuel injectors Pressure limiting valve leakage (internal) Fuel filter integrity (loose caps, plugged filters) Fuel supply issues (fuel level, fuel aeration, leaking fuel lines, fuel restrictions) Intermittent loss of engine speed signal High pressure pump internal failure Fuel injector (amplifier or needle) leakage Fuel Contamination Rail pressure sensor Motor Control Module (MCM)
  7. 2014 Itasca (Winnebago) Ellipse (Tour) / Cummins 450hp Driving down the Florida Turnpike yesterday my check engine light came on. I found a safe place to pull over, and pulled out my Nexas Diagnostic Scanner. I had purchased this almost a year ago, and never had to use it.... it certainly came in handy! (here is the scanner on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4GH6UZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) I plugged it in, and ran a diagnostic and got SPN 157. A problem with fuel rail pressure.... I remember getting a similar code back before I had the reader and had to go through the painful process of figuring out how to find the code using the installed system on the dash.... and I remembered that code comes up when you have a loose gas cap. Prior to having the code reader I tightened the gas cap and had to wait what seemed like an hour for the code to clear.... using the Nexas I was able to tighten the gas cap, clear the code immediately, then run diagnostics again.... boom.... no check engine light.... issue fixed. (To clear the code I had to turn engine off, put ignition back in the accessory position without cranking engine on.... go back to the reader and "clear current codes" and then I got "success"). Just sharing a little info that having a reader can save you some time. Once you get the code then google is your friend.
  8. Most should know if you have problems with your stairs not going in, or not going out, it's frequently the fact the contacts are dirty. A little sandpaper on them and you are good to go. or.... a wire came loose.... take the contact assembly out a little and connect wire. Our stairs began going in and out while we were driving..... contacts were clean..... I took a close look from the side of the contacts and noticed one was shorter than the others..... I pulled the assembly out and upon close inspection, I noticed they are adjustable by pulling the wire off, and using the plastic nut to adjust the length / how far they stick out. See pictures. One note, be sure to remember which side is up (in my case the yellow wire) and not take off more than 1 wire at a time unless you mark them for proper location.
  9. 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42qd (Winnebago Tour) My fireplace is out and this SHOULD be an easy replacement. I assume I remove the molding on each side and I'll find screws to pull it out????? See pictures for molding I'm talking about.
  10. Yes.... the price I'm quoted for the new A/C from TX custom coach is fair... the labor is about $360 so, to save myself a headache... and let them be responsible for any issues caused by errors.... I'm thinking it may be worth it. I just tested the capacitors I took out using a multi-meter. They seem to NOT be damaged.
  11. Here are the ones I replaced. Obviously no apparent signs of blowing. I will try to test with multi-meter later.
  12. It's a bad day for the Radio Trop Rock bus.... changed the capacitors and we have the exact same issues. I've got a quote from Texas Custom Coach to replace with a new A/C for $1,605. I may have to bite the bullet and just do it. Will keep old A/C for parts. I am getting a quote to see how much extra it would be to go to 15,000 BTU vice the 13,500 BTU..... Any advice on if that is worth it?
  13. I'll check that out tomorrow. I have to shut everything down to work on an A/C anyway.... so that may be a good time to do a visual inside the breaker box.
  14. Good idea.... Dryer unplugged and when I shut off the breaker it showed "brown out" error with one line going down to 7 volts....
  15. yep... another day, another issue. 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42qd - Class A - 50amp I use a Progressive Industries EMS-PT50x Pedestal breaker tripped. Reset breaker. Progressive Industries protector shows no errors and both lines in the 120v range. Once the protector's time delay allowed power to RV everything is working fine... A/C units, stove etc.... (those don't run on inverter so I know power is restored) Problem...… my panels Powerline Energy Management System thinks we have no power? What? A little playing around and I remember my lovely wife turns off the washing machine and the dryer breakers when there is a storm. (washer broken 2x during storm... and it's very expensive to fix because of the labor to get in and out). So, wife turns breakers back on to make sure those still work.... Guess what.... when she hits the dryer breaker to "on" EMS works fine..... Why in the world would the dryer breaker affect the EMS panel? Pictures below of when the dryer breaker is in the "off" position:
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