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Everything posted by eric@babin.com

  1. 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD. I have a saying "Easy Day" which means this.... when something bad happens / something breaks, and you start to think.... oh crap, this will cost a couple hundred bucks to fix (or in some cases thousands) but after a few minutes you've got it fixed for nothing, or almost nothing. Today's example: Exhaust fan's cover opens but fan doesn't come on. Check fuse: It's good. Check switch: It's good (continuity check) Check for voltage at switch: None. Go up on the roof to look for a part number on the other side of the fan and just for giggles I jiggle the ground wire..... fan comes on.... and there you have it.... Just a loose ground wire Sharing this experience to if anyone else has an inop exhaust fan after checking fuse and switch... check ground. Here's the pics: Red arrow pointing at ground wire. This is the top of the fan.
  2. Yes... I use autolevel 100% of the time. Good to know the probably "reason". I was a little worried. Also, I've always thought it raised it too high.... Maybe I'll start doing a manual level. Manual retract. Yes, I was able to retract mine using the exact method you described.
  3. We normally don't sit still for very long so I was never really able to run an experiment to see how much diesel the AquaHot uses to operate furnace heat and water heater. We showed up in Foley Alabama (just north of Gulf Shores / Gulf coast of Alabama) on November 15th. I topped off the diesel tank just prior to parking. Other than exercising generator a couple times and running engine for a few minutes every few weeks, I only used the diesel to operate Aquahot. Here are my findings: Average temperature range in December was 44 - 62, January was 48-63 with a couple of cold snaps that lasted for a few days with lows into the very high 20's and highs in the mid 50's. Number of days: 75 AquaHot "burner" and "electric" on the entire time to heat water and furnace when it was needed. Total fuel usage: 100 gallons. Distance from gas station about 22 miles each way, so about 7 of those gallons were used to drive RV and exercise generator. Estimated AquaHot diesel usage over 75 days 93 gallons. 93 gallons / 75 days = 1.24 gallons per day 1.24 gallons x $3.56 per gallon (today's price 1/31/22) = $4.41 per day That seems like a LOT when added up for the month ($132.00). I can't imagine what it would be in a colder climate! I think I'm going to turn off that burner until I absolutely need it!
  4. Original post updated with the fix! RV tech found it!
  5. Yes.... RV Tech coming to take a look today. I have given up. I hope he has experience with this.... I just hate to spend $200 for him to say, "hmmm..... that's a tough one".
  6. I've tried to reset via the touchpad.... won't do anything except show "low voltage". I've looked through all the obvious breakers and fuses but can't find one that services the levelers. I've checked under the drivers window and in battery compartment. As well as the ones inside under the bed. Made in appt for an RV tech to come out next week... so, would be great if I found it prior to that!
  7. I called Lippert at 432-547-7378. They were very informative...... Everything points to it being a tripped breaker. I've called Winnebago at 800-537-1885 to find out where that darn thing is but they are closed until tomorrow the 4th. Where is this leveler breaker on a 2104 Itasca Ellipse (Winnebago Tour)?????
  8. 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD I got a "low voltage" screen and alarm when retracting jacks today. Jacks partially up now. Can't get "low voltage" fault to clear. I have tried with engine running, in park, and neutral. (as always) Voltage at coach panel shows 14.0 volts on both chasis and engine batteries. I've tried powering everything down and back up. (chassis and house batteries off, then back on) I've tried unplugging lippert panel and back in. Still getting low voltage. I checked 15A inline fuse near pump. It is fine. I can't find any other fuse or breaker. I've looked at breaker and fuse panels under drivers window. I've looked at 12v breakers under bed and near chassis batteries. Where the heck are the fuses / and or breaker(s) for the lippert leveling on a 2014 Itasca Ellipse (Winnebago Tour). I have found the control box which is attached to ceiling of compartment behind driver's door under a rounded box. But can't see any reset there? UPDATE: FIXED: Could not find the high amp fuse so I called in the pros. I gave Ewing Mobile RV Repair in Foley Alabama a call (251-207-5922). I didn't tell him anything I had come up with since there was a good chance I was way off base. He gave Lippert a call, checked some voltages and came to the same thing I came to... must be a fuse... but where is it? He found it. The fuse is pictured below. Strangely enough... the fuse didn't "look" burnt.... but it was. He got a new one at a local auto parts store. Replaced it (which was not easy because of the location / see pic) To help with the location... it was in the driver's side rear compartment, (same as chassis batteries) under the push button breakers, behind 2 removable panels. Total cost: 2 hours labor + service call + parts: $268.50
  9. 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD Tires: Michelin XZA2 ENERGY 295 80R22.5 Position: Front / driver's (steer tire) These tires were put on a little over 2 years ago I just noticed some unusual damage, can't be normal tread wear. The inner portion of the most outside tread looks as if it's been shaved off about 1/8 inch, but only in strips about 2/3 around the tire. Strangely, it's not a continuous cut/shave. It seems to be thin, thick, thin, almost nothing, then same pattern again about 2/3s around the tire. About 1/3 shows no damage. Inspecting the tire and it doesn't seem to have enough damage to be immediately concerned, but I'm going to keep an eye on it. Wondering if anyone can tell me what may cause this? (For one pic I wet the tire to see if that would help see the damage.)
  10. Yes.... I always turn the breaker off prior to plugging in or out. Yes..... same here.
  11. 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD 50amp coach Over a year ago I had some sort of surge that ended up knocking out my ATS. Had the ATS replaced and everything is fine..... However, shortly after I noticed the plug (that plugs into the pedestal) would get hot.... not something you really check for, but when I'd go to unplug is was pretty darn hot.... I began to wonder.... "Was it hot before????" I began using a Progressive EMS-PT50x thinking it was a pedestal problem.... well, the EMS plug never got hot, but my coach plug was still getting hot when plugged into the EMS. A couple days ago unplugging I noticed my plug was cracked and had some melting damage. I ran another test at the next stop... plugged a 50 amp extension into the pedestal and them my plug into the extension.... only my plug was hot.... the extension plug was NOT hot.... My thought, when there was the surge a year ago it damaged one line at the plug causing resistance, thus heating up, causing more damage over time. How to fix? Replace the plug! Here is the replacement... I found a Camco 50 amp plug at a nearby KOA. Home Depot, Lowes, nor Walmart had them in stock. I did order one from Amazon but decided not to wait for that. I'll keep that one as a spare. I found a good Youtube video Here are my instructions, pretty much the same as he shows in the video. Unplug coach. Cut off plug several inches down (to be sure to be past any heat damage) with a hacksaw. Remove black insulation around all wires 3" down. Cut cloth stuff back to same as black insulation. Cut wires to length shown in picture. Green will be the longest, white the shorest. Black and red are the same length between the two. Strip all wires to have 3/4" showing take each plug prong out, one at a time and attached to the appropriate colored wire. wait to replace prong into casing until all prongs are attached. once all prongs are placed in the proper place (use picture) once all are in place, place cover on and put the 3 short screws in and tighten. once cover is on with it's 3 short screws put some sealant at location where you are about to place the holding clamp on. once sealant is there, (be careful not to get sealant up into the plug housing), then place holding clamp and secure with the 2 long screws. Pictures included have tools used. The only thing not in a razor knife used to get wire insulation off and measuring tape. Tools: Hacksaw, wire cutters (lineman plyers), phillips screwdriver, gloves, measuring tape, sealant. Here is the part I used: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-PowerGrip-Replacement-Transform-55255/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=50+amp+plug&qid=1627742980&s=automotive&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRFVSWEpYTEpBRDVMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjgwNDY3OFhXVVJISDc5RzNMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNTYxMTM0SDkyS0RFNDU4N00md2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl ^^Do not use the video on Amazon for reference. That video is for a 30 amp plug. I got it from KOA for $24. Less on Amazon but couldn't way 2 days. Once I had the old plug off I check resistance... the line that was slowly melting over time had a much higher resistance than the other. *****NOTE: Pictures are NOT in order... Yellow plug is the new one, black plug is the old.*****
  12. I've been "full time" traveling going on 5 years now... I've been meaning to put together a binder in case of roadside problems but never got around to it... I've been broken down a few times and it's always very stressful finding the info I need.... FINALLY I am putting one together. So far in the binder I've got my FMCA Roadside Assistance number and contract, Freightliner help number, Cummins help number, Lippert, and Winnebago (I own an Itasca). I've also got engine ESN#, filters and belt part numbers, my tire info, coach dimensions including weight generator info (model #, S/N, oil type, filter info etc) and I've even got the build sheet for all the "RV" related part and serial numbers.... What else may be important... especially in the event of a roadside breakdown (I'm now even going as far as having spare serpintine belt, fuel filter, and separator...... leaning toward carrying a spare tire even!)
  13. Coleman Mach 8 A/C units So I got some foaming no rinse coil cleaner to clean my coils on the units.... I've not cleaned them before, and one unit is about years old, and the other about 6 years old. Took the unit covers off and noticed the coils didn't really look dirty. I use these A/C units daily. Is that normal for them not to be dirty? I cleaned them using the spray cleaner anyway.... I guess maybe there was some dirt in there somewhere?
  14. Last update: They've updated the software and it still doesn't work. Requesting a refund today!
  15. I had some body work that needed to be done to our 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD. I had used Texas Custom Coach located in Pipe Creek Texas in the past for things such as Aqua Hot, A/C, scheduled maintenance etc and they have always done a great job so why not let them do the body/fiberglass and paint work. They began working on my coach the day it arrived, not like some others that have your RV sit for a week or more until they have time to get to it. When I picked up the RV it looked like new. Even knowing exactly where the damage was, I couldn't tell it had ever been wrecked. Best of all, they worked very well with my insurance company so it was a very very easy process. I highly encourage you that if you are within a few days drive of Texas Custom Coach (just NW of San Antonio TX) you set up an appointment to have them complete any work you may need done, and want done right! Also a very positive recommendation for Progressive Insurance. They were perfect throughout this process.
  16. ah... yes... we have that but never use it. So, not sure it'd be a big deal if the Micro-air didn't work with it.
  17. Coach: 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD w/ 3 rooftop Colemans and AquaHot 450D **Will update once they either fix the issue, don't fix the issue, or I get tired of waiting** We were having an issue where our thermostat RVComfort.zc would just stop working... push any button and nothing would happen... not even the background light. We'd have to completely power down everything including batteries to reset it. So, I decided the Micro-Air Easy Touch RV Thermostat might be good for us. I liked it because it allows you to monitor your inside temperature, and adjust from anywhere via your phone using their app. (some models also include outdoor temp via matching up with local weather app but ours did not) This is great if you have pets and leave them in there when you run errands etc) The good: Works via bluetooth if you are in your coach, or wifi if elsewhere. Looks great. VERY easy to install. "Plug and play". The bad: To change zones via the thermostat is difficult. The zone selection numbers are very very tiny, and my fingers are not. I found it easier to grab my phone use change zones that way. HERE IS THE REALLY BAD: The current model does NOT WORK with AquaHot. It is a known problem and they say they are testing a fix right now and we should receive an updated working version soon. We'll see. If I don't have a working replacement by June 1 I guess I'll be asking for a refund and return the unit. Summary: If you don't have AquaHot it's a pretty neat thermostat allowing you to monitor and change your RV thermostat settings from anywhere, as long as you have good wifi at your coach. If you have AquaHot I'd hold off until they figure this thing out. Link to product: https://www.microair.net/products/easytouch-rv-thermostat?variant=32199143555156 Below are pictures of old and new.
  18. I actually added the extension (about 3" because this was the wire I had to cut the damage off of) to that and taped it up. Should be good. Nice eye though!
  19. Update: FIXED! Yes.... I am worried about why the wire burned.... I made sure to test it before putting all the panels back on so I could inspect it when with it on. Replaced the main board and it works perfect. This set of pictures show a better shot of the damaged board and wire. Also pic of new board, new board box showing part number, bad wire fix, and the back panel of the fireplace showing model number. I did have to cut a couple inches off the damaged wire which meant I had to add a couple inches back with a new wire so it would reach the circuit board. I have to say Twin Star had great customer service. They actually called me to tell me they don't have a replacement for the wire but could send a new circuit board. I agreed explaining fixing a wire is easy.... Although the warranty was up, they sent a new blower assembly (first trouble ticket explained in earlier post) and circuit board (this trouble ticket) with only charging me shipping on the blower motor. Total cost of repair: $27.50. Total time: 2 hours.
  20. Update: They replied to my new trouble ticket. They are sending a new circuit board at no cost. Even with no shipping this time! I'll update when I get it and replace.
  21. "It's always something" 2014 Itasca Ellipse 4QD Fireplace:: ClassicFlame 25EF031 GRP https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K75P80A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Purchased on Amazon to replace the original insert. This is the nearest I could find to the original. I started getting an E3 code which means overheat protection has engaged. "Unplug for 30 minutes, plug back in, and test, if it continues, contact customer service". Yes, it continued, so I submitted a trouble ticket to Twin-Star Customer Service: https://www.tsicustomerservice.com/ They got back to me via the trouble ticket pretty quick. They sent a new blower assembly for shipping cost only ($27.50). Not bad since it was out of warranty. Replaced the part.... it did the same thing.... E3 error code.... well, upon closer inspection, I noticed there was a burnt wire connected to what I believe to be a relay. (see pictures). The burnt wire was the hot wire (black) coming in from the plug. Just submitted another trouble ticket.... I guess I need a new circuit board for the insert. I'll update when I can.
  22. updated / edited to show install and final product.
  23. I'm replacing the slide out canopy (awning) cover. Documenting the replacement for reference for the next person that needs to do this. Me: 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD (same as Winnebago Tour) This is specifically for the super slide / full wall slide.... you know the one... 29' give or take. I contacted Winnebago with my VIN and they replied back with part numbers for all my appliances. Winnebago contact:Terry 800-933-7742 / info@winnebagoparts.com He told me Carefree makes the product and I should contact them with the part number he gave me. (see picture below for my coach's part number listing) Carefree contact: 303-469-3324 Cost of part: $320.50 including shipping to TX I used this video to review what I was in store for: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-LEyBqycMY I messed up on putting the holding pin to keep it from spinning out.... yep... this one has it on both sides and I screwed it up on each.... I used this link to figure out how many spins I needed to get the tension back on the springs: https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/documents/Slideout-Cover-Service-Manual.pdf Below are some pictures for reference to include the list of part numbers Winnebago sent me, the sticker on the awning roller bracket with P/N, invoice from Carefree etc. I'll be putting it on in a day or two and will share any additional info that may be helpful. OK.... now for the install of the new cover... I rolled it out flat, then folded it in such a way the two leads that will go into the channels were about the same width apart as the channels (the channel on side of RV, and channel in the roller assembly which was laying on top of the slide). I then rolled the cover so I could place it on a 2x12 sticking off the slide and have my wife simply roll the cover fabric out as I pulled it through the channels. I used a silicone lubricant (see pic) to prep each channel. I can tell you this 29' of channel sliding went much easier than I anticipated.... took maybe 10 minutes if that. Once the fabric was on the in both channels we rolled the excess fabric onto the roller assembly, put it over the edge of the slide and I placed my end into the end cap that was still in place. I secured with the fastening bolt, then went to the other side to place the end cap on, and secure with the bolt. I can tell you I had to make another quarter turn on the spring to get the end to align correctly with the end cap. (used locking pliers to do this.... pull out the pin that prevents the spring from unwinding, turn 1/4 turn, place pin back in... be sure the pin is facing outward or you'll not get the rolling assembly back into the channel) Now the fun part.... we tried to knock out the pins (the pins that are keeping roller / spring from unwinding) at the same time with pliers and a hammer... well, I knocked mine out, but my wife missed hers..... strange.... no big deal.... I went down to her end, knocked it out and wham a lamb a ding dong it tighted up just fine. rotated the cover back up to cover the awning roller assembly, put in the top screw on each side and we're done. Ran a test.... works perfect.... oh, don't forget to put the set screws into the coach side channel... one in front, one in back. Here are the installation pictures.... I also treated the rubber gaskets on coach side and slide side as long as I had the cover off.... used the spray in the pictures. Total time spent: Remove old - almost an hour Treat gaskets and clean slide top, etc - about 30 minutes Install new - Almost an hour Total: 2.5-3.0 hours.... Not bad... remember... this is a 29 foot slide out! I think I could do it again in less than an hour. Difficulty of task.... maybe a 5 out of 10. Total money spent: $320 on parts, zero on labor... Probably would have cost 700-800 to have that done at a shop!
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