chollenback

I have a 1995 Safari Sahara. We drove it all around this summer and even went to Canada with no issues. I parked it about 2 months ago and was scheduled to get it inspected today and it would not go into gear. It has a 6 speed allison transmission. At first I was able to get it to go into reverse and then back to neutral but not into drive. Now when I push on D, R, or N none of the buttons will put it into gear. I stopped and started it again (after leaving it off for a few minutes) to see if I could reset it and no luck. Any idea what is causing this. It worked great the entire year with no issues. Thanks

I did use teflon tape. You may be onto something. I will remove and fire it up this weekend. Never thought that would cause it.

I just drove 4 hours to greensboro and oil pressure switch jumping around like a Mexican jumping bean. I ran a wire from gauge to frame for grounding. I even ran a separate wire from gauge to oil sensor gauge. I thought it was good and then on the way home i was jumping around again. I now think the gauge is shot but the gauge is an older gauge and not digital. These things I heard really do not go bad. Any thoughts?

Rich, it works perfectly now that I re-wired it. Thanks for diagrahm.

I have 1995 Safari Sahara and the oil pressure sensor was flickering from 0psi to 60psi really bad. I changed oil pressure sensor and it still does samething. I am pretty sure it is shorting out. I have one red wire that attaches to oil pressure sensor and I was wondering if I run a wire straight from oil pressure sensor to dash gauge if that will solve problem. I do not want to cause additional damage. Also, any idea what post I should attach it to on the gauge (what should I look for in regards to labeling)? I would rather do this than take all the plastic off of all the wiring and try to find that way. Thoughts?

I was able to get ahold of Onan Customer service tech and he said voltage regulator is bad. I asked, "could voltage regulator test OK but still be bad"? he said yes, the capacitor can impact this. I ordered a new capacitor 220uf 400V to see if this will fix issue. I looked and I do not see where a capacitor can cause a high voltage reading from voltage regulator. Does this sound right? Can capacitor be the issue (capacitor should be here in a week).

Rich, Thanks for info. Do you know if these Onon's have a Potentiometer (you can adjust voltage)? if so, where would that be.

OK guys here are the readings of the VR 305-0809-01-HC-0003441F22 Pins OHMS 5-9 596 7-9 865 10-9 619 11-9 695 12-9 708 10-5 1 (this is correct per the book) 5-11 697 5-12 692 5-3 880 Are these readings OK? It looks like this is OK, but I am no expert. Thoughts?

Maintenacne done about every 250 hours. PN for voltage regulator is 0305-0809-01

Rich, I did a quick search and this is the exact same one I have. http://www.randkproducts.com/used-onan-63-nhefa63753j-lp-generator-p-698.html You can see it is same model as mine but does not appear on any Onan manual as LP. I will post pics when I get home. Thanks

Rich/Manholt, The name plate on outside says Model: 6.3NHEFA63753J Serial Number K943255498, 120V, 52A, LP fuel, 6.3 KW, 1800RPM, 12V. it is propane (I wonder if they switch the covers). I tested the regulator pins per the book and they all were closed except when testing 10-5 pin. This is what the book said that it would be open and read 0 (which it did). I lowered the governor speed to get it 132 Volts and 56Hz but when I turn on A/C and refer it drops to 122 volts and 52HZ. if I put on other A/C it pops automatic transfer switch (I think it does this because of the low voltage). Kaypsmith: The regulator was changed in 2014 and he replaced with a B305???? ( I am not home to get paperwork out to look at P/N). I did see that this Voltage regulator can be rebuilt and was one of the selling points (I guess). I will take pic of VR when I get home. I do recall that it looks like what Rich posted in his link but I have a larger capacitor looking thing on mine (looks like a size of a "D" battery). I see that he kept great records of the upkeep and it has been serviced routinely. I did find out that I can turn the generator on and of inside the RV at the panel but I can only shut it of at the generator and not start it. This appears to be a control board issue. However, everything I read says that this has no bearing on the voltage (it just regulates the oil pressure, fuel, etc.,) Does this help or does it muddy the water :0

I called Onan and they were no help. I did massive research on these things but I am still a little confused as things contradict what I should do. Volts are still high and Hz is at 61.8Hz. I read that Hz can be between 60-63Hz. Not sure if this is right. If it is 60Hz I think it should be the max. Voltage Regulator appears to be working because it keep constant voltage (I assume it is working - if it was not I think I would get wacky voltage jumping all around). Any ideas?

will call Onan. I do not want to fry anything. I will post back what they tell me. Thanks

I went ahead and fired up generator and took readings at all outlets and they all read 154.6V when generator is on. This is way to high. I see that Voltage regulator was replaced in 2014 according to paperwork. I guess regulator is fried but I want to ensure it is not something else and that I prevent this from occurring the next time. Model number is 6.3NHEFA63753J 120 V 52Amps 6.2KW 60Hz/ 1Ph What do I need to do to get this back within specs. Now I know why I was smelling "burning" when it was running. Thanks

Wolfe10. Problem solved!!! On e of the breakers that says washer/dryer or dishwasher when flipped breaks the breaker. I do not have any of those in the RV. I have left it off and all is well. Thanks to ALL of you. Is the 134V that the generator is putting out at idle a concern?

RSbilledWard - I do not blame you for telling me to switch out isolator. I think that was a good call. OK - Sorry for the lack of info. I will do my best to be more complete. Here we go: I have a 1995 Safari Sahara with a 6500W Onan Gas generator with a 50amp plug (I have a tail that takes the 50amp to 30 amp and then to 120V that I plug into my house to power a light and a fan). I am confident that the isolator is working and not causing the issue and this is why: 1. I started RV and I tested alternator at isolator and it read 13.1V at idle. I went to chassis and house batteries and was getting 13.1V (I think this is telling me that it is working correctly since both are getting 13.1V an that is what I got at isolator). 2. I started generator and it took about 10 seconds for it to switch over (longer than usual). Once it switched over I put a meter to an outlet and got 134V with generator idling. I put load on it and it hovered around 126-128V. I started smelling something burning from generator so I turned it off. 3. I then went and tried to plug my 120V cord into my stick built house and it tripped breaker again on my stick built house. It does not matter what plug I try to plug it into my stick built house - it stills pops it. As stated before, I put old isolator back on and I am still having same problem. I hope this helps - Any ideas? Thanks

I will do the Ohms test tonight when I get home. When I plug In reference to "my house breaker tripping" I am refering to my stick built house. Rich I hooked up the old one back up and it kept tripping the stick built house breaker as well. I have a feeling it maybe the automatic transfer switch. The reason I say this is that on way home from Canada wife started generator and turned on A/C to cool it down and I had to stop and start the generator because it would trip something and not turn on A/C. Once A/C came on my wife said that the voltage was over to the right (I have a outlet 120 V monitor and it was pegged over 120V). AFter a few minutes the power settled into the green. I will start generator today as well and see if what voltage is and then i will start coach and see if I get reading of 12V+ at chassis and house batteries. If I get 12V+ at both then that would tell me that isolator is working. Once I start generator I will check voltage at chassis and house batteries as well and see if I get 12V+. If after this I will try to plug back into m stick built house plug and if it works then it may be the ATS. Does this sound like a good plan? When I do Ohms test is there anything I have to do (i.e. plug into stock built house, turn on RV etc.,) Thanks

Hey guys, I went ahead and swapped out my isolator (Model - Power Sure 1202) 3 stud (1 main and 1 alternate battery). It was straight forward (or at least I thought it was. I changed it out becasue it was 25 years old and I was getting some weird things so one of the FMCA members suggested changing it. I turned off all breakers, turned chassis battery off, unplugged from house, turned off invert and turned off chassis power. I changed out isolator (only 5 wires - not to hard). I went ahead and plugged it into my house and it tripped the house breaker over and over again. I can here the transfer switch click and then pop the house breaker. I went ahead and swapped it back to old one and it i doing the same thing (I thought maybe new isolator was bad).I went ahead and turned on inverter and it powered the items I needed. Is there a reset switch somewhere? What am I missing here?

Rich. you were spot on. I had to leave it off. It works perfectly. Thanks a ton!

I drove 1,500 miles to Quebec Canada in my 95 safari sahara and everything was great. I put up and down the leveling jacks with no issues. I noticed on the return trip that my 15 year old son hit the leveling u switch and it as like this for about 400 miles. I got to first stop was ready to put down the levelers an nothing. THe lights are n but they were not going down. I looked for a reset switch and fuse and could not find one. Any ideas? DId I burn out solenoid or something? Any help would be great. Thanks

where can i buy the rubber hoses for the brakes? mine are very hard and cracking on outside. any part numbers?

battery (chassis) is 12.91v and house is (13.87), 12.5V is with everything on. when i turn everything off it stays the same in the voltage gauge. maybe volt gauge is bad? the speedo and tach work great when driving but float when off. i guess i am good then (unless i am missing something) thanks to all

I went back and unplugged all wires under the "Hood" and reinserted them back in after I inspected them. The last white wire I touched was on a relay and I noticed the male part of the relay was on the outside of the female fitting and wedged between the plastic and the relay prong. I attached as it should have been done and the good news is that I can turn on all the lights and the volt gauge does not drop below 12.5 now (yeah). But this still seems low to me. Is this alright with everything on or should it be 14 volts? The Tach and Speedo still "float" after being turned off. I will disassemble and clean as indicated and hope it works. Thanks for all the insight.

I have a 95 safari sahara on a a magnum chassis and I was going to bleed brakes. I see that it looks like the fluid resevoir is linked to power steering and then the 2 lines go from power steering to calipers. If I change brake fluid, will it go not power steering? I am so confused and as usual there is no information on web.

DesertDeal69: How would you reset the Brake light proportional valve?