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We have an '05 Beaver and are taking our cat with us. Can anyone tell me where they might be putting the litter box? There's a table/desk in the corner behind the drivers seat and also a cabinet to the left of the dining table so no corners are available. Thanks Jo Ann

It began as a common problem: cruise control would not latch. Lots of owners have commented about having to cycle their Smartwheel Cruise Control ON/OFF switches before latching can occur. Then, another oddity: turning the dash lights rheostat on would unlatch/disengage the cruise control. Later, the system stopped working entirely. I could, on occasion, get it to engage for brief periods. No single event ever defined the inevitable unlatching, the longest it went without disengaging was a half-hour, during Interstate driving on a recent trip. When I contacted our chassis tech support representative, he said such issues are usually a Caterpillar ECM problem. Since, technically, the failure was an intermittent issue, I suspected the old culprits of corrosion, broken wires or looseness that plague all older chassis. The ECM is connected by two complex multi-pin plugs, in an area prone to spray, dirt. On the 2006 C13, it is located just forward of the fuel filter. The aft of these two plugs, taking in yellow braided wires, handles engine sensors. The smaller attends to other functions, like cruise control. I crawled underneath, used a 1/8" allen key to loosen the smaller of these, sprayed it with electronics cleaner, carefully snugged the plug into place and tightened the hold down screw. Still, no cruise. "It's the chassis ECM, not ours," insisted the Caterpillar shop foreman, when I raised the white flag and called for an appointment. He added that, for no charge, he'd plug in the ECM and prove his point. I hastily agreed, hung up and started driving to Holt Caterpiller of Fort Worth. They are the same folks who replaced all of my intake solenoids, accessing the engine by dismantling the bedroom closet -- they reassembled the doorframe and rehung the doors without leaving a trace -- for less than $1800. To shorten the story, let it suffice to say the computer revealed the "Inactive" status of the cruise control, and the technician could get it latch, but only in the high-idle mode. We agreed to a road trip with me driving and him using the laptop. He threw the switches for Retarder modes, Adaptive Cruise enabling, experimented with some other ideas on the screen while I drove. Eventually, I had cruise control with unlatching anytime the engine brake power was ON or the dash lights were illuminated. For the life of me, I cannot understand the latter, unless it is an inhibit to prevent night use of VORAD, the primative adaptive cruise control with which the original RV was equipped, later decommissioned. Finally, the technician mentioned that my brakes were showing engaged on an intermittent basis. We opened the generator bay and examined the backside of the pedal assembly. Two simple pressure switches are there: the inboard attends to cruise control, the outboard activates the brake lights. I instantly found a wobbly spade connector on the former, and when I crushed the interior slightly and slid it back into place, that line on his screen obediently said "OFF" and remained that way. All the way home -- a trip of forty miles -- the cruise remained engaged. Now, with a long trip to Florida looming, I have the simple luxury of driving with my fingertips!

We have a CAT C9 in our 2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE. We experienced a "Check Engine" light and some rough running while driving in Texas. The ECM told us we had an electrical connection issue on injector #2. The issue was intermittent, with the light coming on sometimes, and staying off at others. We took it to Mustang CAT in El Campo, Texas to get it fixed. After a day and a half of working on, they were not able to find the issue (it would not occur while they had it). They changed the fuel pressure regulator (pressure was a bit low, and the plunger looked a bit worn--after only 43k miles!). They also changed the fuel filter and water separator. $1200+ later, we were on our way....my confidence was not very high that it was actually fixed. Sure enough, a couple hours down the road, the "Check Engine" came back again. We backtracked to another Mustang CAT dealer (in Beaumont, TX)....by the time we got there, the light was out, and it was running fine.....so no repair work was done. The ECM confirmed that it was once again injector #2 that was malfunctioning. Finally, while driving a couple days later in Louisiana, the light and rough running returned. We went to Louisiana CAT in Bossier City. Fortunately, it was running on 5 cylinders when we got there, and the technician was able to capture the event on his laptop. The next day, he found the issue.......the terminal for the #2 injector wire was not securely seated in the electrical connector for the injector wiring harness. The harness was replaced -- the technician (Gary) came in on Saturday to get us back on the road -- and we drove several more days without incident. Kudos to Gary at Louisiana CAT in Bossier City. His experience with CAT engines helped him find and fix the problem. I would take my CAT-powered equipment to these folks any time. I do not have similar praise for the crew at Mustang CAT in El Campo, Texas. They apparently did not have the experience to enable them to find an intermittent electrical issue. As a result, I spent $1200+ dollars at their store and got little for it (regulator and new filters). I would not go back there again. They were not interested in helping with the cost of the real repair in Louisiana.

Hello everyone, I need to know how to test a temperature sensor on my 1995 Beaver Marquis with a CAT 3176B SN 9CK15314. Back story: my cat overheats periodically and i have determined that the hydraulic cooling fan does not switch to HIGH when reaching/exceeding 215 degrees. I know the fan works on high because when i unplug the (two wire) electrical control line going to my hydraulic switching box it immediately goes into the spectacular roar of high mode. This leads me to believe the input signal to the solenoid is missing, enter the temperature sensor. I will include a pic of what and where i believe to be the temp sensor. I need to know what kind of resistance readings I should see from a functional sensor. From what I understand the sensor has two set temps 195 degrees and 215 degrees. there are three pins in the connector presumably one for 195 a second for 215 and one for ground or input voltage not sure. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

This will be Tuffy first time going on vacation with us for 2 1/2 months. He is not liking one bit of it. Our dog don't mind it. We will be rolling with him tomorrow morning so hope he is ready. If you click the picture a few times it will get larger so you can get a better view of him.