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Found 36 results

  1. Greeting RV Gurus/Nerds/Innocent Bystanders. My 2006 Coachman Cross Country SE is having an intermittent electrical issue. When turn the key into the accessory or run position in the ignition, sometimes one particular circuit will energize, other times it will not. The Hydraulic Level System, electric drivers seat, backup camera monitor and Freightliner Computer (both in dash) seem to share the circuit. At times, the hydraulic module lights with flash for a moment then stay dark/circuit stays dead. It’s not a fuse, for sometimes it works. Can’t nail down what may be triggering the intermittent part - temps/load/etc. Your wisdom is appreciated. Need to get this fixed ASAP since we are scheduled for a Thanksgiving trip on Sunday....
  2. Hi, I have a 2003 Safari Cheetah with Caterpillar 330 Engine. I had a problem with the house battery cutoff switch, and the house battery solenoid was replaced. Ordered new switch from Monaco, they sent wrong switch, new correct switch is on the way! In the meantime, now, engine will not turn over, panel lights go on.(except engine heater light.) Also, leveling lights are on. I have checked all fuses, batteries are fully charged, electrolyte is checked, Starter won't crank at all..this all happened after working on the house battery cutoff switch and solenoid was replaced? Is there starter relay or solenoid to check? The wires to the house battery switch are not connected - waiting for the new switch . Need Help!
  3. hoskey

    12 V problems

    I have 12V house current when plugged into 120V and/or with the gen set running, Without 120V, I have no house current. I have talked with Winnebago twice. We thought it was the solenoid. I replaced it yesterday but it didn't solve the problem. Any ideas?
  4. I have a 2007 Itasca Spirit and can't get the generator to start. I am a complete newbie so I am sure I am overlooking something. I checked the salesman switch by the door.I removed the maintenance cover and no power is getting to the on/off switch at the generator. What could I be missing? There is power to the slide but not the lights in the coach. The circuit breaker at the generator appears to be on. If forward is on that is.
  5. I am a new owner of a 2007 Monaco Knight. I was quite surprised when I read the manual and it stated that most of the outlets were powered by the inverter but had no information on which did and which did not. I do notice that some outlets are white and some ivory. Is this a clue? I am going to use the inverter for the first time this weekend and it would be handy to know. Thanks in advance.
  6. Hello everyone! I would like to ask if anyone has any type of technical documentation (electrical, motor, transition, gas, water) from the following RV or something similar please. Made: Safari Model: Continental Year: 1993 Motor: Cummins 6 cylinders Transmition: Allison 6 speed I just recently got the RV and, It is currently in fix however, we are facing an electrical/mechanical problem that needs to be found. That is why the request. Thank you in advance
  7. Hello all and Merry Christmas, Does anyone know a Solar company that gives a FMCA discount? I need a full system, (300-400W) and want to get prices on kits and fully installed price. (I'm in CA) Thanks so much for your help! Synde RT 210V
  8. A friend of mine has a 2004 Holiday Rambler Navigator 45 footer with a Power Cord Reel in the rear corner of drivers side. His power cord reel is not working and he would like to fine the fuse that his schematic says he has. Does anyone know where the fuse might be located? Joe will be grateful for any help. Herman
  9. A friend of mine has a 2004 Holiday Rambler Navigator 45 footer with a Power Cord Reel in the rear corner of drivers side. His power cord reel is not working and he would like to fine the fuse that his schematic says he has. Does anyone know where the fuse might be located? Joe will be grateful for any help. Herman
  10. I have 2001 Safari Zanzibar with a ACME dash a/c unit and it seems like it is not putting out very much air when heating or a/c. I removed the blower and tested all the speeds and it worked fine. I saw that the damper arm was opening by watching the damper arm on side of unit next to blower motor. I crawled under the front of motorhome to check if air intake was plugged it seemed ok and the damper was opened. I can feel little air on the drivers side vents and little on passenger. When I turned on foot vents a lot of air came out but those are small vents. Very little air on defrost. Is this how these work. 77000 miles . Looks like blower fan has been replaced. Looks like it has three dampers on this unit. What is the likely hood of one of those not opening. New owner. Thanks Troy
  11. When I plug the motorhome into 120 volt garage plug electrical system I get 2 green leds and 1 Red led with the notice 1 leg open and neutral crossed. There is no power the the system inside the coach. What do I need to do to correct this. I started the generator and the electrical system worked just fine and the coach worked fine last weekend at the campground during a rally ? Michael
  12. Hello, had a CEL yesterday, and brought my Mercedes Benz to the dealership for a scan.. turns out that it was bad glow plugs at only 28,000 miles. I acquired this vehicle at 26,000 and the dealership said it was the first time they ever saw a vehicle with such few miles and this problem. Glow plug # 4 went bad, but I figured that it would not be long before the others failed as well, so, for an extra hour of labor, they replaced all six .. one would have been a minimum of two hours labor, so 3 hours for all six seemed reasonable. My question is whether it's possible if the original owners didn't follow the two step starting procedure, could this have prematurely worn out the glow plugs. What's the average time or mileage for these item? Also, with a modern diesel engine like the Mercedes Benz 3 litre V6, having a failed glow plugs would affect engine performance and fuel economy?
  13. We have a CAT C9 in our 2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE. We experienced a "Check Engine" light and some rough running while driving in Texas. The ECM told us we had an electrical connection issue on injector #2. The issue was intermittent, with the light coming on sometimes, and staying off at others. We took it to Mustang CAT in El Campo, Texas to get it fixed. After a day and a half of working on, they were not able to find the issue (it would not occur while they had it). They changed the fuel pressure regulator (pressure was a bit low, and the plunger looked a bit worn--after only 43k miles!). They also changed the fuel filter and water separator. $1200+ later, we were on our way....my confidence was not very high that it was actually fixed. Sure enough, a couple hours down the road, the "Check Engine" came back again. We backtracked to another Mustang CAT dealer (in Beaumont, TX)....by the time we got there, the light was out, and it was running fine.....so no repair work was done. The ECM confirmed that it was once again injector #2 that was malfunctioning. Finally, while driving a couple days later in Louisiana, the light and rough running returned. We went to Louisiana CAT in Bossier City. Fortunately, it was running on 5 cylinders when we got there, and the technician was able to capture the event on his laptop. The next day, he found the issue.......the terminal for the #2 injector wire was not securely seated in the electrical connector for the injector wiring harness. The harness was replaced -- the technician (Gary) came in on Saturday to get us back on the road -- and we drove several more days without incident. Kudos to Gary at Louisiana CAT in Bossier City. His experience with CAT engines helped him find and fix the problem. I would take my CAT-powered equipment to these folks any time. I do not have similar praise for the crew at Mustang CAT in El Campo, Texas. They apparently did not have the experience to enable them to find an intermittent electrical issue. As a result, I spent $1200+ dollars at their store and got little for it (regulator and new filters). I would not go back there again. They were not interested in helping with the cost of the real repair in Louisiana.
  14. We own a 2000 Pace Arrow V-10 that needs to last us until we retire from motorhoming, a lifestyle we began in 1978. This is our third unit. My technican cannot locate the cause of a "check engine" light. None of the codes he tries will clear the problem. This is the second such instance, with another wire, occurring a year or more apart. He says it will be necessary to trace EVERY wire in the harness to locate what he feels is a short, and then run a redundant wire to fix the issue. He estimates a cost of $500-$1500 for this fix. I seldom see a fix come in on the low end. Resetting the light is temporary. I don't want to drive the unit with an active code and risk damaging the engine or exhaust system. Can anyone provide me with some alternatives that may resolve this problem?
  15. glsponchos

    Road Light

    I have a 2010 Allegro Bus 43QGP. On the main switch console, on the left as you enter the coach, there is a button on the bottom right that says road light. I can't figure out what it does. The manual refers to it, but doesn't explain. My dealer service dept. didn't know either. Any ideas ?
  16. 1999 Harney Renegade (Class A) Diesel pusher, Allison 6 speed Transmission (Cat Engine) This coach was later manufactured by Safari for a short period. Went out to take the coach for exercise. Generator started but would not supply power to the coach. With shore power plugged in, engine would not turn over. Forward AC would not start and refrigerator was completely dead. Aft AC is OK. Furnace would not start from forward Thermostat, but would from the rear thermostat. Found I could start the engine by turning on the ignition switch and using the start feature at the rear service panel . Once the engine started, the "check engine lite" and the "do not shift" lite remained illuminated. Checking the automatic Transfer switch I was able to determine power was available to the switch both from shore power and from the Generator, did not know where to check the output. Once the engine started the kwikee entrance steps retracted and will not extend. I attempted to have the coach towed to the shop but the Tow Truck as so enormous they couldn't maneuver in the subdivision. The Allison push button control panel has all the LED segments of the indicator lit, and they stay lit even when ignition switch is off. After consulting with the shop, they said it would be OK to put the tranny in gear and move the coach enough to position to suit the tow truck, when we tried the coach would not go into gear. I really need to get the coach into gear.
  17. I need to replace my Magnum inverter. It is a modified sine wave inverter 2000 W . What are the pros & cons of upgrading to a more expensive model type of the sine wave type? In other words should I stick with modified sine inverter or go for a pure sine wave inverter? I have all the usual rv electronics, tvs, computer, cell phone chargers, microwave convection oven.
  18. The following link has extensive information on parts and materials used in a number of Fleetwood Coaches. The Class A thread is the only one that it appeared appropriate in. Hope it proves helpful when looking for items like Electrical, Mechanical, Entertainment, Plumbing, interior and exterior needs. With its menu and sub menus. There are pictures and part numbers for a number of items. It also lists items that are no long available. http://fwc.fleetwoodrv.com/plant91Files/06%20Fleetwood%20Parts%20Listing.htm Rich. NOTE ! To open the links (Click Hear) you will need Excel program to open the spread sheets listing the part(s) information.
  19. I have a Heart Freedom 20 (2000 watt) inverter in my 1995 Safari Serengeti motorhome. It was more trouble than it was worth and I left it off mostly all the time. Several years ago it quit inverting but still functioned as a converter until recently when that failed also. I don't really want to replace it with another inverter. Can I have it replaced with a converter?
  20. I was wondering if while hooked up to 50 Amp service and my 2011 Fleetwood Discovery 40G reads 30 Amps, if it will hurt anything or just limit what all I can run in the coach? I checked the 50 amp plug at the box which is a standard 4 post (X,Y,W, &G) plug, but it looks like the electrician wired it with 120 coming off of either L1 or L2 but not both because I see zero (0) volts across X and Y with my voltmeter. I see 120 Volts between X and W and Y and W and X and G and Y and G and zero (0) between W and G. Since it looks like the 120 is coming from the same side, which means the phases will not be balanced, is that a fire hazard on the coach side or the park's side? Also I would be curious as to why someone would wire a 50 Amp service in this manner? Does it save money somehow? I checked the feeds coming into the bottom of the power box and there are 4 wires coming in and 4 going out, so they did not jump the poles in RV service box, which must mean they did it at the main circuit box. Thanks!
  21. I have a 2003 Endeavor with the problem of the EMS DISPLAY PANEL goes out at times. Then comes back after some time-- some times 4 hrs. Then again longer. What do I do or what steps do I take? Any ideals? Thanks for any help I can get. ****
  22. Have 40' ft diesel pusher (2001 Monaco) w 2 ac's. One AC (front) works fine during the day and we turn it off at night. The other AC (rear) comes on at night and works until early morning (around 7), then shuts off and will not come on again until night. Had it checked and they say it is fine. Both AC's are left on auto at 69. Any suggestions?
  23. Vehicle: 2003 Holiday Rambler Ambassador. Last night we had a huge rain storm while parked at our RV park. Our lights went out and I thought we lost power, but the fan and printer were still on. We figured out that none of our lights work, nor the hot water heater or air conditioning. However, the outlets, TV, microwave, and fridge work. We have tried resetting everything and putting in new light bulbs, but nothing seems to be fixing the issue. Nothing is lit up on the power board. Any suggestions to fix this strange electrical problem?
  24. I am new to RVing and own a 2012 Itasca Sunstar 30' 30 amp. Soon after I buying our RV, I purchased a 30 amp surge protector and have used it consistently. I have stayed in many private and public campgrounds with no power problems. But recently I was staying at an private campground which I have stayed at three times before. It was warm (85) and was running the AC. Then the microwave started chirping (display light went off and on) and the AC stated flipping off and on. This lasted about 3-5 seconds and then everything returned to normal. I turned off the AC as soon as I could and then waited for a few minutes before I restarted the AC. I didn't have another episode until the next day with a similar pattern. It once happened in the morning without running any AC or heavy electrical devices. I tested the power with a volt meter but it showed between 116-120 volts. I could never capture the voltage reading during one of these episodes though. The surge protector never tripped during these conditions. I even took the RV into a dealer and had them check over my 120v systems and they ran the AC for four hours without incident. I then asked for a different site which had both 50 and 30 amp power but I still had these once a day problems. My question is - was I experiencing a low voltage condition that was not low enough to trip the surge protector? What are the symptoms of a low voltage condition? What else could I do to protect my RV from electrical issues?
  25. I was pulling out my hair, suffering sporatic blown flasher fuses, on a recent trip. Then, the flasher unit itself failed. It was a maiden voyage with our new-to-us Patriot Thunder, our guests rolled their eyes every time I slid open the window to signal with my arm, got honked at, pulled into a truck stop to change yet another set of fuses. Finally, I unplugged the dolly lights and didn't blow another fuse. Today, after three hours of diagnostics and disassembling the dolly electrical system, I finally spotted the culprit: two tiny bites on a pair of wires going through a brand-new finder to the light assembly bolted to the outside. Yes, after catastrophic blowouts on BOTH sides of the dolly due to inferior OEM tires, I had to install new fenders. They arrive prewired, are simply mounted and plugged in. Turns out, at the factory the person who installed the lights put so much pressure on the wiring where it passes through the 1/4" hole that the insulation was severed inside of 2,000 miles of use. Of course, none of the pass-throughs are engineered with a 20 cent rubber grommet to protect the wiring; so, this kind of failure was bound to be repeated, had I not wrapped the wires in thick rubber tape. It seems dollies are designed to sell, rather than to last.
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