This is a update of the clogged toilet line I posted from Spearfish, SD. The rear toilet began flushing through the roof vent and down the driver side of the coach instead of the black tank. After flushing the black tank and thinking all is well and cleaning up the coach then wife flushes the rear toilet. What a mess so I call a mobile mechanic.
In the meantime I call Entegra CS and ask the representative what to do. He told me that it has to be snaked from the roof through the vent to the tank. When the RV mechanic arrive he wasn't having any of that. He told me he wasn't a plumber to go into the pipes. He told me that he can only plug off the 1 ½ vent to plunge and flush the clog out. It didn't work and I only had to pay a service charge. Since RV tech don't work on plumbing I called several plumbers and guess what plumbers don't work on RV. That pretty much had me stuck with on figuring out how to unplug it myself.
I called Entegra CS the next day and got them to email me the diagram of the drain plumbing for the rear toilet. It basically looked like a upside down T with the vent running between the bathroom and bedroom with about a six foot pipe coming from the toilet. Also had a longer pipe that goes to the black tank. Because of the clog these pipes was full to the roof line with sewage. There was no taking the toilet out to clean because all of that nasty would end up in the bathroom.
With the rear toilet off limits we went ahead to Gillette, WY FMCA rally. I will tackle the problem when we get home. The first thing I found is the snakes I had was too short. I would need a 25 footer minimum to get the job done. I picked up a hand crank ¼ x 25 snake at ACE hardware. With it I able to pull a little TP out of the clog 20 feet out but not able to break it loose. After much trying the cable started to kink so I had to quit as it wasn't going any further. Again I went to ACE hardware and picked up a bottle of rid-x made to desolve TP. I had to wait 24 hours for it to work after adding it. At least I get to install the bling I got at Gillette.
The next day I tried plunging the clog from the roof followed with 20 feet of snake. No joy so I have to try something different. I then went to Harbor Freight and picked up a electric hand held snake. The cable was a little stronger and with a bigger corkscrew on the end. It was made for 1 to 2 inch pipe. I tried it a few times and pulled plugs of TP out a few times and pushed the clog until I ran out of cable. At this point I was getting frustrated.
The last thing I tried had a big risk involved. The pipes was full of sewage to the roof. The toilet had to have a check valve to prevent back flow. I already tried to plunge the pipes from the roof. I had a bladder that gets hooked on the end of a garden hose and water pressure should push the clog the rest of the way. It works from 1 ½ to 3 inch pipes. The bladder expands inside the pipe to hold it in place as water put pressure against the clog. The question was if the check valve was strong enough? I decided to test it first. I set it up and turn the water for 10 seconds. That did nothing but at least no water came into the toilet except a little that was in there before. Then next time I decided to do it for 20 seconds and right before the time was up I hear a whoosh sound from the rear bathroom. I quickly turned the water off and ran inside.
I expected to see the the rear bath flooded and was surprise to find no water anywhere including inside the toilet. I check the black tank level and found it went from 0 to 11 percent. I filled the toilet near the top and gave it a complete flush and it all water went out to the black tank. The tank level went from 11 to 18 percent. No damage done.
In summery, the rear toilet flushes down a long 1 ½ inch black PVC pipe. It can't handle very much TP at once or it will clog.